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Old 06-03-2017, 05:52 AM   #1
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2018 Roo 19 Initial Review

Proud to be part of the Roo crew. After a lot of research and calculations, our family purchased a brand new 2018 Roo 19. It has every bell and whistle as optioned by the dealership, and it looks fantastic. We are moving up from a 2008 Jayco 12HW PUP, so this is a big change in size and investment for us. We did the PDI, brought it home and swapped our gear over from the PUP....and are camping in it for the weekend. I also decided to purchase some additional gear that wasn't required for camping in the PUP. Andersen WDH, BAL X-Chocks, Andersen Levelers, and Rhino Flex stinky slinky. I will comment on them as well as the ROO.

The Roo will be used by our two children (5 & 3), and 55lb yellow lab and DW. It is being propelled by a 2007 Lexus GX470 (very similar to V8 4RUNNER), and will be used primarily for dry camping. Initial quality seems very good both inside and out, with the only real items worth noting being the excessive filler on nail holes. Fit and finish appear to be great, and sitting on the couch at 4:30am in a storm, I think it is doing a pretty good job at keeping the rain where it belongs. Outside storage is minimal and I am still puzzled by the rear cargo door being so tiny relative to the size of the storage area. Inside storage is abundant, but we aren't even close to being organized enough to go in depth on that topic yet.

Setting up the Andersen WDH was a breeze, 20 minutes and it was ready for the road. We have the latest version of the anti sway material (white in color), and I am interested to see how it holds up over time. Just as others noted in reviews, the brackets that mount to the ROO frame didn't stay perpendicular to the frame, which aesthetically bothers me, and I have plans to get them welded as advised by Andersen. This is much more refined and weights less then half of our Curt round bar WDH, which appears to be barbaric when the two are viewed side by side. We haven't hit the scales yet, but so far it felt balanced and composed with a slight cross wind at 55mph.

Our first trip was only 45 minutes away, and we took the back roads to make adjustments as needed. With empty holding tanks and minimal wind, our GX470's V8 had its hands full keeping us at 55 on winding and hilly county roads with the A.C. pumping in 86 degree heat. Compared to our PUP, the V8 did a fair amount more singing, but it pulled well. I would never suggest anything physically smaller or with less power than our GX has. This might give the excuse to buy the aftermarket intake I have been eyeing for a while.

After trimming 4-5" to fit between the tires, the Andersen leveling system worked pretty good. Back the Roo on w/ the DW holding a 2' level on the exterior wall, and we were set. The BAL X-chocks fit well between the tires, but it was a little tight and some finesse was required to get them into position. Using the electric tongue jack was nice to remove the TV from the ROO, but slow and noisy. I have zero experience with other electric jacks, so I am not qualified to say whether or not it's up to snuff compared to other models. I made wood blocks from a 6x6 treated board, and put a handle on each one to used to the tongue stabilizer jacks. Once they dry out I plan to paint them. So far the ROO doesn't move enough when my 260lb body is moving around the camper at 4:30am to wake the DW, so for now I will say the equipment is working as intended.

I will report back once we have used the Rhino Flex setup, but for now let's just say after what i just flushed down the toilet (which is fairly noisy when sitting upon it) I am not looking forward to using it!!

Moving forward we plan to add a second group 31 battery for our dry camping needs, which will require mods to the tongue. I am nervous that might be a little more tongue weight then I want (86lbs per battery), so i might follow dragon-roo's lead and install AGM batteries under the dinette for better weight distribution. We also have to figure out how to bring two adult bikes as well as the kids bikes (thinking dinette area and custom mounts?). A battery meter that displays voltage, and fridge heater mod will be on the list. Ohh....almost forgot to mention a light for the control panel. As much as I like to take chances, hitting the wrong light switch in the dark doesn't make you very popular amongst the group. We will also be sending Forrest River $150 for an additional year of warranty. Pretty cheap insurance if you ask me!

Overall we are very happy with the size, quality, and features of the ROO. Time will tell how it holds up, but for now we expect many happy years of camping.
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Old 06-03-2017, 06:51 AM   #2
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When we owned our Roo 23SS, I had some of the same equipment. For the X-Chocks, I partially disassembled them and I believe I elongated the adjustment hole, which allowed me to compress them more to fit between the tires. I, too, had to take some off the Andersen levelers. Bit by bit, but ultimately got them to fit.
We had a '04 Jeep Grand Cherokee as a TV for our Roo. It had a 4.7 HO engine and we strained it a bit pulling the 23SS. I was never totally comfortable with how much the engine seemed to work, but it served us well for several years.
Congrats on the new Roo. Enjoy it and
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Old 06-03-2017, 10:53 AM   #3
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If you are storing the X-chocks in their box, you'll find you need to rotate the pads that rest on the tires until they are "straight up and down" so they'll fit in the box. When you remove the X-chocks from the box to put on the tires, push the inside of the pads in, so they are more like where they'll be when resting against the tires. This makes them easier to get between the tires.

