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Old 10-01-2016, 12:04 AM   #1
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considering 2014 30WLA, input?

Well, I've been pretty dead set on one of these, basically this yr model and price, for most of this year. Found one that meets those criteria. It's about 6 hrs away. Sending an inspector to look at it next week before I make the trip.

Man, was really thinking these were some of the strongest built THs out there, until I started reading this forum. At 1st glance, the 1 pc alum roof cap and the FRP construction sounds much better than your average TH. But wow, once once of these starts to get water damage in a wall...repairing looks daunting to put it mildly. 2014 model...been outside the entire time, not sure how hard the roads it's traveled have been. Any specific areas you recommend the inspector focus on?? Beginnings of water damage and structural damage are my biggest concern. Cosmetics I can handle.

As for intended use, family camping with ATVs, track days with motorcycle, infield camping at races (rooftop deck someday?), and a couple times a year I'd like to load my jeep in it. With some modification to the cabinet left of stove to gain me another 6-8" it should be doable. Anyone know what is behind the vent and in that area (lower cab lft of stove)?

The main reason I had set on a WnP was the capacity to take a trip with the jeep. Without it, any other TH will do what I need. Taking the jeep out is not the most important activity. Are these things really as strong as the dealer touts them to be? Can anyone point out obvious miscalculations in my dream of a do everything TT?

appreciate all input.
Jim
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Old 10-01-2016, 08:22 PM   #2
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considering 2014 30WLA, input?

The only place that roof requires maintenance is a bead of self leveling caulk down each roof seam. The side rounded caps overlap the walls and the aluminum roof. Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByForest River Forums1475371243.621818.jpg
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ID:	121869. I wouldn't worry to much about leaks if the caulking is in good shape. As for being strong, the entire camper frame has a 2"X4" box tube frame extension under the external walls and 16" on center floor joist and roof rafters.
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Old 10-02-2016, 03:10 PM   #3
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The walls have no framing.
Fiberglass on plywood,no frame


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Old 10-02-2016, 03:22 PM   #4
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https://youtu.be/p2oL2sHwmIA

Hope this helps


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Old 10-02-2016, 03:50 PM   #5
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You are right, the walls are 1" FRP, Fiberglass Reinforced Plywood, the same on many high end fifthwheel and motorhomes. A 1" FRP would be a lot stronger than a 1/4" fiberglass over studs. J M O. My total wall thikness is about 2".
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Old 10-03-2016, 12:28 AM   #6
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As far as toy haulers I wouldn't own anything else, work and play are tough!


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Old 10-03-2016, 10:48 AM   #7
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Thanks for the opinions guys. That was really my initial impression. But then you get to reading about some poor Joe, who's roof cap screws weren't sealed from factory, and ..blah blah blah, catastrophe. I didn't really realize how costly and difficult a repair might be if it develops a leak and starts to wick.

However, my logic is, buying a 2014...regardless if the PO stored it and used it uncovered for its life, and whatever he might have done with it, how bad a shape could it be in at this point?? And for a $10-15k discount over new, any minor issues or deferred maintenance can be addressed. These are about as tough a TH TT as you can get, right? Structurally, these resist flex better than most, right? And buying from an oilfield guy, that may have brought it down some rough roads, shouldn't be too concerning if the under carriage looks clean, right??

Secondary question, is the resale market on these relatively solid? I've had to look a long while to find the model and price I wanted. And that's searching pretty broadly. Do these things sell ok when they're listed for a reasonable price? Or, are these such a niche product, it takes a while to find someone that really wants to forgo bells and whistles for carrying capacity?

Thanks again!
Jim
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Old 10-03-2016, 10:58 AM   #8
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We have had every type of RV except a pop up. Started with a Used C, a new fiver, a used DP, and now a 2016 TT toy hauler. As far as selling, we moved all the others without any problem. We found this 25WB Work and Play new for less than $20K after seeing them priced all the way to $32K. Other than having to upgrade our TV, (this thing is heavy) we are very satisfied.
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Old 10-03-2016, 02:23 PM   #9
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We just bought a 2014 30WRS & so far really like it ... okay, we've only camped in the yard & been to an actual campground once; headed to Cruisin the Coast this weekend!
I was scared to death too, after reading on this forum, but it has also given me some confidence in our rig...I'll read about an issue, then go look at our trailer & see if it's a real problem. I did have a wiring problem with the axel brakes, but was able to track it down (took awhile to find but easy fix) & only other thing is wheel wells need some silicone between wood/metal & undercoating (yes factory should do better, but easy enough to do ourselves). I'm on several forums (not camping related) & find that people like to whine about every little thing. I believe that with anything recreation (camper, 4wheelers, dirt bikes, boats, 4x4s & cool old vehicles) there will be some maintenance/repair issues no matter how nice you think it was built; even sometimes when you build it yourself
I would recommend getting a trailer without the Artic pkg ... all that sprayed on insulation underneath makes it a PITA to follow wires, lines & look over condition of anything under there... reason it took me 3 days to find a broke trailer brake wire
Haven't loaded our bikes & 4wheeler up yet, but shouldn't be problem with a few more tie downs added. I don't know anything about Jeeps (got a '72 Blazer though), but better check it's height; I would guess that may be your biggest problem. Also weight, because the cargo capcity would be your Jeep + water in tanks + other stuff like coolers, chairs...
Resale must be good! I've been looking at W&Ps for 3+yrs and descent used ones don't stay advertised but a few days & they're gone, especially ones over 25'.
That's my $.02 on it all
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Old 10-03-2016, 05:44 PM   #10
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We've had our '15 WLA for about a year and a half. Overall, we're happy with it, and it fits our current needs. We carry 2 atv's or 1 Harley in it. The biggest issue we've had is with the a/c, we're on a/c unit #3 due to failures. I'd consider the overall build quality average to slightly above average, but far from perfect. Ours has a few exterior bolts that aren't installed correctly, some of the interior wood has iffy fit and finish, and the bathroom door and kitchen drawers will not stay closed on the road. Structurally, it seems pretty solid.

