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09-11-2011, 09:14 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Savage
Posts: 6
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2010 water heater question
Hi, I share a 17" 2010 roo with my parents. we took it on a trip to door county last week. my issue is with the hot water heater. we have a gas/electric heater. it seams as the electic was not working but the gas did work, but every time we used it I could only get a couple gallons of hot water out of it. The specs say it's a 6 gallon water heater. we had it winterized by the dealer last year, so that was done correctly. I'm wondering why we get so little hot water. I couldn't even take a navy shower with how little hot water we had. (being an army guy that's something)
I think we may have burnt the element on the electric by running out of water trying to give my 2yr old a bath. the camper is most used at our cabin as an extra sleeper. but have more recently tried traveling with it.
Thanks
Doug
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09-11-2011, 09:36 AM
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#2
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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Check your by pass valve.
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09-11-2011, 09:43 AM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Savage
Posts: 6
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What am I looking for on the by pass valve? I really dislike the manuals that came with this thing. I like the rig we just had a few issues initially with it. like heat switch not working and power converter not working...
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09-11-2011, 10:18 AM
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#4
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Phat Phrog Stunt Team
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Iowa
Posts: 34,507
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The by pass valve is normally behind hw heater . They shut it when they winterize.
the fact the you don't know where it is makes me believe its not open.
someone will post a pic if you need. But you'll understand once you find it
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09-11-2011, 10:20 AM
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#5
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Winston-Salem, NC
Posts: 2,381
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Locate your water heater on the outside. Now find the access panel on the inside that covers the back of it. Could be under a cabinet, under a bed, bottom of closet, etc. Remove the panel and access the back of the water heater. You will find some valves. Make sure the handles on the ones on the bottom line and the top line are in line with the tubing. There should also be one between these two lines, and that one the handle should be crossways to the tubing.
__________________
LadyWindrider
2012 Ford F250 ext. Cab 4x4
2002 Jeep Wrangler Sahara
2008 Yamaha V-Star 650 Classic
2008 Work and Play 18LT
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09-11-2011, 10:34 AM
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#6
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Savage
Posts: 6
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Thank you both. I found it. it was not in line with the hose. ours is under the dinette bench. about a foot away from the tank. i'll post a picture for others when I get some time. my 2yr old wants to play...
Regards
Doug
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09-11-2011, 11:25 AM
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#7
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Winston-Salem, NC
Posts: 2,381
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Now you need to make sure all the valves are in the right position. Then, at a later date, you can change the electric element if it still won't work on electric.
On the outside of the camper, open the water heater door. Locate the brass "pop off" valve, near the top of the tank,and raise that handle, make sure you have water flow there. (don't get burned by hot water). This will insure the tank is filling and working.
Look near the bottom left corner, and you'll see a black oval shaped plastic cover, the electric element is behind this. Make sure all 110 volt power is off before removing the cover. Best way is to unplug the trailer.
__________________
LadyWindrider
2012 Ford F250 ext. Cab 4x4
2002 Jeep Wrangler Sahara
2008 Yamaha V-Star 650 Classic
2008 Work and Play 18LT
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09-11-2011, 01:51 PM
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#8
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Site Team - Lou
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: South Eastern PA
Posts: 23,269
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My money is on the burned out element.
If you run out of water when using 120VAC to heat the water, you will burn out the element quickly. Easy to check with an ohm meter or DVM.
Remove the wires going to the element and place your tester across the spade connectors of the element. If "open" or infinite resistance the element is bad and you will need to replace it.
If "closed" and/or indicates a smaller resistance; then it is good and you should check the power at the Circuit breaker in the camper's power center.
__________________
Lou & Freya the wonder dog
2008 GMC Sierra 3000HD Allison Duramax
2019 Flagstaff 8529FL
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09-13-2011, 07:17 AM
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#9
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Savage
Posts: 6
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Is it easy to replace the element? and if so any idea how much they cost?
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09-13-2011, 10:12 AM
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#10
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 10,525
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You haven't told us the make and model # of your HWH so we are guessing.
IF you have a screw in element you can get a special large socket just for
them at Home Depot or Lowes or many major hardware stores.
The socket is stamped out of heavy sheet metal so it's not too expensive.
You might also be able to find a 120v screw in element at the same places.
Be SURE you get the 120v element and not 240v as most home HWH are
240v but a few apartment size are 120v and most all RVs are 120v.
You can also get the element at the parts counter of any decent RV
dealer. Also they are available online at many RV parts stores.
Cost for the element and socket probably less than $30.
Good Luck!
__________________
Peace!
Dan & Rita D
2017 Nissan Titan 5.6L King cab 4wd
2016 Evergreen Everlite 242RBS
29' empty nest model. Blue Ox WD hitch
(1 queen bed, large main cabin and huge bathroom)
Camping days 2010-53, 2011-47, 2012-41, 2013-41, 2014-31, 2015-40, 2016-44, 2017-63, 2018-75, 2019-32, 2020-41, 2021-49, 2022-43, 2023-66
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10-17-2011, 03:35 PM
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#11
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Savage
Posts: 6
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Update
The electric element cost me $24 and I found the sheet metal wrench. (almost like a large lawnmower spark plug wrench) at a hardware store for $8.
not nearly as bad as I thought it would be. I just need to loosen and move a couple pieces out of the way to replace it.
thanks for all the help.
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