Yet ANOTHER issue with the 2014 WP 25 ULA

[campnqueen]

We have taken our 2014-WP 25 ULA to Florida for a short trip. Of course, we have MORE issues with this darn trailer. It has been a LEMON ever since we took delivery! (It’s out of warranty and we DID have any extended warranty as well.)

I am sure you have read many of my posts regarding ALL of the problems we have had. So many I have lost count.

The new issue is we have a water leak in the roof, which is a one-piece metal roof. The roof is a bad design because it hold water on the roof system unless you are NOT level... which you need to be for the refridge.

The water is coming in, dripping on the kitchen counter, and puddling in the cabinet. We are having a hard time finding where it is coming in. We have leaks around the wheel well when we drive in rain, and leaks around the back lower air vent as well.

Anyone out there have this same issue? Where did you find the water coming in? Suggestions?

My feeling is to sell the unit… but the hubby loves it. (That is because he is not the one who has to deal with the repairs!)


Oh yeah... our propane gas regulator went out too! Lord only knows whats next!!!

[campnqueen]

Does anyone know if we can get on the roof to look for where the leak is?
What can we use to seal the leaks?

[1l243]

I never had any leaks in my 30WR in the 5 years I owned it. We did store it under cover. However we were in several big thunderstorms.

You need to inspect all your seams. It's OK to tilt the trailer a quarter bubble to the rear so water will run off. It won't hurt your fridge.

The W&P does not have a walk on roof. Use a 8 foot ladder from the side and inspect it. If you need to get on the roof, I used a large piece of 3/8 plywood on top of a moving blanket you could use carpet remnant so you don't damage the roof..

Some RV repair shops have a system for pressurizing the trailer to check for leaks. I would find one of those and have it checked out especially since you have multiple leaks.

[drittal]

I'm sorry to hear you are having so many issues with leaks. From my understanding we need to look over all our seals yearly for cracks and/or deterioration. When I took possession of mine I checked it over within a couple weeks and found a hand full of spots where silicone sealant either didn't have a full bead or looked to not be continuous. After fixing those spots I sprayed the wheel well areas with plasti-dip.

The roof seams need to be checked yearly too. From my research Dicor self leveling sealant to fix cracks. Another product many swear by is eternabond tape. Make sure the surfaces are clean. I think acetone or mineral spirits will do the trick. Do a Google search though, as I'm not sure if either cleaner will hurt anything. I believe eternabond offers a cleaner that can be used as well.

Good luck!

[ykdave]

yes, unfortunately weather takes its toll on the sealants/caulking that is used to seal the roof and other things protruding from it.

Just a year or weathering on my XLR and im starting to see some cracking/separation in the caulking at the rear of the unit. nothing major, but something that should be repaired when weather permits

[BrianSF-GA]

Originally Posted by 1l243

I never had any leaks in my 30WR in the 5 years I owned it. We did store it under cover. However we were in several big thunderstorms.

You need to inspect all your seams. It's OK to tilt the trailer a quarter bubble to the rear so water will run off. It won't hurt your fridge.

The W&P does not have a walk on roof. Use a 8 foot ladder from the side and inspect it. If you need to get on the roof, I used a large piece of 3/8 plywood on top of a moving blanket you could use carpet remnant so you don't damage the roof..

Some RV repair shops have a system for pressurizing the trailer to check for leaks. I would find one of those and have it checked out especially since you have multiple leaks.

Maybe your Work & Play does not have a walk-on roof, but our 2013 18EC did and our current 2016 25ULA certainly does.

[BrianSF-GA]

Originally Posted by drittal

I'm sorry to hear you are having so many issues with leaks. From my understanding we need to look over all our seals yearly for cracks and/or deterioration. When I took possession of mine I checked it over within a couple weeks and found a hand full of spots where silicone sealant either didn't have a full bead or looked to not be continuous. After fixing those spots I sprayed the wheel well areas with plasti-dip.

