233s interior outlet wiring

[mitchlandry]

Hey all,

We have a 2016 233s and I've noticed all interior outlets are wired to the same 15A breaker. Being a 3 bunk model and with 3 mattress heaters running, this leaves little overhead for anything else to run. Add in any electronics charging or whatever gadgets the kids bring on top of that.

While this shouldn't be a problem in the upcoming warmer months, it did cause issues in the winter (in TX, camp all year) as we brought along an electric heater to save on propane. Yep, that doesn't work too well. I can get to run with all on low, but on the chili nights, it's not quite enough.

Has anyone rewired any interior outlets to a different breaker? I thought about wiring the one on the side of the oven by the door to the microwave circuit as we really don't use it. The issue was really only at night, so i could even tap to an outside outlet that wouldn't be in use.

Thoughts, suggestions?

[PSU Turf]

The biggest hassle would be actually gaining access to the wires. I assume residential electric code applies to the 110 volt wiring in RVs. It would be easy to just splice some wires wherever they run (under cabinet, through utility area, etc) but splices must be in a junction box. Junction boxes must be exposed, not covered by paneling. You would probably have to run all new wires to meet code.

[jking46]

Much easier if you run an extension cord from the 15 amp plug on the power pole. Not as neat but much aesier.

[Mainframe]

Wiring to code is very doable, just make sure you use heavy enough wire and I think tagging along with the microwave is a good idea and sounds like your quickest and easiest choice. All connections must be in a box and you have to be able to get to them if needed , as previously stated.

An RV electric furnace insert is something you may want to consider if you plan on keeping your camper for a long time (actually you could remove it and transfer it to another camper if you wanted)
I plan to get this next year (I have spent enough money this year LOL)

CheapHeat

Also you could look into a heat strip for the inside of your A/C unit, many A/C units have a place inside already wired to accept this ad on, you then could run the A/C heater all night without doing any other major wiring. (It basically turns your A/C unit into a big hair dryer)
(I am going to look into doing this over the winter, If I am able to install this into my A/C unit and it gives off a fair amount of heat, I will forgo the Electric furnace insert)
Here is a link to a heat strip, it is an example of what they are, I don't know if it is exact fit for your camper, I am just showing you what they look like.

Dometic Brisk 2 Air Conditioner Ducted Heat Strip | RV Parts Country

I don't know if there is room in the Electric panel to ad a separate circuit for a heater but if there is it would be something an electrician could do or guide you on if you are handy.

Keep us posted and let us know what you do.

[cpd1343]

There should be a space for an extra breaker. If not, you can buy a full width double breaker. It fits two breakers into the space for one. I added an extra breaker and outlet to our kitchen island. You can also add one next to the breaker panel. That is about as easy as you will get.

[Flybob]

Before you spend a lot of time and money modifying the wiring, verify that you have enough capacity to support it. Since your problem is primarily during cold weather, you most likely have some form of heat, ( current draw) and also using fridge, converter and lights and maybe water heater. These additional items may be consuming most of your remaining 15A. You can not always count on additional capacity at the pedestal as most campgrounds use a tree architecture for their power. This means that upstream from the 30A site pedestals there is a 100A breaker protecting three of them, therefore there is not a guaranteed 15A surplus at all three pedestals ( using the household outlet.)

[Finster]

I think some rewiring is very doable, assuming you can gain access to the wiring. I have a 2017 233s, and will be looking to do the same thing soon, at least for the outside outlet. We found out this past weekend that they were all on the same breaker. My wife was inside brewing a pot of coffee while I was outside using an electric skillet to cook breakfast. We couldn't manage to keep the pot of coffee warming and use the skillet at the same time without tripping that breaker. I eventually pulled out an extension cord and plugged the skillet into the power pedestal, but that's kind of a PIA. Id much rather just have the power available at the outside outlet as we prefer to do most of our cooking outside if we can help it.

[bjraektet]

We just took delivery of our 2017 233S Adding an outlet would probably be quite simple, but from what we were told is that the outlet on the side of the oven is the GFCI outlet that all others feed off of. The wiring may be different with previous years, but one way to test is to trip the GFCI outlet and then check the other outlets to see if they have power. One location I would try that should be relatively close to wire is adding a separate outlet in the lower part of the entertainment center. With the breaker box under the refrigerator, they would be close in proximity to each other. If you are looking for same type of outlets, I found them on Amazon if you search "self containing rv outlet". Good Luck!

For some reason our 233S doesn't have an outlet for the rear bed heated mattress, so I plan on adding an outlet in the rear corner behind the bathroom and run it off the other rear outlet.

[Buckeyecmpr]

A couple years back, I had the crews at the FR rally add one outlet and a dedicated breaker. I can now actually run 2 space heaters during the winter months, pointed towards each trailer end. One on the new outlet and one on the original. The outlet was added right next to the breaker panel near the existing one (left of panel, facing rear of trailer, under fridge.) Guessing it was maybe 1 foot of wire, at most. Works great and have had zero issues with it. I explained to them the predicament of the existing load handling...kinda hoped they would have used that idea in future units.

[mitchlandry]

Originally Posted by bjraektet

For some reason our 233S doesn't have an outlet for the rear bed heated mattress, so I plan on adding an outlet in the rear corner behind the bathroom and run it off the other rear outlet.

My rear bunk is the same, have to share the same outlet as the side bunk. Run warmer plug under mattress up to head area then to plug. I think that was dumb planning as well, but it's manageable.

[mitchlandry]

Thanks for the replies. We are taking it out this weekend, so I'll dig around and see what I can do.

[RCCS]

I reworked the wiring in our 23IKSS last year. All the 120 volt outlets in and outside the trailer were on one 15 amp circuit which first fed power to the GFI receptacle in the bathroom and then to all the others including the one on the island and the kitchen counter. I actually did not add any wire to the circuit at all and actually took out 30 feet of wire the factory had installed in the process. I added one duplex 15 amp circuit breaker to the panel. I took out the rv receptacles from the island and kitchen counter and cut in residential type rework boxes deep enough to use a GFI receptacle in each one. Now I have a single circuit for the island and one for the counter by the stove. I could not believe how the factory had run the wiring in the camper, like I said, I took out 30 feet of wire in the process and did not add any at all and still have everything working. By the way I have been an electrician for 43 years now.

[deartruc]

Recommend the PI HW30 which gives you power protection and a display to watch your amperage.

[cheeseheadjim]

RCCS I am going to do the same to my 23IKSS. We are out in it for the first time and popped the breaker when we turned on the coffee maker as the electric skillet was been used for pancakes. How did you route the wiring for the two new circuits for the island outlets and counter top outlet?



2017 Shamrock 23IKSS
2011 Ram 1500

[MuddauberE]

Just take it back and let the dealer fix it. I had this same issue on a 2007 when it was new. Guess they still have the same people working there

[Flashg_123]

We do the same as jking46 - run an extension cord from the pole thru a bunk to the second heater. Not a permanent fix, but cheap & easy.