233S pointed bunk corners

[the8re]

Now that we've signed on our Roo, we have a few months to plan our next steps before we take delivery in April. The only real negative we found with the Roo were the pointed metal corners of the tip-out bunks. Has anyone had a problem running into these and/or come up with a protector for them? We were thinking about carving up a pool noodle, but that seems like a kludgy solution for an otherwise well designed TT.

What are your thoughts?

-t

[sdelam]

Never had a issue with mine. (Knock on wood). However my youngest feel inside the camper and got 5 stitches from the cabinet door.

[force]

Yes...and I use pool noodles, in as non-kludgy a way as possible

[ependydad]

force's solution is a common one for RVs with slide outs. I personally use a small piece of pipe insulation to protect my noggin against corners on a slide right out side of my hookups area + a hatch.

[bikendan]

these might work and you might want them on your slideout:

Slideout Corner Guards - Black - Camco 42203 - Slideouts & Storage Bays - Camping World

[force]

Good find Dan! I don't bump my head as often (if ever) on the slide out as the bunks, but every little bit of padding helps. Looks like those can stay on permanent too (unlike pool noodles)

[mjones12]

Originally Posted by force

Good find Dan! I don't bump my head as often (if ever) on the slide out as the bunks, but every little bit of padding helps. Looks like those can stay on permanent too (unlike pool noodles)

Those are great for corners, but I like the idea of protecting the entire length of the slideout bottom with the pool noodles. I guess corners are the most dangerout spots, but the bottom edge can crack your head pretty good, too. What is the best tool for cutting the pool noodles to the appropriate length?

[force]

I didn't shorten mine at all, but I used my pocket knife (or razor / box cutter) to slice the entire length of the noodle so I could slip it over the bunk edge. I also cut a small wedge out of it where at the bend point so it wasn't fighting extra foam material.

I don't have a picture of that part but once you bend it in place, where you need to carve out the extra foam will become apparent.

[RedStick]

I backed in to the front bed with my truck last year, but I've not bonked my head or anything yet.

I wonder if the pool noodle would have eased my trucks pain?

[mjones12]

Originally Posted by force

I didn't shorten mine at all, but I used my pocket knife (or razor / box cutter) to slice the entire length of the noodle so I could slip it over the bunk edge. I also cut a small wedge out of it where at the bend point so it wasn't fighting extra foam material.

I don't have a picture of that part but once you bend it in place, where you need to carve out the extra foam will become apparent.

Gotcha. Thanks for the info.

[Cowracer]

Thats one of the nice things about having a 21SSL. Pretty much impossible to bonk your head on the front bunk corners.

LOL

TIm

[FourWheelers]

Originally Posted by force

Yes...and I use pool noodles, in as non-kludgy a way as possible

Looking at your photo of the 233S and noticed the canvas material doesn't cover the corners and edges like my 2011 model. Is this a change in design in newer models?

[KMP44]

Originally Posted by FourWheelers

Looking at your photo of the 233S and noticed the canvas material doesn't cover the corners and edges like my 2011 model. Is this a change in design in newer models?

Yes. They changed the tent ends so now they are permanently attached and they are shorter - no flap to cover the outside edge.

[FourWheelers]

Originally Posted by KMP44

Yes. They changed the tent ends so now they are permanently attached and they are shorter - no flap to cover the outside edge.

Hmmm.
I'll be at the Atlantic City RV show next weekend. I'll have to look around for the new Roos and check it out.

[bikendan]

yep, when they discontinued the snaps/bungee tent ends, they went to the pre-attached canvas which doesn't cover the edges of the bunk doors.

[FourWheelers]

I assume that also helps with water intrusion when the bunk is closed. Hope to see a Forest River rep at the show.

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by FourWheelers

I assume that also helps with water intrusion when the bunk is closed. Hope to see a Forest River rep at the show.

not sure what you are thinking helps with water intrusion when the bunk end is closed.
the pre-attached canvas? water intrusion has to do with the seals around the door, when it's closed, and has nothing to do with the canvas.

[urocav2001]

I'm thinking he is talking about if the water does happen to get by the outside seal and sneaks in the canvas is already attached and sealed so the water would have less of a chance to get into the unit...

[FourWheelers]

Originally Posted by urocav2001

I'm thinking he is talking about if the water does happen to get by the outside seal and sneaks in the canvas is already attached and sealed so the water would have less of a chance to get into the unit...

That's exactly what I'm talking about. I've had to modify my 2011 233S to keep water from getting past the seal. Once it does, there is no second preventative measure.

The canvas being sealed to the bunk might prevent any water passing the seal from entering the unit. I'll look at the new units at the shows.

[bikendan]

the pre-attached canvas will not prevent the water from intruding into the hinge area, which is generally where all the problems occur because the water will pool there.
either the wood around the hinge area gets soft or leaks into the storage area underneath or it can be absorbed into the bunk door at the hinge and cause delam.
the current canvas doesn't prevent that, anymore than the older style. if you look at it, which i have carefully, the canvas tent end "bridges" over the hinge area but has no effect in stopping water that gets past the seals to pool in the hinge.
the only thing it does is prevent water entering the canvas tent from the edges.

that's why good seals and constant vigilance/maintenance is the key.