Spray Foam Underbelly

[rjtimmer]

Those Spacecrafts look nice.....

[WestCoastRV'er]

Guys:
What are your thoughts on going to Lowes or Home Depot and buying normal insulation fill the gap in the under belly?
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[rjtimmer]

If you use "normal" by my definition, it mean fiberglass matt insulation. that will get wet and mold rather quickly, becoming a huge mess.


If you are going to do it yourself, i would use closed cell foam board insulation, bonded together and cut into blocks cut to fit the areas you want to insulate. then i would also add a sheathing of some sort, maybe corrugated plastic sheeting, also sealed from moister ingress, and cover the entire underbelly and insulation blocks. being sure to seal any areas that moisture could enter the insulated area, for example around drains, water hook ups, wiring, and plumbing.


I know, and understand the desire to use spray on foam....its easy, does a good job, and is relatively inexpensive

[WestCoastRV'er]

Originally Posted by rjtimmer

If you use "normal" by my definition, it mean fiberglass matt insulation. that will get wet and mold rather quickly, becoming a huge mess.


If you are going to do it yourself, i would use closed cell foam board insulation, bonded together and cut into blocks cut to fit the areas you want to insulate. then i would also add a sheathing of some sort, maybe corrugated plastic sheeting, also sealed from moister ingress, and cover the entire underbelly and insulation blocks. being sure to seal any areas that moisture could enter the insulated area, for example around drains, water hook ups, wiring, and plumbing.


I know, and understand the desire to use spray on foam....its easy, does a good job, and is relatively inexpensive

Good point. Never thought of moisture and mold. Any idea what it would cost to get someone to blow spray foam. Is there a diy spray foam available?
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[rjtimmer]

The insulation FR uses is Air Tight. a certified installer was handling the application.


the web site should be...

Spray Foam Insulation

[beyerjf]

I didn't see anything on the Airtight website about using their product in a transportation application. There is a huge difference in a product designed for stationary vs mobile use.

[rjtimmer]

There is, but that is what FR uses. I would have to believe that the engineers at FR did there research, and chose a product that works in this application.

Read thru this page on the air tight website....it may clear things up a bit.

AirTight Closed Cell Spray Foam



They are using the closed cell version, which will not absorb water unless the cell surface is breached. AirTights closed cell foam meets requirements for a class 2 vapor retarder at 2" of thickness. it's not plastic sheating, but its better than craft faced batts insulation at repelling moisture, and allowing the interior to breath and dry out.

[wildbill79]

Originally Posted by rjtimmer

For the 2015 model year, the 6" extra tall was included as a standard, for an 84" interior height. That's what I was told.... Sure better be, or my jeep won't fit....that would be bad.

Originally Posted by JCMINIS

Since its almost done, it want help much, but you can get extra height.....The only problem with extra height is they mount the cabinet's higher....which is difficult for my short wife...I ordered my 40 rls 6" taller (im 6'4") .

Our '15 30WRS had a standard interior height of 84" We had it raised the additional 6" (interior height = 90"). Without it, I was unable to walk under the rear electric queen without ducking. The cabinets are mounted in the original position and they extended them to the roof. The cabinet guys did a very nice job of this. The front cap had 6" added to the bottom, which is nice because I can put a tool box on the generator rack and still be able to open it. The ramp is also 6" taller, which lessens the angle going into the garage. The awning also gets raised 6". I think the extra ceiling height is one of the better options you can get on a Work and Play especially when you consider the amount of work they do versus the price of the option. Its too bad they don't advertise it as an option. We had a very helpful dealer and factory rep that answered any question we had prior to ordering

Speaking of options that aren't listed
You can also get a 30wrs, and other models with an extended garage. Our dealer had one with a 14' garage. Overall the trailer was 40' long.
Electric stabilizers is another option they don't advertise but we had added to ours.

There should be a Work and Play thread with all the unadvertised options you can get on these trailers. They are very customizable but most people don't know it. I just learned by reading this thread I can get a screen door for the garage slider.

[JCMINIS]

Originally Posted by wildbill79

. The cabinets are mounted in the original position and they extended them to the roof. The cabinet guys did a very nice job of this.



There should be a Work and Play thread with all the unadvertised options you can get on these trailers. They are very customizable but most people don't know it. I just learned by reading this thread I can get a screen door for the garage slider.

You are correct, I was mistaken on them being mounted higher. They are just taller cabinet's. I was lucky when I ordered mine that the rep was on site at the dealer when I ordered and was able to take benefit from the customizable stand point.

