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Old 06-28-2014, 07:16 PM   #11
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Yes normal, breaker was able to take inrush current but after running a while at above breaker rating it will trip.....
Fonzie, your correct but if it is tripping as stated running then the breaker itself is just weak and needs replacement, or as stated the wire is loose at the lug which will cause it to heat up and trip. (9 out of 10 times it is just a bad breaker. This is what I concluded by the op statements. That's a cheap way to start and 90% of the time is the problem. remember that the A/C will only pull about 12.5 amps full loaded and another 1.5 for the fan motor. On start up it would be cold but gain heat during running. Just my stupid opinion.....
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Old 06-28-2014, 07:56 PM   #12
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Fonzie, your correct but if it is tripping as stated running then the breaker itself is just weak and needs replacement, or as stated the wire is loose at the lug which will cause it to heat up and trip. (9 out of 10 times it is just a bad breaker. This is what I concluded by the op statements. That's a cheap way to start and 90% of the time is the problem. remember that the A/C will only pull about 12.5 amps full loaded and another 1.5 for the fan motor. On start up it would be cold but gain heat during running. Just my stupid opinion.....
Yes you are correct, but if he had low voltage current could be more than the 12.5 amps, could be closer to 15 to 17 amps if voltage is below 105 volts....until someone actually test voltage and amps consumption when running AC, were just assuming.
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Old 06-29-2014, 06:02 AM   #13
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Yes you are correct, but if he had low voltage current could be more than the 12.5 amps, could be closer to 15 to 17 amps if voltage is below 105 volts....until someone actually test voltage and amps consumption when running AC, were just assuming.
Yes you are correct again, that is the reason I asked in post #5 what his voltage and running amps where. But some people do not have an amp pro to take that reading, that is why I stated. To start with I would go the cheapest way and replace the breaker.
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Old 07-01-2014, 01:32 PM   #14
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EMS-HW30C is the answer to all your problems.
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Old 07-01-2014, 02:42 PM   #15
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EMS-HW30C is the answer to all your problems.
Harry what is that you are talking about?
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Old 07-01-2014, 02:51 PM   #16
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If it does not trip on startup within say a minute (normally low voltage at the pedestal) and runs for a while and just opens the breaker; then it has to be a high resistance connection most likely at the breaker or at the AC.

This can be very dangerous to continue to use due to the high chance of fire.
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Old 07-01-2014, 04:03 PM   #17
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If it does not trip on startup within say a minute (normally low voltage at the pedestal) and runs for a while and just opens the breaker; then it has to be a high resistance connection most likely at the breaker or at the AC.

This can be very dangerous to continue to use due to the high chance of fire.
That picture is a bad breaker or loss connection at it. The op will not be able to repair it safely with out knowing the amps it's drawing. That is always where you start, the rest is just pure injection without knowing that amp draw.
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Old 07-01-2014, 04:07 PM   #18
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That picture is a bad breaker or loss connection at it.
Yes, exactly. The loose connection causes heat; which causes oxidation; which increases resistance; which drops voltage; which increases amperage; which increases heat; which increases oxidation; which increases resistance; which drops voltage further; which increases amperage; which increases heat;

FIRE~
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Old 07-01-2014, 04:18 PM   #19
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Harry what is that you are talking about?
Google is a wonderful tool, Glenn!
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Old 07-01-2014, 04:19 PM   #20
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