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Old 06-27-2014, 11:10 PM   #1
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AC kickin the breaker

My AC in my UL275 runs flawlessly off my genny and even when I have multiple other appliances running. I was plugged into a power pedestal at the campground this past week and the AC kicked the breaker in the first minute and probably 20 more times in the 5 days I stayed. I've heard I need to plug my 30 amp into the 50 amp side due to low amps from the power pedestals. Is this a viable solution and is that even the likely cause. I'm am electrically illiterate so any comment is appreciated.
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Old 06-28-2014, 03:35 AM   #2
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Frist of all which breaker was tripping? If it was the pedestal, It probably more then likely a weak 30 amp at the CG. Yes you could have plugged into the 50 amp. Those are used a lot less then the 30's. So they hold better. Remember even through you are plugged into a 50 the limiting factor is your 30 amp breaker in the unit. I do it all the time and prefer to do it being the 50's always look new compared to the 30's. The more a breaker is turned off and on the weaker it gets and will trip eailer. It is not low amps it's a bad breaker. heat is what causes them to trip....
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Old 06-28-2014, 09:08 AM   #3
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It was the AC circuit in my trailer, thanks for your reply
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Old 06-28-2014, 09:37 AM   #4
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It was the AC circuit in my trailer, thanks for your reply
I had the same problem when it was new, I replaced that breaker and it never tripped again. Breaker cost about 12.00 or so. Start there. If you have a amp meter put it on when it starts. see what amps your pulling, let me know and I might be able to help you. Also make sure the wires are tight at the breaker. Don't trust anything FR will do. The only thing that can do that is if your pulling to many amps at start up or the breaker is bad and heating up. if that is the cause we may need to put on a hard start kit to get you out of the start wind faster.
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Old 06-28-2014, 09:41 AM   #5
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I had the same problem when it was new, I replaced that breaker and it never tripped again. Breaker cost about 12.00 or so. Start there.
X2 or the voltage was low at the campground. Low voltage will equal in an increase in current for AC motor to run.
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Old 06-28-2014, 09:50 AM   #6
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X2 or the voltage was low at the campground. Low voltage will equal in an increase in current for AC motor to run.
Ah! a person who understands voltage and breakers.....
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Old 06-28-2014, 09:53 AM   #7
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1st thing I do is check the power pole. Does it look like the 30amp is over used? Discolored? Is there a 50amp avail? Discolored? Do you carry a 50 to 30amp connector? After the initial plug in then I plug a simple voltage meter into a receptacle inside, if necessary then into the 20amp receptacle at the pole. I leave the simple volt meter plugged in inside throughout the stay, just to monitor. During a family reunion at a state park the television was acting up. Didn't do it the first two days but as more RVs came in (my side) the less voltage was available (90vac). Yes we had to leave. Better safe then sorry.
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Old 06-28-2014, 09:55 AM   #8
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You can plug a meter into an outlet and check the voltage during AC startup also. If voltage is good (min of 104v, and that's iffy) would replace breaker as mentioned earlier. I think my EMS cuts power to trailer at 104v.
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Old 06-28-2014, 10:51 AM   #9
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Wow thanks for all the responses. Weird thing though is it didn't do it on start up, just when it was running and just shut off.
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Old 06-28-2014, 10:55 AM   #10
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Yes normal, breaker was able to take inrush current but after running a while at above breaker rating it will trip.....
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Old 06-28-2014, 06:16 PM   #11
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Yes normal, breaker was able to take inrush current but after running a while at above breaker rating it will trip.....
Fonzie, your correct but if it is tripping as stated running then the breaker itself is just weak and needs replacement, or as stated the wire is loose at the lug which will cause it to heat up and trip. (9 out of 10 times it is just a bad breaker. This is what I concluded by the op statements. That's a cheap way to start and 90% of the time is the problem. remember that the A/C will only pull about 12.5 amps full loaded and another 1.5 for the fan motor. On start up it would be cold but gain heat during running. Just my stupid opinion.....
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Old 06-28-2014, 06:56 PM   #12
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Fonzie, your correct but if it is tripping as stated running then the breaker itself is just weak and needs replacement, or as stated the wire is loose at the lug which will cause it to heat up and trip. (9 out of 10 times it is just a bad breaker. This is what I concluded by the op statements. That's a cheap way to start and 90% of the time is the problem. remember that the A/C will only pull about 12.5 amps full loaded and another 1.5 for the fan motor. On start up it would be cold but gain heat during running. Just my stupid opinion.....
Yes you are correct, but if he had low voltage current could be more than the 12.5 amps, could be closer to 15 to 17 amps if voltage is below 105 volts....until someone actually test voltage and amps consumption when running AC, were just assuming.
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Old 06-29-2014, 05:02 AM   #13
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Yes you are correct, but if he had low voltage current could be more than the 12.5 amps, could be closer to 15 to 17 amps if voltage is below 105 volts....until someone actually test voltage and amps consumption when running AC, were just assuming.
Yes you are correct again, that is the reason I asked in post #5 what his voltage and running amps where. But some people do not have an amp pro to take that reading, that is why I stated. To start with I would go the cheapest way and replace the breaker.
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Old 07-01-2014, 12:32 PM   #14
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EMS-HW30C is the answer to all your problems.
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Old 07-01-2014, 01:42 PM   #15
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EMS-HW30C is the answer to all your problems.
Harry what is that you are talking about?
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Old 07-01-2014, 01:51 PM   #16
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If it does not trip on startup within say a minute (normally low voltage at the pedestal) and runs for a while and just opens the breaker; then it has to be a high resistance connection most likely at the breaker or at the AC.

This can be very dangerous to continue to use due to the high chance of fire.
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Old 07-01-2014, 03:03 PM   #17
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If it does not trip on startup within say a minute (normally low voltage at the pedestal) and runs for a while and just opens the breaker; then it has to be a high resistance connection most likely at the breaker or at the AC.

This can be very dangerous to continue to use due to the high chance of fire.
That picture is a bad breaker or loss connection at it. The op will not be able to repair it safely with out knowing the amps it's drawing. That is always where you start, the rest is just pure injection without knowing that amp draw.
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Old 07-01-2014, 03:07 PM   #18
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That picture is a bad breaker or loss connection at it.
Yes, exactly. The loose connection causes heat; which causes oxidation; which increases resistance; which drops voltage; which increases amperage; which increases heat; which increases oxidation; which increases resistance; which drops voltage further; which increases amperage; which increases heat;

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Old 07-01-2014, 03:18 PM   #19
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Harry what is that you are talking about?
Google is a wonderful tool, Glenn!
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Old 07-01-2014, 03:19 PM   #20
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