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Old 01-16-2015, 10:05 AM   #21
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What do you get for mileage? I've been looking at some 6.7 however we usually only pull 20-100 miles when we go camping, my ecoboost has the power to pull just not the chassis. Usually around 70mph it starts to sway. My mileage averages 5-6.5
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Old 01-16-2015, 10:12 AM   #22
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I can get almost 10 if I keep it around 70. It will tow it faster but mileage suffers. The 6.7 is a beast while being very comfortable. I drove straight from Taylor park colorado to Granbury texas last summer coming home and had zero fatigue. Just an excellent truck for towing.
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Old 01-16-2015, 12:09 PM   #23
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Are you guys running any kind of anti sway? Have you ever figured out your loaded tongue weight. I run two anti sway friction bars on my 30WR. My tongue weight runs about 1350lbs no sway but I don't tow over 65...

Modmania are you towing a 30wr wrs with a half ton?
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Old 01-16-2015, 12:41 PM   #24
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I am running a 14k equilizer hitch! I also have 85 gallon extra tank in the bed of truck cause I travel so much in the winter towing sleds.

I am pulling my wrs 30 with a crew cab short box 1/2 ton with air bags.
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Old 01-16-2015, 01:13 PM   #25
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Thats pretty impessive I never would have thought a half ton could tow that. I tow a 30wr with a older Super Duty 7.3 Diesel. My 30wr weighs in about 11,500 to 12,200 loaded with tounge weight about 1350lbs. The hitch on the truck it was rated at only 1000lbs tounge weight and 10000 gross. So I had to upgrade the hitch it'self. I upgraded to a 16000 lbs hitch 17000 wdh rated. I also run airbags. Have you ever weighed your truck and trailer loaded? Just curios to what your numbers are compared to mine.
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Old 01-16-2015, 01:20 PM   #26
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With my rzr 800, full water, all bedding, fridge loaded etc I weighed in at 11900!! It's the limit for my truck! If I stay at 65-69 it pulls great but interstate speed it's white knuckle driving for sure and now I just take back roads when possible! When I was dealing in camper they said they have a lot of guys pulling with half tons, I was in question but trusted them! I wouldn't recommend it all.
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Old 01-16-2015, 01:26 PM   #27
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Old 01-16-2015, 02:19 PM   #28
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Dang Mod I thought you had an 18 or 23 when you said a 1/2 ton! A 30wr with a half ton is a load.

I do have the older style chain link anti sway system and have been thinking about getting the newer style with the bar going to the little ball. If you don't get some weight on the ball it is almost undriveable. Do you think the newer style would make an appreciable difference?

Sorry this thread kinda got side tracked.
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Old 01-16-2015, 02:29 PM   #29
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I'm not very familiar with the chain style. I can say that I pulled mine without the bars attached and 45 mph it was tough to handle
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Old 01-16-2015, 04:28 PM   #30
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This is my setup kinda old school but it works


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Old 01-16-2015, 05:09 PM   #31
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I have that set up minus the bars. Just the chains. I think I need a new hitch set up.
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Old 01-16-2015, 06:22 PM   #32
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Just about every hitch manufacturer makes the Anti Sway Bars. I would also go with this device as well. It stops the slop in the receiver especially when you have anti sway bars which are constantly pushing against the receiver.. When backing I will loosen them up. They also can make noise when turning but that just means their working..

Hitch tightener: no wobble, anti rattle stabilizer device for hitch accessories
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Old 01-17-2015, 01:53 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MODMANIA View Post
What do you get for mileage? I've been looking at some 6.7 however we usually only pull 20-100 miles when we go camping, my ecoboost has the power to pull just not the chassis. Usually around 70mph it starts to sway. My mileage averages 5-6.5
Your Cassis has nothing to do with it! You are too heavy in front. When you load the trailer on the truck and then load the trailer, the hitch should only drop a few inches. If you sway at 70 move a little weight off the hitch and re try. If your trailer and gear is within your trucks GVWR check your tongue weight. A good way to check tongue weight if you have a bathroom scale is like this.

load the trailer and then unhook it.

take the dry weight of the trailer and all the stuff and add it up. this is your GVW.
Take the scale and a block of wood
and a 4 foot 4x4, measure 1 foot down the 4x4 and mark it.

This goes under the hitch.
a block goes under the short end on the ground.
the scale under the long end with a piece of wood under the hitch resting on the 4x4 at the 1 foot mark to make the 4x4 and the trailer level (or the hitch at ride height when hooked to the truck) while setting on the scale. If you need to buy a different hitch to level the trailer then do so.
Zero the scale before you put trailer weight on it!
You want 10% tongue weight of the total loaded trailer weight.

If your loaded trailer weighs 6500lbs you want 650lbs tongue weight. or 162.5lbs on the scale

Put a jack stand under the rear (NOT Touching) of the trailer and move around the cargo to get this 10% or close to it. The stand is for if you get too light in front you don't lift the tongue off the ground 12% max not under. If you need breaking weight, you can load the bed for this. This might take a few times to get it right No more sway! And run your tires at Max Sidewall Pressure cold, truck and trailer. If your tire calls for 60lbs, run it!

Picture for reference and modification.
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Old 01-17-2015, 02:18 PM   #34
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This will be the first thing i do this spring when it warms up!! Thanks you!!
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Old 01-17-2015, 02:54 PM   #35
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No problem. If you need anti sway devices, this is why. if anything you might need to add bags to level out the truck for high headlights.

For the 5ers the procedure is different due to where the hitch is and weight differences
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Old 01-17-2015, 02:58 PM   #36
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I already have have air bags and with my equilizer hitch I have to run 40 lbs min just so truck don't bottom out over cracks in the road lol
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Old 01-17-2015, 03:05 PM   #37
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Way too much tongue weight. And I bet you carry a ton of stuff in the bed which don't help either. If you do carry there, move as much weight by the cab as you can.
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Old 01-17-2015, 05:19 PM   #38
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Actually you will get LESS sway with MORE tounge weight. If you reduce tounge weight you will get more sway.
Controlling Sway Causes of poor tow

Tips on How To Tow a Trailer | etrailer.com

I tried the scale method but most bathroom scales will only go to 300lbs, so at 4.1 you will max the scale at 1200lbs. I used a longer bar so went with 6.1 but still ended up bending the bathroom scale.. Eventailly I went into a closed roadside comercial scale and weighed the truck empty, then the trailer tongue (un-hooked) I weighed truck front rear and trailer connected. My toungw weight was 1350lbs.. Gross Trailer weight was around 12,000. I was shooting for 10 to 15% tongue weight and was pretty much right where I wanted to be. That said havng a older truck my OEM hitch was rated at 1000lbs tw and 10,000 gross. I upgraded the hitch to a
1600 tw 16000 gross rating.

I would suggest that OP also check the rating on his hitch to make sure he is not under rated but eventially I would get a bigger truck...
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Old 01-17-2015, 05:33 PM   #39
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Well When I tow skidsteers at work with 14,000lbs total trailer weight and get them too far forward the trailer sways. If the rear of the vehicle does not squat some the rear wheels will break loose so you get sway both ways. you are correct.

But when you have a anti sway setup, you sag like hell AND you still sway, your too heavy up front. That's the problem with his situation. Its really important to keep the trailer level to the tow vehicle as well. choosing the proper hitch to elevate the tongue does this.

It goes farther than that when you factor in trailer type and construction plus where the axles are on the trailer in relation to what the length is,but we don't have to go there. As long as you try to use the 10%-15% tongue weight rule regardless your usually good to go.
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