New member and Work and Play owner

[036.6turbo]

Hello, I just won a auction for a 2007 Forest River Work and Play 5th Wheel 34RL. I am new to RV ownership and know very little about this rig. My tow vehicle is a GMC crew cab short bed 4x4 Sierra with the Duramax engine, and Allison trans.

I few questions I have are things like holding tank capacites. Is there any charts that show what size fresh / grey / black water tanks, this was manufactured with?

The RV is a repo unit, so I know it is going to need some TLC. Just how much, I won't know until I get it home. When I inspected it prior to bidding, I was able to plug the 7 pin into my truck, when I did that, the electric landing gear functioned, interior and exterior lights work, as did the audio system. The lights on the upper rifrigerator panel came on as well.

My truck currently has a B&W turnover ball installed, so I plan to convert the RV to gooseneck. I plan to use the RV to haul my dirt bikes to the Enduro races I compete in. And hopefully some family vacations?


Thank you in advance for all of your advise.

2007 Forest River Work and Play 5th Wheel 34RL - Repocast.com®

[Ford Idaho]

Welcome.

First may I suggest.

Is B&W made.

https://www.google.com/webhp?tab=ww&...ined=undefined

[036.6turbo]

Originally Posted by Ford Idaho

Welcome.

First may I suggest.

Is B&W made.

https://www.google.com/webhp?tab=ww&...ined=undefined

Thanks, I did know that those are an option. I may end up with one at some point.

What drove may decision to convert the trailer was the end use of it. Goosenecks hitches are primarily used on equipment and livestock rigs. Those see much more "uneven" terrian when towing. Most all of the races I run, are in remote areas, not traditional camp grounds, think remote forrest trail heads. The added articulation available with the ball versus a fifth wheel plate, allows the trailer to access rougher terrian.



Ranch Hitch Universal 5th-Wheel-to-Gooseneck Coupler Adapter Andersen Trailer Coupler AM3100

[Ford Idaho]

Originally Posted by 036.6turbo

Thanks, I did know that those are an option. I may end up with one at some point.

What drove may decision to convert the trailer was the end use of it. Goosenecks hitches are primarily used on equipment and livestock rigs. Those see much more "uneven" terrian when towing. Most all of the races I run, are in remote areas, not traditional camp grounds, think remote forrest trail heads. The added articulation available with the ball versus a fifth wheel plate, allows the trailer to access rougher terrian.



Ranch Hitch Universal 5th-Wheel-to-Gooseneck Coupler Adapter Andersen Trailer Coupler AM3100

I can understand that.
One of the guys at my work did the goose neck change for about the same
reason.

[Scott Colegrove]

You should be able to go to the forest river website and the work and play section and look up your trailer and get the specs on it. the new trailers may have just a little more tank capacity,but, it won't change a lot.

[036.6turbo]

Originally Posted by Scott Colegrove

You should be able to go to the forest river website and the work and play section and look up your trailer and get the specs on it. the new trailers may have just a little more tank capacity,but, it won't change a lot.

I'll try that, thanks.

[wp_owner]

Originally Posted by 036.6turbo

. . .

My truck currently has a B&W turnover ball installed, so I plan to convert the RV to gooseneck. I plan to use the RV to haul my dirt bikes to the Enduro races I compete in. And hopefully some family vacations?


Thank you in advance for all of your advise.

2007 Forest River Work and Play 5th Wheel 34RL - Repocast.com®

Are familiar with the "Anderson Hitch"? Use this with your B&W gooseneck to haul your 5th wheel with no modifications!

[ependydad]

Interesting- the B&W head pivots side to side to allow unlevel hooking up; I just don't know to what degree. I know when my camper sunk on one side and the camper made contact with the truck, the hitch held tight - but that's a whole lot different than trying to hitch or unhitch like that!

[EnduroRdr]

Originally Posted by 036.6turbo

Hello, I just won a auction for a 2007 Forest River Work and Play 5th Wheel 34RL. I am new to RV ownership and know very little about this rig. My tow vehicle is a GMC crew cab short bed 4x4 Sierra with the Duramax engine, and Allison trans.

