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Old 03-28-2013, 02:26 AM   #21
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What kind of $$$$ did you have to give for all the upgrades (personal I know just curious)

How did they do the extra insulation in the walls? Did they add exterior foam or something?

You will be cooking with the ramp down so probably no need to have an AC in there. We camp in Eastern Oregon two summers ago it got to 111 so that is when I decided to get the extra AC..LOL....

Electric awning is nice.

I added ramp supports



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Old 03-28-2013, 03:04 AM   #22
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Very nice, I thought about doing that for the gate support as well. The rear gates no longer use the cable assist so I chose to keep it clean there. I have made a cross support that has 2 screw type camper jacks attached to adjust to uneven terrain, I may wind up doing what you have still, that is a work in progress.

On the sidewalls they use a bubble wrap looking product, rather thin that attaches to the inside of the exterior wall and then the put the interior walls on. I was at the plant and got a good look at it, it is visible looking in by the catch plate for the door but that is the only place I have been able to see it. It has fiberglass in the roof and the spray underneath as I mentioned earlier. I can't remember the r value, it wasn't real good but it is an air space and everything helps. With the insulation and the double pain windows it is extremely resistant to outside noise, I like that. I was tinkering tonight and had the stereo cranking a bit, went outside and closed the door and you could not here it, so that is a plus.

The pricing was an ever changing scenario. The dealer, although slack was a price cutter as he knew he was never touching the trailer, he was basically a broker so he cut it very thin. I added retail over 9k in add on's which with all things added in put the trailer in the "lot sticker" range of 38k, I went out the door with tax, tag etc just under 27k. I was happy and he was happy, it has gotten him alot of attention and he has never seen it lol. I even find things that the factory just did, I noticed today that they put the rear drag bars on that keep the bottom of the trailer from hitting, they drag first. It is an option, I didn't order them, didn't pay for them and they are on it, just an added bonus I guess !!!
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Old 03-28-2013, 03:16 AM   #23
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So what are they using on the ramp spring hinges? Another thing I did not know..lol....

That is a pretty good price for all the upgrades you got.

So it sounds like they use the bubble wrap insulation between the FRS and the interior wall covering?
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Old 03-28-2013, 03:31 AM   #24
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Here is some extra work for you. I spent about 12 hours bright polishing the roof caps and fenders.. Gives it a great look.






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Old 03-28-2013, 03:46 AM   #25
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That is what they are doing on the insulation, you lose about a 1/2" of interior space as I would say it is roughly 1/4 inch thick on all sides.

They are not really spring hinges, they have a bar and collar type setup for the hinges and then in between each of those there are heavy wound coil springs that one end rest against the trailer and the other the ramp door and it assists in the weight lifting and dropping. I really like the cables not being there, I have that type door on my car mate trailer and I have ran into those more than I like to remember.

Yes they priced me real well. I am in Florida and things are bad here as far as the economy goes and what dealers are left know that to survive they have to be on their game as the days of retail are long gone. I also saved quite a bit picking it up myself. It was about $600 in fuel for me to go get it, but if I would have had it brought here it was $2200 from the transport company so my wife and I just planned a 4 day weekend get away and picked it up, it was about a 2400 mile round trip.

How are you caring for your wheel bearings?? I have read quite a bit and am thinking of using mobil 1 grease in these. I have used just conventional wheel bearing grease in all my others but now the cost for the mobil 1 is down and everyone says once a year is sufficient with the synthetic grease and they will take more heat. I put quite a few miles on my trailers, average about 10k a year normal. Next year will be more as we are planning a trip to Alaska, that was part of the new trailer this year, get it all shook out and spend 4 weeks next summer on an Alaska adventure , it has been on my wife and my list for sometime and it looks like we are finally going to pull it off. Even have the center awning support on so the awning doesn't collapse half way across Alaska like our friends did !!!
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Old 03-28-2013, 04:36 AM   #26
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Yes, I was backing my Harley down once and I hooked a handle bar on one of those cables. Took some fancy foot work to get the bike rolling back up the ramp to get it unhooked.

I live in Oregon and we were searching for the best price on a 30WR and I found one in Fort Worth TX. They gave me a great price and the next day we loaded up the back of the truck, put the Harley in a Uhaul and headed for Fort Worth. We took about 3 days to get there and 3 weeks to get home...

As far as the wheel bearings go. I just follow the Dexter guidelines on the EZlube axles. The first time I added greast to the Zerk fitting it took about 30 pumps before I would see the grease start to come back. They dont' put much in there from the factory. About 5k miles later I pulled the wheels and checked the seals all were good. Gave the zerks a couple more squirts. Before our first trip this year I will pull the bearing out and check then, hand lube them and put in new seals..
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Old 03-28-2013, 04:33 PM   #27
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Well, the price is not black vs white, the black trailer in stock was brought in last fall when the Canadian dollar was a little stronger than the U.S. That has changed now, there is about a 4% difference now with the U.S. dollar a little stronger plus they say that Forest River has had a 3% price increase and the freight has gone up. I have no cover that i can put it in but the sun is not near as strong here in Atlantic canada. Talked to a few of the local fiberglas shops and they said if i keep it waxed it should not fade.
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Old 03-28-2013, 04:43 PM   #28
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What did you use to polish the roof caps etc, looks great. Nice trailer.
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Old 03-28-2013, 06:35 PM   #29
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I used a 3" foam pad with a angle drill. I also started with Mothers Polish and ended up with Truck Box Polish which is sold by Lowes in 8oz bottles. The Truck Box Polish is more liquid than Mothers and cost a little less. You will need several foam pads. It's messy as the polish has a chemcial reaction to the aluminum turning black. You can get the pads from a automotive paint shop. I know there are other polishes out there. The Airstream guys use something totally different.
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Old 03-28-2013, 07:57 PM   #30
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I did my last year by hand, i know all about the black, took me a week to get it off my hands and went through a pile of rags. I have a mothers rotary buffer, that might do it with a bunch of pads. Looks so good when it is that shiny.
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