Suggest you read up on the Geo Method for keeping your black holding tank clean:

https://sites.google.com/site/cbruni/

I had a beefed up 2" receiver put on my Roo 19 (post #2) and my Mini Lite 2503S (post #12) here:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...oo-107358.html

They have worked very well for our 2 bikes. Not sure I'd put 4 on it, though.

Here's a pic of our Roo 19:
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There are several options for putting bikes on the tongue. Do some searching and you'll find them. One is called Jack-It by Lippert, it mounts around the tongue jack:

Jack-It Double Bike Carrier

There are some that mount right to the frame, like this one:

https://www.etrailer.com/RV-and-Camp...on/CC-275.html

These might interfere with your plan to add another battery, though.

Another thought for a couple bikes is just a strap on rack for the back of your TV. However, you will need to keep an eye on your total payload, as you may be pushing it already. Your allowable payload will be on a sticker on the drivers door frame. The advantage of bikes on the back of the Roo is that it lightens the tongue weight.
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Old 06-04-2017, 09:49 AM   #4
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Thanks for the x-chock tips. I will dig into them a bit and do plan to store them in their original box. I am going to wrap the outside with gorilla tape to extent its life.

I plan to utilize the GEO method for cleaning the tanks. Gross! Unfortunately the local Menards had 5" vinyl fence post, but with holes cut in them. No solid posts.

I am glad to see the bike rack on the back didn't upset the balance while towing. I agree the tongue rack might interfere with the batteries, but I am still on the fence regarding buying AGM batteries and putting them under the dinette.

I have used the RVQ grill three times now...works great.
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Old 06-04-2017, 07:42 PM   #5
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This works for us. I requires bringing a small step stool and enough room on the tow vehicle.

We love our Shamrock 19. We're on our second full year.

[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 06-04-2017, 08:38 PM   #6
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Nice roof rack setup. I really want to get a canoe and associated gear to add for our wknd fun. I don't have the ability to mount bikes two deep like you.

We dumped for the first time and to my surprise the hose at the dump station actually had the ability to be hooked up to the flush fitting. Kinda gross how much came out of the tank after the first drain.

Using both fans on hi w/ the windows and door closed helped when folding up the ends.

A stiff head and cross wind on the way home had my TV working pretty good. But the Andersen setup did really well. My Lexus had airbags which have a HI setting and combined with the electric tongue jack, I never had to mess with adjusting the nuts. Just bolt it up and go.
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Old 06-05-2017, 09:52 AM   #7
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I had a Roo19 before moving up to an 23IKSS it was a great camper for us but we came upon a good deal on the 23IKSS. We pulled the Roo19 with a Trailblazer even in the smokies. It pulled alright but was tough to maintain a speed over 60 mph.

It sounds like you are doing everything right. Have fun! Let the mods begin!
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Old 06-06-2017, 07:13 AM   #8
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Brainstorming ideas on how to add a second handle or pull at the bottom of the screen door, so our 3 & 5yo don't have such a difficult time getting into the camper.

Also thinking about a stabilizer for the steps, as they strain under the 260lb load I am putting on them.

I also need to seal the plastic covers for latches on the bunk ends. They collect water when in the open position, and proceed to dump the collected water on you when folding up the ends.
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Old 06-06-2017, 01:39 PM   #9
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I can't think of a way of opening the door from down low but I riveted this piece of aluminum to save the screen. My kids were pushing the door shut via the screen.

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Old 06-06-2017, 03:59 PM   #10
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Neat idea to save the screen. I think I might put a piece of acrylic in that lower portion of the door to protect the screen.
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Old 06-08-2017, 07:26 AM   #11
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Found a local fence company that had a 5" vinyl blank fence post and caps. Now I can work on mounting it and find a vinyl gutter for inside. My Rhino Flex will be so happy.

Trying to work around the issue of our 3 & 5yo having a very difficult time with opening the screen door, and eventually the outside door. The Stromberg EZ Open handle will be added to the outside door, and I will add another handle at the bottom of the door w/ a cable attached to the main handle for the screen door.
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Old 06-08-2017, 08:46 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonshonda View Post
Found a local fence company that had a 5" vinyl blank fence post and caps. Now I can work on mounting it and find a vinyl gutter for inside. My Rhino Flex will be so happy.

Trying to work around the issue of our 3 & 5yo having a very difficult time with opening the screen door, and eventually the outside door. The Stromberg EZ Open handle will be added to the outside door, and I will add another handle at the bottom of the door w/ a cable attached to the main handle for the screen door.
I got my gutter from Lowe's"
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Old 06-08-2017, 08:59 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockfordroo View Post
I got my gutter from Lowe's"
I don't have a Lowes or Home Depot anywhere near me. I live in the town John Menard grew up in, so there is no chance of either coming to town.
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Old 06-08-2017, 09:51 AM   #14
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Here is how I mounted my fence post. I cut my post to barely fit the hose when compressed with enough room to place the adapter in the end so I don't need a gutter to pull it out. I compress it as I push it in then place the cap on.




