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Old 10-13-2016, 02:24 PM   #1
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Newbie Needing Help

Hey Folks,

I'm relatively new to the world of TTs and I'm looking for some help. There looks to be a big lack of model-specific information out there. To preface, I'm pretty mechanically/electrically inclined and I like to customize.

I got tired of borrowing my buddies old Viking popup, so, of course, I went out and bought myself a 26' toy hauler!
I found a great price/trade on a 2006 WTP 26DB and I've immersed myself in all things travel trailer hoping to gain some quick knowledge.
With anything else, I find that the help of great people on forums tends to be the best place for first-hand knowledge - so thank you ahead of time! Sorry if this gets a bit long. I'm sure I'll have other questions come up later so split it up.

Some History:
This guy bought this WTP new in 2006 and only used it on his deer lease in West Texas. It was only ever pulled from DFW to Lubbock and back once a year and left there for three months. The rest of the time, it was under cover. He only ever used city water and a 30A hookup. To my knowledge, the holding tanks have NEVER been filled - this could be good, or terrible. Not sure.

The Good:
Roof, ceiling, floor and walls all appear to be in good shape. NO evidence of leaking at all. No dents or damage aside from a blemish on one wheel well from a blowout. All furniture, doors, sinks, shower, windows, etc. appear to be in good shape. Tires are less than 3 years old and appear to be wearing evenly in the 3K miles put on them - no rot. Got a great price on her - as far as I know...

The Bad:
He said up front that the exterior lights and brakes haven't worked in 1.5 years. The pump is bad/has a leak. The water heater works, but should probably be replaced if its going to be used regularly. He has no keys to anything including door and hatches. Battery "will probably need to be replaced" (more on that later). Broken breakaway cable, broken screen door latch. Awning has a few small holes. DIRTY as HELL - West Texas dust bowl.

What I've Found So Far:
After driving her to my storage place, which was a load of fun with with no brakes BTW, I started with the electrical. Not only did the exterior lights/brakes not work - nothing 12v-run worked at all. I pulled and replaced the deep cycle batter (which was ORIGINAL and 10 years old!) with a larger 27 series deep cycle. Nada.

I went through all of the electrical connections at the distribution block and back. Bingo. The terminals were all so corroded, there was no continuity to anything. I cleaned up the 7 pin and all terminals wiring with wire brushes, baking soda, water, and sealed with elec grease and presto...let there be lights. All 12v lighting, info center, stereo, etc. seem to be working aside from a couple of running lights and the rear cargo light, which I presume to be bulbs.
I plan on replacing all lighting with LED.

The black water tank is reading 2/3 full - gross. Upon further inspection, there is "stuff" in there but I don't believe it to be quite that full, so possibly "stuff" built up and tripping the sensor?

With this new and fun knowledge, I've ordered a new door latch assembly (keyed), CH751 keys for compartments, new METAL screen door latch assembly, black water dump hose, masterblaster tank wand, clear hydroflush attachment, breakaway cable, larger battery box, new water pump, new 7 pin plug (for good measure), LED bulbs for all interior lights, locks/chains, awning tape, etc.

My Questions (Finally):

  • The pump kicks on (I know I'm not supposed to run dry) but he said it leaks. He has bypassed the water pump since he only used city water. You can see in the picture where the new bypass line is, so would I essentially put a tee in where this is and tie it into the pump? I'm assuming that the pump pulls from the FW tanks, then is tied into that primary line (city water line) and distributed to sinks, showers, etc. Any pictures of the correct setup would be much appreciated!
  • Is there any difference between the two fresh water tanks and where are the drains for these? It looks like there are two white PVC lines with caps that come out under the unit near the door?? Please advise.
  • Do I have to light the furnace prior to using it, or will it automatically ignite after sending signal from the thermostat? Propane tanks are original, so do you think I'm safe to use these?
  • Which product would you recommend to seal the roof joints/AC? I have found Dicor 501LSW-1 Lap Sealant, but not sure if this is what I need. Like I said, no leaks (yet), but I like to take care of my toys better than the last owner.
  • I was amazed this was a 50A unit rather than a 30A with only one rooftop AC. When I bring it down to a 110v/household plug, it pops the GFCI every time. Just want it plugged in so I can charge battery and run interior lights while working on it. Is this just a thing with TTs in general? Make a difference if plug was non-GFCI?
  • In the garage, there are zero tie-downs. I will be hauling a Honda Valkyrie (big bike) and the only thing I see are the support bars for the beds. Did you all install aftermarket tie downs like e-track, or am I safe to put in a wheel chock and tie off to the bars?
That's all I've got to get started. I'll break the rest up into other posts. Thanks again so much for your help and input. Any other maintenance, checks, etc. that you could recommend would be great - I'll be working on it all weekend. As I learn more and get my hands dirty, I'll be happy to reciprocate!