We plan to keep it for a few more years and then upgrade to either a class A or super C.
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Old 10-04-2016, 09:11 AM   #11
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Every thing is going to require a little maint. Ive had some screws back out or loosen up, fuel pump for gen quit (twice) but other wise have many nights ( I dont keep track) boon docking at race tracks and many nights with full hook ups camping with very little issues. 45000 miles of towing with no worries, I will take it anywhere (I can fit). I think if you take care of it it will take care of you IMO. But, mine has been very solid and reliable.
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Old 10-07-2016, 06:25 PM   #12
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Thanks for all the input everyone. Verbally told him I'd take it and will make a road trip up to get it next week. Inspection report looks fine. Only issues are cosmetic, overall well kept and undamaged per the inspector. I have had those guys miss some minor things on vehicles I've purchased in the past, but we'll just assume this guy did a GREAT job and everything is perfect, unless noted.

2 questions ya'll may have answers to:
-Sun fade on red paint. Specifically rear door and around it. Also, some small paint bubbling on nose cone. Will these things buff and gloss up like a regular auto finish? DIY self project? or is it more complicated than that?

-What kind of hitch are you guys using to pull this thing. That crazy tongue weight puts it at upper limit of a class V hitch on my truck. What should I be looking for in terms of hitch and stabilizer package to pull this thing with a 3/4 ton??

thanks again for the input....excited...weather is getting perfect.
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Old 10-08-2016, 05:05 AM   #13
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What kind of hitch are you guys using to pull this thing. That crazy tongue weight puts it at upper limit of a class V hitch on my truck. What should I be looking for in terms of hitch and stabilizer package to pull this thing with a 3/4 ton??

I'd look at the Equil-i-Zer 4 point hitch. It offers both weight distribution and sway control. The fact that you will be placing a lot of weight in the rear of the trailer will help with the tongue weight. I have been able to move my trike around just enough so that I get the same measurements with the trailer as I do with out(the WD hitch is doing allot of the work).

I tow with an F250. I am always glad to have the truck when I am towing my 25CB. Going to a 3/4 from a 1/2 wasn't an easy choice for me, but once I did it I wasn't sorry.
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Old 10-08-2016, 06:22 PM   #14
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I tow with an F250 diesel. I use a Reese 1700/17k WD hitch with the dual cam sway control. It's a beefy hitch, but as you know, the tongue weight on these things is crazy high, especially when unloaded. I wasn't worried about total weight, it's the tongue weight. I went one step above so I wasn't right at the max rating of the hitch. Make sure to use a true 2.5" shank and not the 2" sleeve .
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Old 10-09-2016, 05:22 PM   #15
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So, when I look at specs which say it's got a GVWR/TW of 13,322/1,322, is that TW a max loaded value?

What do we do we think is the max Real World TW I will see? I realize it depends on how it's loaded, but I should expect TW to be at it's heaviest when it doesn't have toys loaded huh?

Sorry for the 1MM questions, but I'm ready to go get this thing and realize that I need to purchase a better hitch in the next couple days. And the couple places I've gone into, have reps about as knowledgeable as your local new car salesman....ie. not very.
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Old 10-09-2016, 07:31 PM   #16
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Also, they make 14k/1.4k set ups that use a 2" shank like my current receiver has. Do we think the 2.5" is totally necessary? Or just adding some peace of mind?

Like this one from Reese
Reese SC Weight Distribution w Sway Control - Trunnion - 15,000 lbs GTW, 1,500 lbs TW Reese Weight Distribution RP66157
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Old 10-09-2016, 09:08 PM   #17
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We pull a 30WRS with a F350 crew cab truck. We have had no problems and we run the trailer heavy most of the time. This is the hitch that we use.
https://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Dist...e/RP66130.html
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Old 10-17-2016, 11:43 PM   #18
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Thanks for the input all. For better or worse, I bought it last week and brought it home.

I have a 3 or 4 things I dream of adding to it, and you will likely soon be asked for advice on each of them. But in the meantime, is there a link or list you recommend to cover all the maintenance items I need to check, specifically moisture related? Unit seems very well taken care of, but it's spent its short life uncovered out in the sun. Roof sealant looks original and ready for a redo. I will need to thoroughly go over it.

Only thing of concern is a very slight but visible seam swell, vertically under driver side bedroom window. This is above hole cut in for the spare tire winch access, and I think it has wicked from that access point based on the condition of the visible plywood on inside bottom. Any input on how to prevent this from deteriorating further would be really appreciated. Obviously, sealing the snot out of that bottom exposed wood is step 1.

Thanks again. Hope to be a productive member of your little club here.
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Old 10-19-2016, 05:16 AM   #19
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Hope you enjoy your W&P as much as we enjoy ours!

Post up some pictures of it when you get the chance.
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