Work & Play 25 ULS water heater bypass valve

campnqueen · 08-23-2013, 06:19 PM

Ok... so last week we picked up our NEW Work & Play 25 ULA.

There are three things that our dealer could not figure out or find.

1.) We are looking for the water heater bypass vavle. We have a 10 gallon water heater.

2.) The fresh water dump valve/ low point for fresh water tank. Dealer told me quote " Its under there somewhere"

3.) And inside the door next to the refridge there are three light switches.
1-for outside bug light
1-for the inside ceiling lights
1- and one... who knows? cant figure it out... Anyone have a clue?
Yes we have heated tank... switch is across the way, next to the sink.
Along with the water heater switches.

Your help in this matter is greatly appreciated.

Dave_Monica · 08-23-2013, 08:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by campnqueen

Ok... so last week we picked up our NEW Work & Play 25 ULA.

There are three things that our dealer could not figure out or find.

1.) We are looking for the water heater bypass vavle. We have a 10 gallon water heater.

You'll have to access the back of the WH and look for a 3 valve arrangement on the supply/discharge lines. May only be 2 valves if they used 3 way valves.

2.) The fresh water dump valve/ low point for fresh water tank. Dealer told me quote " Its under there somewhere"

Both low point drains and FW tank drain are usually quite obvious and reachable somewhere on the perimeter under the camper.

3.) And inside the door next to the refridge there are three light switches.
1-for outside bug light
1-for the inside ceiling lights
1- and one... who knows? cant figure it out... Anyone have a clue?
Yes we have heated tank... switch is across the way, next to the sink.
Along with the water heater switches.

No clue there!

Dave

campnqueen · 08-25-2013, 05:29 PM

Ok... here is what I have found...
looked under the bathroom sink in the cabinet. The photo is of a pipe with what looks like a knob of some kind on top.

fonzie · 08-25-2013, 05:34 PM

This photo is for your black tank flusher, it is a vacuum break to prevent water to flow back.....

**wmtire** · 08-25-2013, 05:35 PM

As Dave pointed out, the valves are beside the water heater. Where exactly is your water heater located at. We talked about it in a few forums this morning on how to find the valve(s):

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ass-46655.html

campnqueen · 08-25-2013, 05:48 PM

Fonzi... you are kidding? HHhmmmmmm? would have NEVER figured that one out. The black tank flush IS on the outside skin somewhere near that thingy.

Thanks for the info. Any clue on water heater bypass cut off valve?

campnqueen · 08-25-2013, 05:49 PM

Or how about one of these switches... the one on the far right... can NOT figure out what it goes to.

Dave_Monica · 08-25-2013, 09:26 PM

As mentioned, the bypass valve will be on the back of the water heater. You'll probably have to remove a panel inside a lower cabinet to access the back of the WH.

The light switches you show are 12V and most likely for lighting. If it's not for interior lights, check it it's for the exterior porch light, step, or scare light.

Dave

Foneguy · 08-26-2013, 09:27 AM

Try under the bed , my water heater is on the bedroom wall. Remove the mattress, up towards the head of the bed under where the mattress was should be a panel. The under bed storage is smaller than the mattress size.
At least this is how mine is ...201- W & P 25 ULA ......
As far as the switch........power awning ????? ..... I got nothing

campnqueen · 08-29-2013, 07:59 PM

Fone guy.... well that would be close to where our water heater is.... I will have to look... what a pain is the ***** if that IS where it is. will keep you posted.

HarrynSally · 09-07-2013, 04:19 PM

You got me looking and I found mine on the cold side of the water heater I guess it diverts the cold water straight to the hot side!!
From what I could make out.
Did not have much room to work with had to use a mirror to see the valve.

campnqueen · 10-01-2013, 08:39 PM

Hey y'all figured out what the swith goes to!! To our EXTRA roof vent in the back!!
Still haveing found the fresh water dump or thr water heater bypass... did figure out the inside/outside speaker with t eh Jensen radio. Wewill keep ypi post if anf whe we ifn the others.

EnduroRdr · 12-10-2013, 10:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by campnqueen

Hey y'all figured out what the swith goes to!! To our EXTRA roof vent in the back!!
Still haveing found the fresh water dump or thr water heater bypass... did figure out the inside/outside speaker with t eh Jensen radio. Wewill keep ypi post if anf whe we ifn the others.

Your WH by-pass (as described in a previous post) will be on the back side of the WH (considering the outside as the front).
Go to the wall that the water heater is mounted, look under the counter, you may have to remove a back wall on a shelf. (on mine I can see over the wall) and it will look exactly like this: (mine look like this) -

The valves are open if the long sides of the oval are in line with the tubing. As you can see in this photo the by-pass valve in the middle is closed. My arraignment is exactly like this.

I have the 27UL (the fifth wheel that looks like a horse trailer) so I can't speak to where your heater is located in the 25 ULS but it should be under the kitchen sink area if like mine.

HW drain? really, I don't think I have one, at least not a dedicated one at the heater - I just pull the plug on the outside. Actually my previous camper I had a drain valve that screwed in that same plug and it had a wing nut type valve like car radiators use.

I do have drains for hot water side and cold water side piping that drop down through floor under my shower area. Those tubes are the same PEX type tubing used through out the trailer (Red=hot, Blue or White=cold) just like in the picture so they are easy to see sticking down under the trailer. By draining water there I can drain the entire system (hot and cold) by opening each of them and blowing out the water. If you are concerned about winterizing, the easiest way I have found is to get a "Male water hose to Air hose adapter" like this: Both can be purchases for about 6 bucks on Amazon. (search "RV Blow Out Adapter")

or

Open the drain valves under the trailer first! Before hooking up air to system.

BE SURE TO LIMIT YOUR AIR PRESSURE TO 20 PSI MAX really all you need is about 10 psi!

I have never frozen a pipe, tube, heater, etc after blowing out the lines. I prefer blowing out the plumbing as opposed to installing "Winterizing Solutions" into the plumbing. When you go to use the trailer again you have to really flush out the system to get rid of the residue. I smelled like "Winterizing" after taking the first shower the only time I used that stuff. And I really though I had flushed it out before the shower. But I guess some was lingering in the system somewhere, so now I just blow it clear and no worries about freezing and it is ready to go after a quick fill and test.

You also reference "Fresh water dump" I assume you are talking about draining the fresh water tank? Mine has a simple short hose at a low point - between the wheels on driver side. I just unscrew the cap on the end of the hose and it drains. Sorry no pics of that - maybe if the rain stops I may go out and take one for you.

Keep us posted on your progress.

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