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Old 04-03-2016, 11:54 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Stygshore View Post
I have 3 Queen sized beds was trying to figure if 4'X25' would be enough or not.

By the sounds of it the Reflectix can be beneficial for keeping in the cold for the AC as well?

Thanks

Styg
But you need the PUGs AND the Reflectix to really affect temp control.
Without the PUGs, the heat or cool will escape out the top of the tent end.

PUGs not only helps with temp control but helps eliminate condensation inside the tent fabric, keeps the canvas clean from sap and stains and darkens the ends for afternoon naps and late risers.
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Old 04-04-2016, 05:45 AM   #12
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You will be close with a 25 ft roll for the three bunks. I had plenty left over when I did our two bunk ends.

x2 what Dan said about condensation. Pugs and reflectix on a hybrid makes for another couple comfortable months of camping here in Michigan in my estimation.
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Old 04-04-2016, 07:38 AM   #13
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28 degrees is cold and your trailer, the 233S has 3 large holes in it for heat to escape. Definitely look into PUGs and a small cube heater (as you've mentioned).
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Old 04-04-2016, 05:14 PM   #14
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Styg, I did our 233S with one 4' x 25' roll. You definitely have to lay out carefully for it all to fit. I think I got the material at Lowes.

I made cardboard templates to get the sizes correct. The windows for the rear and side bunk ends are the same sizes; the side windows for the front bunk end are a slightly different size due to the sloping front wall of the trailer. Made the panels about an inch or two smaller on each side than the window pocket (just larger than the screening) so there is no issue zipping up the window flap.

The basic layout on the Reflectix roll is the large end window first, and the two side windows opposite on the roll with the sloped edges fitting together. To fit the three pieces within the four foot width, the side windows will extend slightly longer than the big end window. So best if all three panels (for each bunk end set) are laid out together to save length on the Reflectix roll. Given that the end window is about 7' or so, there is very little waste left from the 25' roll. I used some of the extra roll end to make a small sun block for the bathroom skylight and a few Reflectix panels for the dinette windows (which are not protected from direct sun by the awning).

Plus one on the High Wind Pop Up Gizmo's. Mine are mounted with Velcro. The whole bunk end folds up with the window Reflectix and PUG's left in place. Posted some pictures here:

Using velcro to attach popup gizmos.

We thought the furnace was pretty lame when we first used it without the extra insulation. I does seem to have less output than our old Jayco.

HTH

Stu
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Old 04-05-2016, 02:19 PM   #15
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Do you know about Popup Gizmos?
#1 Hybrid mod with Reflectix in the tent windows a close second.
Essential for temp control in the tent ends.
Do you have a picture you can post with how you did the reflectix?
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Old 04-05-2016, 02:27 PM   #16
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Do you have a picture you can post with how you did the reflectix?
No but most use a cardboard template to cut them out of a roll.
I'm lazier.
I just cut the length and simply folded the corners so they fit in each tent end window.
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Old 04-05-2016, 03:27 PM   #17
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Because it's our luck, bring home a new to us 2011 Shamrock and it drops to 28 degrees and starts snowing.

In the process of setting up and arranging storage in the Shamrock, we kicked on the heater. We noticed the only main living area vent was right by the door - seems a very inefficient spot to put the heater vent as I imagine some of the heat is sucked right outside. Th other vent is int he base of the shower,and it has very very low airflow. The large mesh screen in the front of the sink cabinet, which I thought would b the primary heat source has absolutely no air blowing out of it. Upon opening the mesh screen ( really hinge on top and bottom, that confused me ) There is just a flat metal plate with instructions on it, no slats, no louvers, nothing to allow hot air out of the heating system. I did take the end of the furnace off ( funny there are instructions on the inside of the cover as well ) And it blows air like mad out the mesh screen, but I have to assume this is not the normal operating configuration.

We had the heater on for about 40 Minutes and we could still see our breath inside the camper - is this normal? How long does it take to heat that space? I know with the Bunk ends down it is horribly inefficient, but our 12' Box Popup with double kings would get hot enough to drive you out of the thing in 30-40 minutes if you cranked the heater.

Is there a modification most of you do, a way to route the air other than by the doorway? We often find ourselves camping early or late season where the temps drop to the low 40's at night pretty regularly - I would like to not blow through my Propane tanks every other night trying to keep warm.

We are going to pick up a couple of 1500 watt Cube heaters to supplement, but I'm just worried something is wrong with the factor heating system.

Styg
the mesh screen is the cold air in , by taking off the front cover of the furnace you allowed all the hot air to blow right out instead of being forced into the cheap dryer vent hose and bs registers . you can modify the furnace to blow out the front mesh screen all the time . it will work better that way and heat faster , but may not put heat in any closed areas . check out ns furnace mod , adding insulation will help as others have mentioned.
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Old 04-05-2016, 04:52 PM   #18
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the mesh screen is the cold air in , by taking off the front cover of the furnace you allowed all the hot air to blow right out instead of being forced into the cheap dryer vent hose and bs registers . you can modify the furnace to blow out the front mesh screen all the time . it will work better that way and heat faster , but may not put heat in any closed areas . check out ns furnace mod , adding insulation will help as others have mentioned.
The mesh screen is the cold air return to the heater. That hot air has to come from some place!
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Old 04-06-2016, 10:11 AM   #19
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The mesh screen is the cold air return to the heater. That hot air has to come from some place!
that's what i said the mesh screen is the cold air in . the hot air comes from the furnace and is forced into the ducts . with the panel off the hot air is forced straight out instead of being pushed through the ducts . the furnace has openings on both sides that allows cold air in . i've modified mine to blow straight out sealed off between the furnace & cabinet front opening and now the cold air return is the hot out out . Sealed off where the ducts attached and now the vents [which where only 4 very small ones ] act as cold air returns to the furnace . much more efficient this way for those furnaces that were to small to begin with for the units size they were installed in . along with the piss poor installation of the furnace ducts and uninsulated dryer vent hoses.
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Old 04-06-2016, 07:00 PM   #20
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The reflectix does work for both cold & heat. During the summer put them on the sunny side & open the windows on the shady side. You'll need to move them around as the sun changes position, but it really does help keep the Roo cooler in the summer & warmer in the cooler seasons. We also made our own Gizmos by buying the space blankets at REI & then wife sewed in thin bungee cords fasten around the ends & use small clamps that we bought at Home Depot.
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