Newbie with ?'s - WAB the strongest?

[jaherbst]

Originally Posted by drittal

80# (max for tire) and never over 65mph, usually 62. Trailer sits fairly level depending on how it is laden. We didn't have full water this time so it was slightly nose low, yet it was rear tire that blew.

My 2017 25WAB tires are stamped 65 Max PSI. Did you replace the OEM tires or did yours come with different tires with a max PSI of 80#?

Jack

[jaherbst]

Just checked your profile and see you have a larger Work and Play which probably accounts for the difference in tires and PSI.

Jack

[drittal]

Yeah. FRP construction would be same as WAB? I was really impressed with how it handled the blow out. I've seen composite and tin sidings nearly disintegrate during blow outs

[Big Red and 30WR]

Take your money and run as fast as you can . These trailers are junk.

[HeritageChic]

Originally Posted by Big Red and 30WR

Take your money and run as fast as you can . These trailers are junk.

I always find these sort of responses "interesting". I am not saying that they are or are not junk. But, when you make such a strong statement, I think it is important to also expand on your reasoning. If these trailers are junk, what trailer would you recommend? And what are the structural differences between the W&P and the one(s) you recommend that make the latter superior? And, finally - what are the financial considerations in comparisons? As a newbie, I certainly have a lot to learn and appreciate everyone's input. But, I would like some facts to support the opinions offered up. Thanks!

[Cajun Style]

I would like to hear it!

[jaherbst]

Originally Posted by Big Red and 30WR

Take your money and run as fast as you can . These trailers are junk.

So what kind of trailer do you have?

If it is a Work & Play why do you still have it if you feel so negative about Work and Play?

If you do not have a Work and Play why are you still lurking here?

If your such an expert share some of your expertise with us.

Jack

[Concerned tax payer]

1. I would start by checking past years of depreciation on the NADA website.
2. W&P trailers use Plywood sides with thin fiberglass bonded on the outside, there is no hollow area or insulation to stop heat or cold penetration. Nothing can be added to the outer walls unless it fastens through to the outside of the walls.
3. Before you believe Chaz Hood in the warranty department is good to work with, realize he is brought in when the dealers are no help. Problems have been escalated up several levels before Chaz is involved. (anyone that knows Chaz either works for Forest River or has had a problem escalated up.)
4. W&P advertise the roof as seamless metal when it has a seam around the perimeter of the flat part of the roof, (a 25 WAB has about 66 feet of caulking on the perimeter of the roof.) A rubber membrane roof is always sloped and wraps over the sides so there is no standing water on the seam. Most RV shops are proficient at changing membrane roofs. very few shops can handle the thin aluminum types. Membrane roofs are warranted for 10 to 12 years, W&P has a disclaimer that they are not responsible for leaks after 90 days. Every time water standing against caulking freezes, the caulk lifts a little more.
5. My 25 WAB has no heater vent in the bathroom, with uninsulated walls and floor it is very cold getting out of the shower.
6. Condensation from the AC drains on the roof to pool and look for a leak. You should be able to park level and not worry about pooling water.
7. My fuel tank was higher than the filler cap. our local dealer had to cut a hole in the side of the camper and in the floor to reroute the line. The builder knew it would not work and sent it out anyway.
8. the front covers look good but do not stay on. you have to spread the fasteners on the middle cover to get them in the holes for the friction fasteners to hold them in place. ( there is a video on Youtube showing the middle cover inverting and coming off at highway speeds)
9. Done for now. Reply back if you need more reasons to not buy this.

[jaherbst]

[QUOTE=Concerned tax payer;1595184]1. I would start by checking past years of depreciation on the NADA website.
2. W&P trailers use Plywood sides with thin fiberglass bonded on the outside, there is no hollow area or insulation to stop heat or cold penetration. Nothing can be added to the outer walls unless it fastens through to the outside of the walls.
3. Before you believe Chaz Hood in the warranty department is good to work with, realize he is brought in when the dealers are no help. Problems have been escalated up several levels before Chaz is involved. (anyone that knows Chaz either works for Forest River or has had a problem escalated up.)
4. W&P advertise the roof as seamless metal when it has a seam around the perimeter of the flat part of the roof, (a 25 WAB has about 66 feet of caulking on the perimeter of the roof.) A rubber membrane roof is always sloped and wraps over the sides so there is no standing water on the seam. Most RV shops are proficient at changing membrane roofs. very few shops can handle the thin aluminum types. Membrane roofs are warranted for 10 to 12 years, W&P has a disclaimer that they are not responsible for leaks after 90 days. Every time water standing against caulking freezes, the caulk lifts a little more.
5. My 25 WAB has no heater vent in the bathroom, with uninsulated walls and floor it is very cold getting out of the shower.
6. Condensation from the AC drains on the roof to pool and look for a leak. You should be able to park level and not worry about pooling water.
7. My fuel tank was higher than the filler cap. our local dealer had to cut a hole in the side of the camper and in the floor to reroute the line. The builder knew it would not work and sent it out anyway.
8. the front covers look good but do not stay on. you have to spread the fasteners on the middle cover to get them in the holes for the friction fasteners to hold them in place. ( there is a video on Youtube showing the middle cover inverting and coming off at highway speeds)
9. Done for now. Reply back if you need more reasons to not buy this.[/QUOTE

Your nose is going to grow for telling all these none truths you know.