The roof seams need to be checked yearly too. From my research Dicor self leveling sealant to fix cracks. Another product many swear by is eternabond tape. Make sure the surfaces are clean. I think acetone or mineral spirits will do the trick. Do a Google search though, as I'm not sure if either cleaner will hurt anything. I believe eternabond offers a cleaner that can be used as well.

Good luck!

.... definitely. Every year caulks and seals need to be inspected and repaired. You may want to check the "leveling" sealant used between the roof and sidewall seam for air holes from when it was applied. We had an issue from this that was immediately fixed at the dealer, but this was evident during our first use.

[aceinspp]

Sorry to hear of more issues. Have you ever considered going to the Rally in Goshen and have the folks there take a look at your unit. Explain all problems and they can fix there. Just a thought. Yes in the mean time some sort of fix is required to stop the water. Later RJD

[1l243]

Originally Posted by BrianSF-GA

Maybe your Work & Play does not have a walk-on roof, but our 2013 18EC did and our current 2016 25ULA certainly does.

I contacted Forest River when I bought my 30WR and they said it did not have a walk on roof.

Do you know how your 25ula roof is contructed? If you have a one piece aluminum roof it is laid on very thin luan right on the truss... Not very stable for walking on...

Unless they have changed the roof construction you can see not much support..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p2oL2sHwmIA

[CaptnJohn]

I need to talk to your hubby and find out how he does not have repair responsibility. That is valuable info ~~ he should write a book. Even if only 2 pages it would draw a premium price.

In the '80s my TTs had metal roofs and every other spring was coated with a paint with fibers. Today most are a membrane but all require semi-annual inspections to maintain warranty. How does anyone inspect if they cannot get on it? Hard to see the center unless having equipment to get above it.

[KFX450RXC]

My former 2014 30WRS (sold it last week) has a walk on roof. Yes, there's a piece of sheet metal on top but if you look from the side down the roof, you can see all the trusses underneath. I've been up there multiple times washing the roof and installing MaxxAir vent covers.

[BrianSF-GA]

Originally Posted by 1l243

I contacted Forest River when I bought my 30WR and they said it did not have a walk on roof.

Do you know how your 25ula roof is contructed? If you have a one piece aluminum roof it is laid on very thin luan right on the truss... Not very stable for walking on...

Unless they have changed the roof construction you can see not much support..

Yep, I sure do ... it is a seamless one-piece 14 gauge aluminum roof over 4" diameter roof rafters on 16" centers with solid cove molding edges. Our hauler is one of the new styles ... new-style nose cap and 6" taller. Our last hauler, a 2013 18EC, had a similar roof and perfectly suitable for walking on. I cannot imagine adding or removing a RV cover without being able to walk on the roof and have done it many times on each hauler.

[campnqueen]

According to FR our unit DOES NOT have a walk on roof. Many Work and Play units do not. We spend more time fixing and caring for this unit than we did for our wonderful little Gray Wolf that was half the price.

[CaptnJohn]

Originally Posted by campnqueen

According to FR our unit DOES NOT have a walk on roof. Many Work and Play units do not. We spend more time fixing and caring for this unit than we did for our wonderful little Gray Wolf that was half the price.

So ~~ to inspect the roof, do anything with AC or vents an industrial lift is required.
My 70s & 80s models had 3 or 4 piece metal roofs. Every 2 - 3 years you went up and painted with a fiber paint or at least sealed the seams. IMO a much better but heavier product.

[Blktegra]

I walk on mine all the time. Just stay on the trusses and I don't see any problem with it

[campnqueen]

UPDATE: We got our unit pressure tested.

It leaks around the right side wheel well, which I figured. It leaks and was NOT sealed around the back spot light and other exterior lights.

But WORST of all? The WHOLE roof needs to be resealed. We were told there was LOTS of sealant missing.... it was NEVER there. Most likely NEVER sealed at the factory during the build. MISSING sealant... NEVER there!! I am NOT happy!!

So now we are spending $$$ to get it repaired and sealed the RIGHT way. "ARGH"

[SeaDog]

Sorry to hear about your troubles, not sure how you are going about sealing but they do make a product that you can paint on to seal the roof.