I few questions I have are things like holding tank capacites. Is there any charts that show what size fresh / grey / black water tanks, this was manufactured with?

The RV is a repo unit, so I know it is going to need some TLC. Just how much, I won't know until I get it home. When I inspected it prior to bidding, I was able to plug the 7 pin into my truck, when I did that, the electric landing gear functioned, interior and exterior lights work, as did the audio system. The lights on the upper rifrigerator panel came on as well.

My truck currently has a B&W turnover ball installed, so I plan to convert the RV to gooseneck. I plan to use the RV to haul my dirt bikes to the Enduro races I compete in. And hopefully some family vacations?


Thank you in advance for all of your advise.

2007 Forest River Work and Play 5th Wheel 34RL - Repocast.com®

Welcome aboard Turbo, we have a few things in common, I too ride enduros, I too have a work and play 5th wheel. Although this is my 3rd camper it is my second toyhauler and first fifth wheel. Mine is the 27ul thats the shortest w&p 5thwheel (the unlta light one that looks like a horse trailer) lol.
Sounds like your repo may just have a dead battery - seeing how when you plugged in your 7way and all the electrics started working. You say you are new to RV ownership, all I can say is once you have your own shower and dry bed at the races, you will never go back to tents again heh heh. I tow using a Slider 5th wheel hitch, although I could have saved some money on the hitch cause with the tapered (rounded nose) of my trailer I have never had the need to slide the hitch back - I can do a almost a 90 degree turn in my short bed box without sliding it back. And uneven rough roads in/out of camp have never been an issue.
I do like the idea of a goose neck cause it would give just a little more room in the bed to haus ice chests or fire wood etc.

BTW where do you race? I chaised points in TSCEC, BJEC and SERA for several years now i just ride a few select events - im more dual sport these days.

Good luck with your new venture - keep us posted on your travels. And post of some pictures!

Here is my rig!

[036.6turbo]

Originally Posted by wp_owner

Are familiar with the "Anderson Hitch"? Use this with your B&W gooseneck to haul your 5th wheel with no modifications!

The Anderson is actually the one I bought. I found one with the 8" off-set on CL about 50 miles from my house, gave $150.00 for it and I was very happy, it has seen very little use.

Originally Posted by ependydad

Interesting- the B&W head pivots side to side to allow unlevel hooking up; I just don't know to what degree. I know when my camper sunk on one side and the camper made contact with the truck, the hitch held tight - but that's a whole lot different than trying to hitch or unhitch like that!

Since my truck had the goose neck in it when I bought it, and I'm a CHEAP SOB, I could not see putting a fifth wheel in, when the gooseneck would work.

Originally Posted by EnduroRdr

Welcome aboard Turbo, we have a few things in common, I too ride enduros, I too have a work and play 5th wheel. Although this is my 3rd camper it is my second toyhauler and first fifth wheel. Mine is the 27ul thats the shortest w&p 5thwheel (the unlta light one that looks like a horse trailer) lol.
Sounds like your repo may just have a dead battery - seeing how when you plugged in your 7way and all the electrics started working. You say you are new to RV ownership, all I can say is once you have your own shower and dry bed at the races, you will never go back to tents again heh heh. I tow using a Slider 5th wheel hitch, although I could have saved some money on the hitch cause with the tapered (rounded nose) of my trailer I have never had the need to slide the hitch back - I can do a almost a 90 degree turn in my short bed box without sliding it back. And uneven rough roads in/out of camp have never been an issue.
I do like the idea of a goose neck cause it would give just a little more room in the bed to haus ice chests or fire wood etc.

BTW where do you race? I chaised points in TSCEC, BJEC and SERA for several years now i just ride a few select events - im more dual sport these days.

Good luck with your new venture - keep us posted on your travels. And post of some pictures!

Here is my rig!

Thats a nice looking rig!

Yes, my battery is dead.

