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Old 05-17-2015, 11:32 AM   #21
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How much of a Zamp panel do I need to charge the battery to get through the the next night? If we are relying on solar for ac what will the battery charge besides lights? Hot water is propane right? How about the water pump? We pick up our Roo this week and I want to get a Zamp portable unit that plugs into the port on the side of the Roo. I want to be sure I make the right choice for wattage.


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How much solar you need is dependent upon how much energy you use and thus need to replace. There are many many factors at play here so no one can tell you how large a solar set up to purchase. You'll have to understand your usage and buy accordingly. There is a ton of info in these forums - and even spreadsheets to help with your calculations.

Your message seems to indicate that you expect to run your air conditioner from solar?? You should probably rethink that. The draw to power an AC is huge and not many are willing to buy the huge solar systems and large battery banks, plus inverter to power an AC. It is usually better to buy a generator that can run your ac.
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Old 05-17-2015, 11:40 AM   #22
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You need at least 120Volts 15 amps to run AC, I am looking at the 120 Model but adding a secondary 12Volt Deep Cycle battery as a backup. I plan on running off each battery and toggle between them but have to see if I do any camping outside of a campground.


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If you're going through the effort of wiring in a 2nd battery, why not run them in parallel?

Assuming they are sized the same, you'll get better battery life if you draw in them in parallel (essentially operating as one bigger battery).

Shallower discharges put less strain on a battery as compared to deeper draws. So as one big battery, your two batteries should be discharging in the upper levels of the batteries and thus putting less strain on them as compared to drawing one battery down deeply before switching to the fresh battery.

Hope that makes sense...
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Old 05-17-2015, 11:41 AM   #23
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I'm not expecting air conditioning, just enough power to run fans, lights, and water pump, ...maybe a TV for movie length of time. We will drink tea instead of coffee, and not use the microwave, or toaster oven. I want to know more about the Zamp outlet on the new Roo. Does it automatically charge the battery when the panels are plugged in? Does the camper's inverter handle everything? Would it help to get bigger panels? I'm thinking bigger panels will certainly create more charge, and charge faster. So maybe an 80 watt Zamp panel set, instead of 40 watt. 100 or more watts might be overkill for our usage?


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Old 05-17-2015, 12:36 PM   #24
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How would you place 2 batteries on the frame behind the propane tanks?


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Old 05-17-2015, 12:52 PM   #25
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A 100 watt panel is only 7 amps of charge. Go big. That way on overcast or partly sunny days you can still have plenty of power. Then consider two 6 volt Golf cart batteries. The last longer and store a little more power. Good luck solar is awesome.
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Old 05-17-2015, 01:13 PM   #26
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I'm not expecting air conditioning, just enough power to run fans, lights, and water pump, ...maybe a TV for movie length of time. We will drink tea instead of coffee, and not use the microwave, or toaster oven. I want to know more about the Zamp outlet on the new Roo. Does it automatically charge the battery when the panels are plugged in? Does the camper's inverter handle everything? Would it help to get bigger panels? I'm thinking bigger panels will certainly create more charge, and charge faster. So maybe an 80 watt Zamp panel set, instead of 40 watt. 100 or more watts might be overkill for our usage?


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Ok - good that you are not trying to run air conditioner.

Fans, lights, water pump and entertainment system run on 12v. You could calculate their draw based upon their specs and your expected usage.

TV is 110v so you would need an 12v-110v inverter to use it.

Keep in mind that the trailer's "converter" takes 110v and converts it to 12v to power all the trailer's 12v draws and also to charge the batteries - when you are plugged in to 110v or a generator. It does not supply 110v back out to anything unless it is being powered itself by 110v.

To use a 110v appliance when you do not have 110v coming into the trailer, you need a 12v to 110v "inverter". Your trailer does not come with one as a default. An inverter needs to be matched to the draws you plan on placing on it, your battery bank's capacity and the required wave form of whatever you are planning on running from it. Some will work with a modified sine wave, others may require a pure sine wave.

I know all of this sounds complicated - because it is - at least until you get your head wrapped around it.

As for panel size, battery capacity, inverter size, etc, there are two ways of getting to an actionable answer.

One is to measure and calculate your usage/needs add a fudge factor and buy accordingly. This is the smart, right (and hard) way to do it.

The other way is to make some estimates, listen to what others are doing and make a WAG as to what you should do - and then buy accordingly. You may end up buying more or less then you need, so keep that in mind.

Here is what we run:
1 group 31 12v Interstate marine battery (called a deep cycle but marine batteries are not true deep cycle)
1 group 27 Interstate marine battery (carried as a spare)
200w of Renogy flex solar panels into a 30A PWM controller
1 400w Pure Sine Wave inverter to power the TV (LED TV is very low power)
We also have a generator that we sometimes bring and will be switching over to dual 6v deep cycle batteries when these marine batteries wear out.


On sunny days with our current set up, we typically have fully recharged our batteries by early afternoon. This is with moderate overnight use of the furnace (the biggest user of 12v power), heavier use of the water pump (typically 3 showers + dishes etc). Fans and lights. We are used to saving resources (as we moved up from a PUP) but are not energy misers.