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Old 06-08-2017, 10:43 AM   #15
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Jon:

There are lots of ways to attach the fence post. I attached mine by using SS bolts and fender washers to capture the bottom flange of the I-beam of the frame. That way I didn't have to drill any holes in the frame. I had this on the Roo 19 for 3 years, then removed it and it's been on my Mini Lite for 2-1/2 yrs. The 1st pic is on the Roo. The 2nd pic showing the bolting attachment is on my Mini Lite; I had painted it black to match the bottom of the TT. There are two bolts/washers on the other side of the flange of the I beam. See the drawing I attached for details.

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1988 Coleman Sequoia - popup (1987-2009) - outlasted 3 Dodge Grand Caravans!
2012 Roo19 - hybrid (2012-2015)

2016 Mini Lite 2503S - tt (2015 - ???)
2011 Traverse LT, 3.6L, FWD
2009 Silverado 1500 Ext Cab, 5.3L, 4x4, 3.73
2016 Silverado 2500HD Dbl Cab, 6.0L 4x4, 4.10
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Old 06-08-2017, 10:59 AM   #16
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on my 2017 233s the cross beams already had slits cut into them. I used these as holes vs drilling my own. They took a 1.4" bolt. I used 1.5" washers, lock washer and nylon locking nuts.
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Old 06-08-2017, 11:27 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hamster View Post
Here is how I mounted my fence post. I cut my post to barely fit the hose when compressed with enough room to place the adapter in the end so I don't need a gutter to pull it out. I compress it as I push it in then place the cap on.[/IMG]
I figured the purpose of the gutter was so that you didn't have to slide the hose in and out of the tube, thus cutting down on the abrasion which is why people don't like the metal bumper storage method. I am sure the vinyl is more friendly to the hose though.


Quote:
Originally Posted by rockfordroo View Post
Jon:

There are lots of ways to attach the fence post. I attached mine by using SS bolts and fender washers to capture the bottom flange of the I-beam of the frame. That way I didn't have to drill any holes in the frame. I had this on the Roo 19 for 3 years, then removed it and it's been on my Mini Lite for 2-1/2 yrs. The 1st pic is on the Roo. The 2nd pic showing the bolting attachment is on my Mini Lite; I had painted it black to match the bottom of the TT. There are two bolts/washers on the other side of the flange of the I beam. See the drawing I attached for details.
I like it!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by wardster View Post
on my 2017 233s the cross beams already had slits cut into them. I used these as holes vs drilling my own. They took a 1.4" bolt. I used 1.5" washers, lock washer and nylon locking nuts.
I will have to look under my camper to see what the frame looks like.

This is the storage box I have drawn for the front tongue area. Access will require the bunk end to be in the folded position, but that is easy enough. Fishing poles, 8x10' canopy, life vests, camping chairs...etc will be stored in there. I might do batteries too, but am still strongly thinking about the dinette area for some agm batteries.
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Old 06-08-2017, 12:13 PM   #18
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I put a plexiglass window in my LP tank cover so I could see the auto-switchover regulator with the bunk down.
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__________________
1988 Coleman Sequoia - popup (1987-2009) - outlasted 3 Dodge Grand Caravans!
2012 Roo19 - hybrid (2012-2015)

2016 Mini Lite 2503S - tt (2015 - ???)
2011 Traverse LT, 3.6L, FWD
2009 Silverado 1500 Ext Cab, 5.3L, 4x4, 3.73
2016 Silverado 2500HD Dbl Cab, 6.0L 4x4, 4.10
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Old 06-08-2017, 01:01 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockfordroo View Post
I put a plexiglass window in my LP tank cover so I could see the auto-switchover regulator with the bunk down.
I thought of your mod when the tech was talking me through the PDI. My regulator is pointed towards the rear of the Roo, so the window wouldn't work w/o me flipping the regulator around. I am sure it can be done, just have to take a look.
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Old 06-12-2017, 07:42 AM   #20
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Mounted 3 Group 31 Duracell AGM batteries under the seat in the dinette. Ran 4 gauge to the converter (up from 8ga). They fit in there pretty good and get the weight just forward of the front axle. Glad I played w/ it this wknd too, as FR forgot to add any lock washers to the nuts that secure the wires to the circuit breaker.

Finished up the stinky slinky fence post mod

Added the Dometic Step brace

Added the second handle down low on the screen door to the kids can open the door easily

Had to pry open the front bunk end and found they seals adhered themselves to the bunk end. Called the dealer to order new seals. I am sure it will be months before I get it back.
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