Jack

[Concerned tax payer]

Jack, walk me through what part is not true

[Concerned tax payer]

Jack, where are you at. I would like to discuss what part of my post you don't think is accurate. My W&P 25WAB is by far the most disappointing thing I purchased in my 56 years of life

[Big Red and 30WR]

Originally Posted by jaherbst

So what kind of trailer do you have?

If it is a Work & Play why do you still have it if you feel so negative about Work and Play?

If you do not have a Work and Play why are you still lurking here?

If your such an expert share some of your expertise with us.

Jack

Why do I have ? I can`t even give it away . First year alone it has been to the dealer for repairs 3 times in 2 months . I`ll try to list all problems if I remember them all . First was the axle seals shot right after I bought it , Replaced the seals and brakes . Had dealer fix roof leak , replace table that the screws came threw the top. I had to fix the ac , missing a bolt , leaked inside . Fridge vent seal broke first year and delaminated part of the wall . Several tubes of silicone to fix the vents . Paneling under bed needed to restapled along with several pieces of trim. Window seals replaced, Water heater needed work, Jack broke on last trip due to a broken spot weld . I`m sure I missed some other problems I`d assume forget . Oh Had to silicone shower as it leaked down threw the floor. For a new trailer I`d say its JUNK

[jaherbst]

Originally Posted by Big Red and 30WR

Why do I have ? I can`t even give it away . First year alone it has been to the dealer for repairs 3 times in 2 months . I`ll try to list all problems if I remember them all . First was the axle seals shot right after I bought it , Replaced the seals and brakes . Had dealer fix roof leak , replace table that the screws came threw the top. I had to fix the ac , missing a bolt , leaked inside . Fridge vent seal broke first year and delaminated part of the wall . Several tubes of silicone to fix the vents . Paneling under bed needed to restapled along with several pieces of trim. Window seals replaced, Water heater needed work, Jack broke on last trip due to a broken spot weld . I`m sure I missed some other problems I`d assume forget . Oh Had to silicone shower as it leaked down threw the floor. For a new trailer I`d say its JUNK

Sorry to here all that. Don't know how this all happened to you. But it is a lot.

I have had two W & P (18EC and 25WAB) very few problems with either. About 30,000 miles between the two. I travel a lot and when we are home it is stored in my Hanger and not in the Sun.

I have owned nine motor homes and two toy haulers so far and none were totally maintenance free. This includes two very large diesel pushers. Even they had a few wrinkles.

Forest River and Chas Hood have been very good compared with the other manufactures I have dealt with.

Jack

[HeritageChic]

Originally Posted by Big Red and 30WR

Why do I have ? I can`t even give it away . First year alone it has been to the dealer for repairs 3 times in 2 months . I`ll try to list all problems if I remember them all . First was the axle seals shot right after I bought it , Replaced the seals and brakes . Had dealer fix roof leak , replace table that the screws came threw the top. I had to fix the ac , missing a bolt , leaked inside . Fridge vent seal broke first year and delaminated part of the wall . Several tubes of silicone to fix the vents . Paneling under bed needed to restapled along with several pieces of trim. Window seals replaced, Water heater needed work, Jack broke on last trip due to a broken spot weld . I`m sure I missed some other problems I`d assume forget . Oh Had to silicone shower as it leaked down threw the floor. For a new trailer I`d say its JUNK

Big Red - what trailers DO you recommend for use as a toy hauler? I hear you loud and clear that you do not recommend a W&P. What have you owned that you feel has better quality?

[HeritageChic]

Originally Posted by Concerned tax payer

1. I would start by checking past years of depreciation on the NADA website.
2. W&P trailers use Plywood sides with thin fiberglass bonded on the outside, there is no hollow area or insulation to stop heat or cold penetration. Nothing can be added to the outer walls unless it fastens through to the outside of the walls.
3. Before you believe Chaz Hood in the warranty department is good to work with, realize he is brought in when the dealers are no help. Problems have been escalated up several levels before Chaz is involved. (anyone that knows Chaz either works for Forest River or has had a problem escalated up.)
4. W&P advertise the roof as seamless metal when it has a seam around the perimeter of the flat part of the roof, (a 25 WAB has about 66 feet of caulking on the perimeter of the roof.) A rubber membrane roof is always sloped and wraps over the sides so there is no standing water on the seam. Most RV shops are proficient at changing membrane roofs. very few shops can handle the thin aluminum types. Membrane roofs are warranted for 10 to 12 years, W&P has a disclaimer that they are not responsible for leaks after 90 days. Every time water standing against caulking freezes, the caulk lifts a little more.
5. My 25 WAB has no heater vent in the bathroom, with uninsulated walls and floor it is very cold getting out of the shower.
6. Condensation from the AC drains on the roof to pool and look for a leak. You should be able to park level and not worry about pooling water.
7. My fuel tank was higher than the filler cap. our local dealer had to cut a hole in the side of the camper and in the floor to reroute the line. The builder knew it would not work and sent it out anyway.
8. the front covers look good but do not stay on. you have to spread the fasteners on the middle cover to get them in the holes for the friction fasteners to hold them in place. ( there is a video on Youtube showing the middle cover inverting and coming off at highway speeds)
9. Done for now. Reply back if you need more reasons to not buy this.

