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Old 03-10-2008, 11:45 AM   #1
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Question Cabinets

I want to install some Cabinets on the wall of my Work and Play ( in the Garage ), but I have no idea what the Construction is or if there are uprights to pick up on..........anyone offer some advice??

Thanks
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Old 03-14-2008, 07:29 PM   #2
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I am going to have a similar problem when we pick up our new XLR. When we toured the factory we were told the construction is the same 16" spacing as home construction. To verify call the factory we have found them to be very heplfull.

Also try a stud finder. I am not sure how they work on aluminum studs though.
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Old 03-14-2008, 10:12 PM   #3
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A stud finder works the same on metal as it does on wood. Tap on the wall, move left or right with each tap you will hear change in the sound, when you hear more of a solid sound then place the stud finder on the wall at that point and slide it in the same direction holding the button down, when the light indicator moves up and stops you have just found the very edge of the stud, at this point do not remove the stud finder release the button and then depress again, slide the stud finder again in the same direction as the light indicator moves up and stops you have just found the center of the stud and if you follow the same steps one more time you will find the other edge of the stud. I hope this help..... good luck. By the way, the stud finder will also detect a cross members or a support between studs, so by tapping you can pick up a hollow spot in the wall.
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Old 06-21-2010, 09:59 PM   #4
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I would also like to install cabinet in my 34rl work and play. I was told that the work and play trailers have a different wall design than the other trailer. Fiberglass laminated to 3/4 plywood. , but I am not sure what the inside of the outer walls have and what size screws to use. I don't plan on putting much weight in them, But I don't want them to fall off either. I have called work and play, and still have not heard back from them.
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Old 06-21-2010, 10:26 PM   #5
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I have an 18LT, and the walls are 3/4 in plywood, with a fiberglass outer shell. I got special screws from Forrest River to add a television mount to mine. These were black, rubber covered nuts actually, that when you drill through the wall, these go on the outside and make a water tight seal. I also used sealer on them for extra measure. On my Work and play, only the interior walls have wooden studs, and the ceiling has metal studs. You can verify this by looking at the wall at the side vents. The plywood should be visible. You will also notice there are any electrical outlets on the outer walls, hence no wiring or other obstructions to worry about.

One other note, I drilled a small hole from the inside out where I wanted to mount my television, then went outside and drilled the correct size from the outside in. Be careful when you get to the outer layer of fiberglass, and don't bust it. Use a sharp/new drill bit.
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Old 06-21-2010, 10:35 PM   #6
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I don't know if I like the idea of bolting though the walls?
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Old 06-22-2010, 08:09 AM   #7
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If you'll take a visit to a dealership and look at them, you'll see almost everything attached to an outer wall is bolted through. I didn't really like it either, but saw no other options. An email to Forrest River and I had the proper screws and nuts on the way at no charge, with a blessing from them that this was the correct thing to do.
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Old 06-22-2010, 08:32 AM   #8
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I think thats a good idea to bolt right through even with the hole it creates. I have recently had a couple of items fly out of an unsecured cupboard door in our trailer.
I can only imagine a whole cabinet falling down which was not secured enough.
I am installing some shelving this week on an inside wall, where we had a shower. (So bolts are not an option.
My dad is helping me as he did a school bus to rev conversion in the 1970's and has lots of experience, and some pretty strong ideas about materials to use etc. I think we will be making the unit "free standing" so to speak, and then attaching it to the existing wall with liquid nails or something. I will post pictures when done.
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Old 06-22-2010, 08:55 AM   #9
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thanks all , sounds like bolting though is a must.

ladywendolyn....liquid nails(pl400,etc) is a very good idea. I seen one post in the forum where they were going to us Gorila glue! not a good idea, as it is not moisture proof.
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Old 06-22-2010, 09:04 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Albertan View Post
thanks all , sounds like bolting though is a must.

ladywendolyn....liquid nails(pl400,etc) is a very good idea. I seen one post in the forum where they were going to us Gorila glue! not a good idea, as it is not moisture proof.
If I recall the post, he suggested to use the glue to secure the anchor inside the wall. If there is water in there, the falling item will be the least of your worries.
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Old 06-22-2010, 09:20 AM   #11
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HAHAHA your right Herk. but were they not putting in a cabinet in the washroom? The humidity from the shower would be enough to make the glue week.

We have a Model t depot hack (wooden body) and I used Gorilla glue on a broken seat back. It worked great (a month or more) untill we got wet one day, and the glue just let go.
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Old 06-22-2010, 12:34 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Albertan View Post
HAHAHA your right Herk. but were they not putting in a cabinet in the washroom? The humidity from the shower would be enough to make the glue week.

We have a Model t depot hack (wooden body) and I used Gorilla glue on a broken seat back. It worked great (a month or more) untill we got wet one day, and the glue just let go.
I am sorry, but I did not recall the specifics.
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Old 12-22-2012, 08:56 AM   #13
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I have an 18ec that we want to mount some cabinets to, saw this post, called the dealer who called Forest River. No help whatsoever. Maybe I will try a different dealer, but don't see any other options except to drill through the walls for a secure mount.
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Old 12-22-2012, 06:04 PM   #14
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Use 3M 5200 Marine Adhesive Sealant. I use it on my boat and RV. Works Great. Use some large diameter course thread wood screws that are long enough to go through the cabinet and 5/8" to 3/4" into the wall. Use the 5200 when attaching the cabinets to the wall. When putting them up, do not tighten the screws real tight as this will squeeze out all the 5200. Come back 24-48 hours later after it cures and screw it tight, but not so tight it stripes out the screw holes.

See the factory video below. It states the side walls are 1" FRP and the flooring is 3/4".



Marine Fast Cure 5200 Adhesive Sealant :3M US

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Old 12-22-2012, 09:32 PM   #15
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Thanks, good ideas. I hesitated to do the bolt through the wall thing, but wasn't sure about anything else being secure enough.
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