W&P 30WRS?

mcwheels · 10-17-2017, 12:15 PM

Hello fellow toy haulers,
I'm new to the forum and would like to hear any opinions on the construction and quality of a W&P 30WRS? Currently have a 2016 27' Coachmen without any problems but would like to upgrade so I have a separate garage and slideout for added comfort. My concern is giving up something that works, possibly getting something I may be sorry for; I have read some really poor reviews of W&P products and would like to avoid headaches. Your experience and advice I would appreciate.

Goats · 10-17-2017, 07:28 PM

I have one and love it. It's a over built toyhauler with thick sidewalls with a aluminum roof. It's a flat roof so when not in use I would nose up a little. It also very heavy mine is 9500lbs dry weight with a tongue of 1700lbs (I have a onan gen in it).

mcwheels · 10-17-2017, 08:58 PM

Thanks Goats, that's a note on the positive side. I'm a bit concerned with a tongue weight of 1,700 lbs, my Super Duty F250 with class V hitch is only rated for 1,500 lbs. What type of hitch are you using?

Goats · 10-17-2017, 09:28 PM

Without a gen it's only 1500lbs. I have a 01 psd that I upgraded to a factory 2.5" hitch that I got off Craigslist which is good for 1850 on the tongue and 18k total using a weight distribution hitch. You will need a weight distribution hitch with sway control. I using the Reese duel cam kit.

Goats · 10-17-2017, 09:30 PM

During bike season we use it every 2 weeks doing a dry camp. Meaning we are out in a cow field using our own on board water and the generator.

mcwheels · 10-18-2017, 07:33 AM

I'm loaded with 1400lbs on the tongue with the rig I use now and do use a equalizer brand hitch which has served me well but 1700 lbs will put it way over the rated limit. I'll look into the Reese.
Thanks for the advice.
(I do plan to have a gen in the new 30WRS)

KFX450RXC · 10-19-2017, 03:21 PM

We had one for a year and a half while I was racing ATVs. It was a really well-built, tough toy hauler that's perfect for something like taking to a dirt track and setting up camp in the middle of some random field.

But taking to Ocean Lakes or something, you'll find its not quite as fancy as other haulers. So its all about what you want and need.

If the hitch is a concern for you, get the 20,000 lb. Class V Curt hitch from etrailer. $250 and a 2700 tongue weight rating. I have one on my work truck and its been great for years. Installed it myself.

MSGirl · 10-20-2017, 02:44 PM

We have a 30WRS & love it. Our first camper! Looked at a few other toy haulers & regular campers...they all feel so flimsy & cheesy. Really like the option of being able to take dirt bikes with us & the enclosed trailer look. 2014 model & no real issues (understanding that anything recreational will require some maintenance & TLC). Had it little over a year & would still pick it over any other toy hauler we've seen!

OldGal3 · 10-20-2017, 09:24 PM

I'll ditto the positive replies. Been on the road full time for a year in my toy hauler. Had it into the dealer in Montana for one & 1/2 days to 'fix' a couple little things and install vent covers. Staying in many different RV parks, many in small town MT, WY, SD, ID and so on, I've had many folks comment on the stout build of the trailer. Heavier than others but it has
good axles under it. Happy with my choice.

If you do a search you'll read a thread about the fasteners for the cowlings on the front. A couple of us had problems with them, but once we figured out they were attached wrong and fixed the problem, they've been perfect since. On delivery make sure they are secure - any questions, ask here and I'm sure one of 'us' will respond.

Enjoy your Work and Play!

Concerned tax payer · 10-20-2017, 11:38 PM

before you commit to the Work and Play trailer, get a ladder and look at the roof. don't be fooled by the shiny radius piece that you can see from the ground. actually get up and look at the fit and finish on the roof and then also notice the sticker by the door that says the exterior seals need to be inspected every 60 or 90 days

T11ravis · 10-21-2017, 09:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mcwheels

I have read some really poor reviews of W&P products and would like to avoid headaches. Your experience and advice I would appreciate.

Look hard enough on the internet and you'll find anything...

I've owned 5 RV's (Class C, 5'er, 3 TT's), safe to say none are "perfect" but I'll put up a W&P against anything else out there. Frame, quality, durability, etc. Much better than most.

I have 3 good friends that have purchased late model W&P's in the past year. I decided to wait and see what issues any of them had before I looked for one. One year later and none of them have any major problems after towing multiple motorcycles approx. 4K miles all over the SE. That made it an easy decision for me.

I do understand the roof thing but it's not a big deal. Nose it up a bit and you're fine. I definitely prefer a flat metal roof over any of the rubber roofs I've had previously. Yes, there are seams up there that require inspection... it's an RV. That's part of the deal of ownership.

Good luck in your search!

mcwheels · 10-22-2017, 10:24 AM

Thank all of you for your feedback. Metal roof does not concern me I've had one on my utility trailer for 21 years and maintenance is easy. I noticed most of you are hauling with 350s or 450s; I have a 2017 F250 6.7L turbo diesel which has punch too pull but I suspect will be lite for the load in the suspension. Hence I am looking for a weight distribution sway control hitch, a Reese duel cam has been suggested by a member of this forum and a Blue Ox by a dealer so I'm still researching both.
I'm sold on the W&P quality thanks to the response I received from this forum, so tomorrow my Coachmen toy hauler goes to the local lot on consignment. I've negotiated a great price with a W&P dealer on the 30WRS, a reasonable trade offer but trying for the consignment sale for a higher price first.