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Old 10-13-2016, 03:40 PM   #2
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It sounds like you have the right idea on how to repair all the problems you are finding. The only thing I might be able to help you with is the water pump. One winter I didn't get all the water out of my pump and it cracked on the side of it. It was really hard to see the crack. You might be better off pulling the pump out to check it for cracks. It doesn't look like it would be too hard to pull. Hooking up water to your pump and a valve to shut the flow of water off wouldn't be too hard either so you could bench test the pump to check for any leaks. If the pump is cracked you might try to find if replacement parts are available to repair yours.
I think you are right about hooking the pump back up by teeing in back in at the new by pass hose. Maybe some one on here has the same set up and can give you more information on it.
Good luck and enjoy your new to you camper. Taken care of there should be a lot of life left in it
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Old 10-13-2016, 09:02 PM   #3
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For the Roof I used ( Dico DC-10 ) self leveling sealant, it was recommend for metal roofs, it worked really well took me 8 tube's.
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Old 10-13-2016, 09:30 PM   #4
clr
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I think that you are on the right track with the water pump also. As suggested I would pull the pump out and bench test it so you can check for leaks and ensure that it runs.

As to the fresh water tank drains here to it sounds like you are on the right track. The two white PVC pipes with the caps are in all probability your low point drains.

I would not recommend plugging you TT into a GFCI outlet in your home. Long story as to why but the short answer is the your home has a grounded system your TT is floating ground. Also the converter will in many cases delay the current flow thus causing the home GFCI to trip.

As for the furnace I would ensure that the propane is on and try to start the furnace. You may need a helper for this. Be close to the furnace and you should hear a clicking noise. If auto spark it will try three times to start and if it does not it will lock itself out and turn on the red light. If no clicking you may have to light the pilot light.
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Old 10-13-2016, 09:50 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mitchapalooza View Post

My Questions (Finally):

  • The pump kicks on (I know I'm not supposed to run dry) but he said it leaks. He has bypassed the water pump since he only used city water. You can see in the picture where the new bypass line is, so would I essentially put a tee in where this is and tie it into the pump? I'm assuming that the pump pulls from the FW tanks, then is tied into that primary line (city water line) and distributed to sinks, showers, etc. Any pictures of the correct setup would be much appreciated!
  • Is there any difference between the two fresh water tanks and where are the drains for these? It looks like there are two white PVC lines with caps that come out under the unit near the door?? Please advise.
  • Do I have to light the furnace prior to using it, or will it automatically ignite after sending signal from the thermostat? Propane tanks are original, so do you think I'm safe to use these?
  • Which product would you recommend to seal the roof joints/AC? I have found Dicor 501LSW-1 Lap Sealant, but not sure if this is what I need. Like I said, no leaks (yet), but I like to take care of my toys better than the last owner.
  • I was amazed this was a 50A unit rather than a 30A with only one rooftop AC. When I bring it down to a 110v/household plug, it pops the GFCI every time. Just want it plugged in so I can charge battery and run interior lights while working on it. Is this just a thing with TTs in general? Make a difference if plug was non-GFCI?
  • In the garage, there are zero tie-downs. I will be hauling a Honda Valkyrie (big bike) and the only thing I see are the support bars for the beds. Did you all install aftermarket tie downs like e-track, or am I safe to put in a wheel chock and tie off to the bars?
That's all I've got to get started. I'll break the rest up into other posts. Thanks again so much for your help and input. Any other maintenance, checks, etc. that you could recommend would be great - I'll be working on it all weekend. As I learn more and get my hands dirty, I'll be happy to reciprocate!
Water pump: Not sure why he "bypassed" the pump, as it has a check valve in it to prevent city water from going into the FW tank(s). Unless the check valve failed so he just bypassed it? Anyway, I've attached a generic plumbing pic for you; you'll want it to be set up similar to the pic. I'm not real familiar with 2 FW tanks, so I don't know how/if they tie together to feed the pump; you'll have to figure that out.