1) Good point - will check out depreciation on W&P and as compared to other toy haulers.
2) This was part of my original question. I have read in multiple forums that the walls are more solid than the typical RV. I saw it myself at a RV shows. The W&P seems to be more in-line with what we were used to in heavy cargo and/or aluminimum horse trailers. I will research more the insulation factor. I don't see us doing a lot of "customization" that would require drilling thru walls. This quote confused me -- do you mean nothing can be added to the inside? I]Nothing can be added to the outer walls unless it fastens through to the outside of the walls.[/I]
3) I've read Chaz's name several times. And, I understand that the dealers usually represent multiple lines of trailers and are not going to be the experts on the W&P. I suppose my viewpoint is - thank God there is a Chaz and that he is a great dude to work with. I hope FR takes care of him
4) Will look into the whole roof leak information. I was under the impression that the roof was better. I get the flat roof thing - all of our trailers have been flat roof But, we kept at slight angle and never had problems.
5) I had to actually laugh at this one because it brought back memories. We are used to roughing it. We had a steel horse trailer and woulld go on week long trail rides in February. We had no a/c or heat in our trailer. I would wait until my husband would get up and light a gas heater before I would crawl out of bed. My point - We aren't looking for the frills of a high-end RV. My toes can be cold for a bit. But, we are looking for a sturdy trailer to haul us and our bikes, and provide the basics of comfort.
6) Back to the roof thing - got it.
7) That sounds like a pain in the ass. I'm glad you were able to get it fixed.
8) I've read about this from you in earlier posts. I have also read where people say it isn't a problem. Different perspectives I suppose. Looking forward to checking them out for myself soon.

Finally - do you still have your W&P? And, obviously you don't recommend buying one. What do you recommend?

[HeritageChic]

Originally Posted by Big Red and 30WR

Why do I have ? I can`t even give it away . First year alone it has been to the dealer for repairs 3 times in 2 months . I`ll try to list all problems if I remember them all . First was the axle seals shot right after I bought it , Replaced the seals and brakes . Had dealer fix roof leak , replace table that the screws came threw the top. I had to fix the ac , missing a bolt , leaked inside . Fridge vent seal broke first year and delaminated part of the wall . Several tubes of silicone to fix the vents . Paneling under bed needed to restapled along with several pieces of trim. Window seals replaced, Water heater needed work, Jack broke on last trip due to a broken spot weld . I`m sure I missed some other problems I`d assume forget . Oh Had to silicone shower as it leaked down threw the floor. For a new trailer I`d say its JUNK

So - I guess there are not "lemon" laws with trailers? haha. I gotta be honest with ya - if you want to sell it, you may want to tone it down. Scared me! I say that with a smile - but, seriously. If I found a used W&P on this site, I would buy it. But, dude - not yours!

[HeritageChic]

Am I going to get in trouble for asking another question without starting a new thread? So, I've read that some dealers won't work on W&P trailers that are bought from other states. From what I can see - there are FOUR W&P that have the majority of the options I am looking for in Texas. And, Texas is a big state. FOUR. But, there are a lot in Arizona. Have you all ran into the problem with local dealers not servicing out-of-state purchases? And, 2nd - if we order from our local Texas dealer, will we end up getting hosed on the price? Is it better to buy one off the lot than order one exactly like you want?
Thanks!

[Concerned tax payer]

The dealer we purchased our trailer from dropped the line after a few months, they could not get along with W&P, Chaz Hood told us to go to another Forest River Dealer in Billings Montana. They would not do any work until we gave them a credit card number, and said they would reimburse us after W&P paid them, stating that reimbursement would be less than what they charge. (we would pay the difference). A Forest River Sales Rep named Adam Cates came to Billings and looked at the roof and said it should not have been made the way it was. he escalated it to a corporate level, and they said to P**S OFF, and to keep posting pictures and blogs. So I Have.

A friend just purchased a Jayco Octane 260, same MSRP but alot more features.

[Big Red and 30WR]

Also forgot last year I lost trailer brakes , Come to find out they ran the brake wire under the frame over top of the axle . So you know what happened . I won`t buy another one because I only use mine one week a year . But if I did I`d look a custom builder , I would look into Logan coach or a company like them . I know its a lot more money but I believe the quality is a lot better .

[jaherbst]

Originally Posted by HeritageChic

So - I guess there are not "lemon" laws with trailers? haha. I gotta be honest with ya - if you want to sell it, you may want to tone it down. Scared me! I say that with a smile - but, seriously. If I found a used W&P on this site, I would buy it. But, dude - not yours!

You are so right on! Some just don't get it.

Jack