To T11ravis,
I use the tot hauler for two different venues;
AHRMA, Tech Inspector (come race with us, lots of folks from WERA)
AMCA, National Field Judge

Thanks again to all of you

T11ravis · 10-22-2017, 03:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mcwheels

To T11ravis,
I use the tot hauler for two different venues;
AHRMA, Tech Inspector (come race with us, lots of folks from WERA)
AMCA, National Field Judge

Ha ha, awesome! Small world.

I actually did an AHRMA round a few years ago on my SV at Tally GP, had a blast! Maybe you tech'd me then!
I'm currently racing an EX 250. Is there a decent class for that?

slapshot12 · 10-22-2017, 05:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mcwheels

Thank all of you for your feedback. Metal roof does not concern me I've had one on my utility trailer for 21 years and maintenance is easy. I noticed most of you are hauling with 350s or 450s; I have a 2017 F250 6.7L turbo diesel which has punch too pull but I suspect will be lite for the load in the suspension. Hence I am looking for a weight distribution sway control hitch, a Reese duel cam has been suggested by a member of this forum and a Blue Ox by a dealer so I'm still researching both.
I'm sold on the W&P quality thanks to the response I received from this forum, so tomorrow my Coachmen toy hauler goes to the local lot on consignment. I've negotiated a great price with a W&P dealer on the 30WRS, a reasonable trade offer but trying for the consignment sale for a higher price first.

To T11ravis,
I use the tot hauler for two different venues;
AHRMA, Tech Inspector (come race with us, lots of folks from WERA)
AMCA, National Field Judge

Thanks again to all of you

I had a '15 F-250 and ended up adding rear air bags since the tongue weight on the larger W&P's are heavy. The 250 rear springs are soft, but the truck will easily handle the weight. I just upgraded to a 350 and towed the W&P last weekend and it did fine with no air bags. I'm also using the Reese dual cam WHD. It's worked well so far. It takes some adjusting to get the settings right at first. I'll agree with the metal roof is nice, but when they install stuff up there, it pulls the roof down which makes low spots and causes leaks the water pools up. It's easy to leave it nose up at home, but when you're set up somewhere and leveled, it's a pain.

As far as W&P quality goes, after 2 years of ownership I rate it as average. The RV industry in general has lower than average quality control. My fit and finish leaves a lot to be desired. I haven't had any major issues, just lots of little ones.

I'm trading mine in very soon and the depreciation was pretty bad. I've never traded in an rv before, so I don't know it that's industry wide or not.

MSGirl · 10-23-2017, 08:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mcwheels

... I noticed most of you are hauling with 350s or 450s; I have a 2017 F250 6.7L turbo diesel which has punch too pull but I suspect will be lite for the load in the suspension. Hence I am looking for a weight distribution sway control hitch, a Reese duel cam has been suggested by a member of this forum and a Blue Ox by a dealer so I'm still researching both.

Right now we pull with a '01 2500 Suburban & weight distribution sway control hitch. It gets the job done, but can't be in a big hurry or any mountain areas. The 6.0 motor is really what's limiting it (however keeping my eyes out for a '05-6 Duramax dually). So you will be fine with the diesel F250, just take your time & get the hitch set up correctly.

mcwheels · 10-23-2017, 09:07 AM

Thank you Slapshot12 and MSgirl, you both pointed out pros and cons and from experience I found that goes with just about any truck/trailer combo. Slapshot12, airbags may be needed, I installed them on a F150 years ago and that solved the leveling problem I was having at the time. From your experience I see airbags on my F250 in the future.
Thanks again

T11ravis · 10-23-2017, 10:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slapshot12

I had a '15 F-250 and ended up adding rear air bags since the tongue weight on the larger W&P's are heavy.

Did you notice the ride being worse when not towing?
I put bags on my '05 F250 years ago and really felt them when unhooked, even at 5 psi or whatever the minimum was. My hitch guy said he was really going to try to talk me out of them until he found out it wasn't my DD.

mcwheels · 10-23-2017, 03:01 PM

The ride in the F150 was fine, always kept at 10 lbs when unhitched. I used Firestone air-rite shocks, installed them myself in about 3 hours w/o using a lift. Ran those for six years without problems then sold the 150.

slapshot12 · 10-23-2017, 07:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by T11ravis

Did you notice the ride being worse when not towing?
I put bags on my '05 F250 years ago and really felt them when unhooked, even at 5 psi or whatever the minimum was. My hitch guy said he was really going to try to talk me out of them until he found out it wasn't my DD.

Yes, I found the ride a bit stiffer and I ran them with no air when not towing. I think the ride on my 250 with bags was about the same as my new 350 without.

I've had bags on several 1/2 ton trucks and they felt stiffer too. They really do help with leveling, so it's worth it, especially on non-DD.

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