[rjtimmer]

for 2015 i was told the added 6" was standard. so I didnt order the additional 6.....but after looking at pictures....im not so sure i have as tall a unit as yours JC....its going to be a bad day for the dealer if our unit doesn't have the 90" interior....

[JCMINIS]

I hope it works out for ya ! That would be a bad day for a dealer for sure.

[rjtimmer]

its not a 90" interior. its 88. but i have plenty of room for the jeep, no need to make a bad day for any one.

[rjtimmer]

FYI, i am not super impressed with the insulation properties of FRP, but getting the extra insulation was worth the expense. I have had my furnace on in the trailer since Saturday afternoon set at 55 degrees. here on the west coast of MI its been cold, and getting colder. we have not used more than the first half of one of the 30lbs LP tanks. Our old 5ver would have used a complete tank by now.
so, while the foam underbelly isn't pretty, and foil insulation on the walls is marginal at best. its better than no insulation for sure.

[1l243]

How is the moisture situation when running the furnace. In my non four season trailer I tend to fog up my windows assuming you have dual pane windows?

[rjtimmer]

No fog issues at all that we have noticed.

[JCMINIS]

Originally Posted by rjtimmer

FYI, i am not super impressed with the insulation properties of FRP, but getting the extra insulation was worth the expense. I have had my furnace on in the trailer since Saturday afternoon set at 55 degrees. here on the west coast of MI its been cold, and getting colder. we have not used more than the first half of one of the 30lbs LP tanks. Our old 5ver would have used a complete tank by now.
so, while the foam underbelly isn't pretty, and foil insulation on the walls is marginal at best. its better than no insulation for sure.

Agreed. I never had another camper/hauler to compare to, however ours seems to do pretty good. I have a spot to add a electric heat strip to my front a/c but haven't looked into it much as the few cold nights we have been racing it has stayed nice and toasty.

Originally Posted by 1l243

How is the moisture situation when running the furnace. In my non four season trailer I tend to fog up my windows assuming you have dual pane windows?

I had a small amount of fogging with ours and the dual pane windows.

[campnqueen]

Ok we have a WP 25LUA.. which we ordered with the "Artic package.. i.e. dual pane winders (that work rather well) tank heaters, and the spray on insulation. The down side is it is NOT a 4 season trailer.

We live in north Georgia... just got back from a camping trip where the temps went down in the teens at night. We brought our water hose in at night so not to freeze. Filled the water tank with water (turned on the heated tank pad) just like we did on our other small trailer (much cheaper unit). And in the morning.. we had frozen pipes!! NO WATER!

We discovered that that great Artic package has a serious design flaw. The supply line from the heated water holding tank goes OUTSIDE from under the tank and back up into the unit to the water pump... total exposed line!! About two feet of the line is uncovered!! REALLY? So FR saved what $2.00 to run this cheap hose (braided white hose) outside in the elements? Why couldnt they have run it in the floor or inside in the wheel well like they did for the other water suppy lines.

Luckily we got it thawed... thanks to my hair dryed... ran to Lowes and got insulated pipe wrap and covered it. WHAT A PAIN!!

Additionally the furnace ducting leave alot to be desired. Furnace blows well... NO air comes out of the living room or hall vents. Have had it to the dealer TWICE to have this repaired... and still not heat!! The ducting is pinched somewhere or disconnected.

So NO Work and Play IS NOT a 4 season trailer! (FR told us people in North Dakota are living in them in the winter... I think NOT!)

[Ricochet]

We have the winter package on our new 30WRS. I was surprised to see the foam underneath, but was told by the dealer that this would work better than the "cardboard covered" package many other brands use. Time will tell...


Question from the newb: If I use the heated tanks for an overnight enroute to destination, do I heat the tanks while driving the next day? Normally we would not de-winterize until we got to warm weather.

[rjtimmer]

I was told by the factory rep to turn the tank heaters on when the temps hit 40 degrees, and leave them on until you winterize or the ambient temp rises above 40 and stays there.

I thought i had read that the heaters operated on a temp sensor. turn on the switch to supply power to the controller, the controller operates the heat pad. but i can not confirm that at this time.


i'll read up on that this weekend.

[1l243]

Are the tank heaters 12 or 120 volts? I would think if they are 12v they will really suck battery power real quick. And if they are 120v they will not work when you drive down the road...