FW tank drains: The plumbing pic doesn't show the low point drains, which usually just come off the hot and cold lines some place that's convenient to the builders. What you are describing near your door MIGHT be the low point drains. Usually one is red (hot) and one blue (cold), but if they're white, maybe they have red and blue caps? If not, it IS possible they are FW tank drains, but if they are, you'll need to find their valves somewhere.

Furnace: Being 10 yrs old, I believe your furnace would be direct ignition. Get the make/model off it and do a google search for the manual, then you'll know. The propane tanks are probably OK, but be aware that you will probably have to replace them or get them recertified in order to refill them, as they are usually only good 10 yrs or so.

GFCI: If you are plugging into a home 110VAC that's protected by a GFCI, that could be your problem. GFCI's don't play well together.

Others will chime in on the other stuff (this stuff, too!)
Attached Files
File Type: pdf RV Plumbing pic.pdf (183.5 KB, 9 views)
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1988 Coleman Sequoia - popup (1987-2007)
2012 Roo19 - hybid (2012-2015)

2016 Mini Lite 2503S - tt (2015 - ???)
2011 Traverse LT, 3.6L, FWD
2009 Silverado Ext Cab, 5.3L, 4x4, 3.73
2016 Silverado 2500HD Dbl Cab, 6.0L 4x4, 4.10
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Old 10-14-2016, 12:00 PM   #6
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Posts: 3
Quote:
Originally Posted by clr View Post
I think that you are on the right track with the water pump also. As suggested I would pull the pump out and bench test it so you can check for leaks and ensure that it runs.

As to the fresh water tank drains here to it sounds like you are on the right track. The two white PVC pipes with the caps are in all probability your low point drains.

I would not recommend plugging you TT into a GFCI outlet in your home. Long story as to why but the short answer is the your home has a grounded system your TT is floating ground. Also the converter will in many cases delay the current flow thus causing the home GFCI to trip.

As for the furnace I would ensure that the propane is on and try to start the furnace. You may need a helper for this. Be close to the furnace and you should hear a clicking noise. If auto spark it will try three times to start and if it does not it will lock itself out and turn on the red light. If no clicking you may have to light the pilot light.
Thanks, I will pull the pump and bench test, though I've already ordered a new one so I may just scrap it.

The GFCI is at our covered boat and RV storage lot, though I guess they will all be 15 or 20A and work just the same. Oh well, its nice to run the vacuum or battery tender off of.

I believe the furnace is self-igniting. I should be able to run the furnace off just 12v and propane for testing, right? I'm also assuming the red light you are referring to is on the furnace itself?
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Old 10-14-2016, 12:02 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HarrynSally View Post
For the Roof I used ( Dico DC-10 ) self leveling sealant, it was recommend for metal roofs, it worked really well took me 8 tube's.
Thanks! Not cheap stuff at $15 per tube! Did you scrape the old seal off before applying or just hit the weak spots?
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Old 10-14-2016, 08:21 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mitchapalooza View Post
Thanks, I will pull the pump and bench test, though I've already ordered a new one so I may just scrap it.

The GFCI is at our covered boat and RV storage lot, though I guess they will all be 15 or 20A and work just the same. Oh well, its nice to run the vacuum or battery tender off of.

I believe the furnace is self-igniting. I should be able to run the furnace off just 12v and propane for testing, right? I'm also assuming the red light you are referring to is on the furnace itself?
Mitch:

Check out the pump even if you've got a new one coming. Never hurts to have a spare!

I am unaware of any red light associated with a furnace. The furnace is controlled by the wall thermostat and no lights involved. I believe it will simply shut down after 3 tries. You have to turn it off at the thermostat, wait about 15 sec, then try it again.

I think clr is getting the furnace confused with the hot water heater, which DOES have a red light that will illuminate if it fails to light on the 3rd try. If this happens, turn it off for 15 sec, then try it again.
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1988 Coleman Sequoia - popup (1987-2007)
2012 Roo19 - hybid (2012-2015)

2016 Mini Lite 2503S - tt (2015 - ???)
2011 Traverse LT, 3.6L, FWD
2009 Silverado Ext Cab, 5.3L, 4x4, 3.73
2016 Silverado 2500HD Dbl Cab, 6.0L 4x4, 4.10
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Old 10-15-2016, 08:37 AM   #9
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I left the old, I clened it real good with acetone then I we did the hole perimeter seems and bolt heads.
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