I picked the unit up last night. We had to run the power elevators up, to get the truck under the gooseneck, the fuse on my truck blew! Luckily a friend of mine had his little SUV there, so we used jumper cables from his SUV, directly to the trailer battery, that allowed us to run the landing gear up. The landing gear acted a little funny? At first it would not go high enough, but after to going up and down a few times, it did get up where we needed it. Maybe its low on fluid, or just doesn't like the cold? Anyhow, trailer needs a battery, truck needs a fuse.

The trip home was slow, because I was just feeling things out. It is big, and heavy. I have hauled my fair share with this Dmax, this was one of the biggest things yet. The gooseneck adapter has a 8" off set, my turnover ball has a 4" back set, and the king pin is 3" forward of the trailer, all of that adds up to 55" between the back of the cab of the truck, and the front of trailer. Trailer is 102" wide, so if my math is right I have 4" of safety margin on a 90deg turn.

I did manage to get it in my back yard, in a spot where I can work on it. Plugged in some shore power, and everthing inside came to life! There was even enough propane in the left side tank, for the furnace to run a little bit.

It is missing the table from the garage area, and it's support poles. Most everything else seems to be there. Found the pole to release the catch on the awning and the crank for the rear landing gear Also the big power cord for the shore power.

First repairs will be the roof vent covers. All three are trash. Previous owner had big black plywood boxes covering them, I think those covers held the heat in, and basicly melted the plastic covers.

Then a deep cleaning, followed by removing the peeling decals and wheeling out the faded black exterior finish.

I race AMA D14 Enduros 50+ class.
http://www.d14enduro.org/flyers/2014...s_schedule.pdf

My goal in this whole deal was exactly what you said, a warm bed, shower bathroom and the ability to eat healthy at the races. The my wife started thinking about al the "other" things we could do with an RV and it just snow balled from there.

To be honest, I never thought I would win this auction, I bid a max of $7,000.00 and I really believed it would go above 10k. But it's mine now, at the very worst, if I have to resell it, it shouldn't lose too much.

I'll try to post the few pic I took yesterday.

Thanks for the replies, and advice, I'm going to need a lot more!

[EnduroRdr]

Wow looks like you got a really good deal! When I was shopping for mine most in that vintage were 12k and up depending on cond. Yea the 34 is a big rig couldn't tell from your sticker but I'm guessing it is around 9000lb dry.
Just think what you saved in purchase price will cover a lot of diesel over the next few years.
I see your district 14 and way north of me you ride with the Ed Heartfelder crowd <grin>. I know all about those 50+ class - all my old rivals from 30 years are still fast heh heh.
Take care and keep posting!

[036.6turbo]

Originally Posted by EnduroRdr

Wow looks like you got a really good deal! When I was shopping for mine most in that vintage were 12k and up depending on cond. Yea the 34 is a big rig couldn't tell from your sticker but I'm guessing it is around 9000lb dry.
Just think what you saved in purchase price will cover a lot of diesel over the next few years.
I see your district 14 and way north of me you ride with the Ed Heartfelder crowd <grin>. I know all about those 50+ class - all my old rivals from 30 years are still fast heh heh.
Take care and keep posting!

Yeah, I'm guessing between 8000 and 9000 dry? She is a bigun. We'll use it a few times, then decide if its a keeper or not. Figured out what style vent cover it takes, went to the local RV supply house, I wanted to get the "smoke" ones, out of stock.

My better half had me measure it for new blinds, curtains and fabric to cover the bed frame boards.

Taking a close look at the king pin / goose neck adapter, I need to try and lower the nose of it a little bit, not sure the best way to go about it. I may get radical with my $150.00 adapter, cut about 4" off of it.

And yes, I had been away from competitive riding for 20+ years, I was shocked how fast these guys still are, But it's fun, and keeps me on the bike.

[036.6turbo]

Good day today, I got the propane tanks filled, and the furnace and stove work fine. Should I leave the valves on both tanks open? Or what do you guys recommend?

I removed the one broken hinge on the overhead cabinet door, I'll hit the big box stores to see if I can source a replacement.