So this set up works well for us in our typical usage. I've even stopped carrying a generator for most trips.However, last weekend we got caught in bad/cold weather and could not use our solar, and ended up draining both batteries and borrowing a generator for a few hours as a result.

But to answer one of your questions directly - yes bigger is almost always better when it comes to battery and solar capacity. I wouldn't bother with anything under 100w. The savings aren't there and you'll likely want to add more (probably matching) panels in the future. I would rather have 3 panels to get to 300w rather than 8x 40w - as an example.

Hope that helps some.
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Old 05-17-2015, 01:30 PM   #27
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Also, don't get fixated on the fact that your rig is set up with the "Zamp" plug for solar.

It is just a 12v SAE standard plug type - that is wired into the the battery circuit - there is nothing to it but a connection to the battery. You can buy its mate and wire in any (potentially non-Zamp) system you like into that same plug. Or, you can ditch that plug completely and wire a system of your choice directly into the battery as everyone has been doing for ages.

The real advantage of having the external Zamp/12v SAE plug is that it makes connecting/disconnecting a portable solar system fast and easy. It is more a a selling point for FR to sell the trailer as "Solar Ready" then anything (IMO).
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Old 05-17-2015, 01:53 PM   #28
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If you plan plan on dry camping, the first step is to add a 2nd battery, then go solar if you want. 2 batteries will get you at least 3 days of power.
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Old 05-17-2015, 04:40 PM   #29
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I do not think that it is practical to run even a small AC off the batteries. Remember most folks who run their AC have two 2000 watt Honda Generators or at least a single 3000 watt. To run AC on battery you will probably need at least a true 3000 watt inverter, with some real surge handling for start up and probably 6 or 8 good golf cart batteries. Then there is the issue of the 800 to 1200 watts of solar you will want to keep the batteries charged. We run about 270 amps of battery (three #24's) with a good quality 2000 watt sine wave inverter and have it cabled and fused for 300 amps. I could not run our 15000 btu AC for even a minute before the inverter would overload and cut off. A coffee maker (900 watts), 1100 watt microwave or the 1200 watt hair dryer can run for light to normal usage with acceptable battery drain but I do see the demand show up on the on the battery charge meter and we try to only use a big load in the morning when we know the solar will pull the charge way back up by Direct TV time in the evening and our night time furnace fan. Good Luck with a big enough solar and battery system to run the AC. It can be done, but few do it.
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Old 05-17-2015, 05:03 PM   #30
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Ouch my bad. Before getting on my soap box, I missed that you ARE NOT PLANNING TO RUN AC ---GOOD. I concur that more is better and when we need batteries again, I will be going to either some big'uns or golf cart batteries if they fit, (our bat box has height issues) and maybe we will go AGM all around for their generally longer life and better toleration of deep discharges. Close question as to cost effectiveness of AGM but as with all toys bigger and pricier must be better RIGHT?
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Old 05-17-2015, 05:57 PM   #31
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Thanks for all the tips, I was hoping you guys on the Forum would jump in. I know I will buy some solar panels now, and I'm trying to anticipate what I could actually grow into doing. I want to keep by battery charged at home without plugging in. But it would be amazing to camp in more natural places, without having to depend on campground resources. I am hoping to retire with this new Roo I pick up at the end of the week, and then my time is my own to go where I want.


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Old 05-17-2015, 06:00 PM   #32
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Does someone mount 2 batteries? On the front frame where the original one is?


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Old 05-17-2015, 06:48 PM   #33
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Does someone mount 2 batteries? On the front frame where the original one is?


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I did
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Old 05-17-2015, 07:24 PM   #34
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If you're going through the effort of wiring in a 2nd battery, why not run them in parallel?



Assuming they are sized the same, you'll get better battery life if you draw in them in parallel (essentially operating as one bigger battery).



Shallower discharges put less strain on a battery as compared to deeper draws. So as one big battery, your two batteries should be discharging in the upper levels of the batteries and thus putting less strain on them as compared to drawing one battery down deeply before switching to the fresh battery.



Hope that makes sense...

I hear you but I rarely go off the grid so to speak just prefer to have two good batteries charged all the time but I understand the diff between them just waiting to see next year if we are going to state parks, I do have a Subaru 5000 watt genset but prefer not to carry it



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Old 05-17-2015, 08:27 PM   #35
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Do you get something like a second battery box?


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Old 05-18-2015, 04:02 AM   #36
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Do you get something like a second battery box?


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Yes, just ordered a secondary 12 volt Camco box from Amazon and straps to hold the cover down. I will carry a second one just as a spare in case something happens to the primary one, for nothing more than a spare


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Old 05-18-2015, 04:51 AM   #37
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Does someone mount 2 batteries? On the front frame where the original one is?


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Yes, matching batteries.
I was able to mount two without any major mods.
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Old 05-26-2015, 07:58 PM   #38
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I just got my Roo, and I'm still trying to figure this out. Do I get 2 batteries to switch when one is empty? Or do I switch when the first is down...one third charge?


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Old 05-26-2015, 08:01 PM   #39
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That parallel thing sounds good too, but I'm not sure how to do that!


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Old 05-26-2015, 08:23 PM   #40
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Bikendan, what 2 batteries get you through 3 days? Just lights and 2 showers a day?


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