I pulled the battery out and took it in the shop, it is actually taking a charge!!

I got a little rubbing compound and a rag test rubbed a small area on the front, I think its going to clean up just great

I'll post a few pictures, I need some advise on the white propane valve. When there is red showing in that small window, does that mean the tanks are empty?

I cleaned out the previous owners left over belongings, hoping to find an owners manual, no such luck. I did find one for the toilet!

Anyhow, we're making progress.

[ependydad]

Originally Posted by 036.6turbo

Good day today, I got the propane tanks filled, and the furnace and stove work fine. Should I leave the valves on both tanks open? Or what do you guys recommend?

There is actually more debate to this than you could imagine!

Some folks say:
- Leave both on and let the autochangeoverr do its thing. You just have to remember to go out and check it periodically to see when it switched. If you do the below, you'll inevitably run out in the middle of night and have to turn on the 2nd tank when it's frigidly cold.

Other folks say:
- If you have one on and leave one off, then you'll know when you run out of the first one and can take it to get filled. If you do the above, you'll forget to check and will run out of propane entirely (likely in the middle of the night!).


SO... you gotta pick which risk is for you.

[BamaBob]

Originally Posted by ependydad

There is actually more debate to this than you could imagine!

Some folks say:
- Leave both on and let the autochangeoverr do its thing. You just have to remember to go out and check it periodically to see when it switched. If you do the below, you'll inevitably run out in the middle of night and have to turn on the 2nd tank when it's frigidly cold.

Other folks say:
- If you have one on and leave one off, then you'll know when you run out of the first one and can take it to get filled. If you do the above, you'll forget to check and will run out of propane entirely.


SO... you gotta pick which risk is for you.

~~Tossing more gas on the campfire....~~

I am a "Other Folks" yep it sucks to go out at 2AM to switch tanks

It sucks MORE to be out of propane at 2AM when it is 20° outside

[ependydad]

Originally Posted by HSVBamaBob

~~Tossing more gas on the campfire....~~

I am a "Other Folks" yep it sucks to go out at 2AM to switch tanks

It sucks MORE to be out of propane at 2AM when it is 20° outside

I'll admit- I'm in the first crew. BUT- I also ran entirely out of propane twice before I learned how to read my autochangeover indicator!

For those 2am run outs, most convenience stores will sell you a $50, 15 pound exchangeable tank. Mine wasn't 2am, but it was about 9:30pm when we discovered it. Good times.

Note, I added a note about running out entirely at 2am based on your comment.

[BamaBob]

Originally Posted by ependydad

I'll admit- I'm in the first crew. BUT- I also ran entirely out of propane twice before I learned how to read my autochangeover indicator!

For those 2am run outs, most convenience stores will sell you a $50, 15 pound exchangeable tank. Mine wasn't 2am, but it was about 9:30pm when we discovered it. Good times.

Note, I added a note about running out entirely at 2am based on your comment.

LOL...I am honored

Yeah I agree about the autochangeover ours is pretty straightforward and is located on the curbside to boot.

What I wish FR would do (or OC to design a mod ) is a beeping alarm when the tank changes over so you know it's "Time") Better yet for that alarm/indicator to be located on your master panel inside (FR are you listening)

[036.6turbo]

Originally Posted by ependydad

I'll admit- I'm in the first crew. BUT- I also ran entirely out of propane twice before I learned how to read my autochangeover indicator!

Is that what that "white" box is? The one in the picture I posted? It's some sort of an "autoswitch?

[ependydad]

Originally Posted by 036.6turbo

Is that what that "white" box is? The one in the picture I posted? It's some sort of an "autoswitch?

Possibly, but I don't know. Mine looks differently:

[036.6turbo]

Well I couldn't take it am longer. I got up on the roof of the rig and replaced the vent covers, with new "smoke" colored ones. Hard to believe the plywood box covers, had held that much heat in.

But of the (3) of them, only (1) even resembled a cover anymore. The other two, just fell apart.

Please forgive the crappy cell phone pics.