23SS Door Closer

Lifetimer · 04-16-2012, 09:31 AM

We went on our first camping trip this past week in our new 23SS. As we are sitting eating outside and my DH notices that the screws are coming out of the door on the door closer. He tries to tighten them and find that they are stripping. What do I do? My dealer is in Ohio! I am in TN the only dealer around my want to keep it forever and I have camping trips planned over the next 8 weeks. Can anyone give some suggestions on what we can do to fix this ourselves? DH is afraid to do anything that will hurt the warranty

Thanks!

**bikendan** · 04-16-2012, 09:33 AM

take the door closer off and wait till you get home to have it repaired.

older Roos didn't even have them. my '07 Roo 23SS doesn't have a door closer.

Triguy · 04-16-2012, 09:35 AM

Is your dealer RVW?

If so, call them, send pictures and have them talk with you about a solution. Then, ask them to write up a warranty ticket and send your DH the parts for him to fix. You will not void your warranty and it has the extra benefit of starting a paper trail.

OldCoot · 04-16-2012, 09:39 AM

The doors & sides are not fabricated out of material that will sustain the constant stresses from the gas cylinder. Most people just take the cylinders off and leave them off. It was a good idea if they would have just reinforced the anchor points, but they didn't.

biken201 · 04-16-2012, 09:43 AM

I've opted to repair a few warranty issues myself, and FR was all too happy to send me the parts to do it. There was no issue with it affecting my warranty, and it saves them the time and money to pay someone else to do it. I have the peace of mind of knowing it was properly repaired/replaced.

wiesenbornk · 04-16-2012, 08:03 PM

We had the same problem with our Roo 23ss on like our third trip out. My DH put larger diameter screws in, but isn't confident it will hold.

newtsx3 · 04-16-2012, 11:27 PM

Same exact problem with my Roo. I chose to drill completely through the door and use bolts and a small metal plate on the inside for extra support. Seems to be much sturdier now. Just be careful not to over tighten the bolts or you can crush the door.

baldy · 04-19-2012, 12:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by newtsx3

Same exact problem with my Roo. I chose to drill completely through the door and use bolts and a small metal plate on the inside for extra support. Seems to be much sturdier now. Just be careful not to over tighten the bolts or you can crush the door.

Same as what I did 2 years ago. Holds up to my DD with no issues yet. I used stainless machine screws and acorn nuts on the inside.

newtsx3 · 04-19-2012, 06:41 AM

Yes, that is what I used as well. Stainless steel. I also put a thin layer of butyl putty behind the closer bracket outside the door to keep H2O out.

**Herk7769** · 04-19-2012, 07:43 AM

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ned-21504.html

See post 3.

Get rid of that door closer all together before it destroys your door and frame like it did mine. Put a keeper latch like the old days.

This is one "improvement" they can keep.

OldCoot · 04-19-2012, 08:22 AM

Herk is correct, GET RID OF THE CLOSER! Ours was loose from the factory. Removed it for 3 reasons, 1st and foremost, it will either tear up the door or the wall, 2) It limits the door opening 3) Makes the door harder to close

**Herk7769** · 04-19-2012, 08:58 AM

I went back "under warranty" twice for door adjustments due to it being "hard to lock." The Tech kept hitting the door frame with a block of wood till it could lock.

Of course by the time I got it home; same issue, so I gave up.
Then, when the bolts started pulling out I replaced them with through bolts. That made the door impossible to lock with the deadbolt.

While troubleshooting I realized the closer was 100% of the problem from the beginning. When I brought the closer back to the so called "dealer" they gave me the "Reserve Salute" and said "Out of Warranty; Adios".

Amazon.com: Entry Door Holder, T-Style, 45 deg, Metal: Automotive

Just remember to get the 45 degree bend one. DO NOT waste your money on the plastic one. Lasted exactly 1 week before it broke and my "permanent fix" had to be completely redone.

newtsx3 · 04-19-2012, 10:22 AM

Thanks for the info. I will certainly investigate the possibility of using a traditional keeper latch but I don't think I have room due to the position of my awning arms. With the awning deployed my door can only open slightly past 90 degree before it would hit the awning arm. Does the door have to open all the way to the side of the trailer to use the keeper latch?

OldCoot · 04-19-2012, 10:24 AM

No, you will just have to position the grabber on the wall & door to prevent that. It will be closer to the door hinge than normal, but will still work.

**Herk7769** · 04-19-2012, 08:33 PM

They also have various lengths.
A 6 inch one with a 45 degree bend (METAL) would be best.

**bikendan** · 04-19-2012, 09:20 PM

i asked about retrofitting the hydraulic closer to our '07 Roo's door, at our local Roo dealer.
i was advised not too, because they had nothing but problems with them.

newtsx3 · 04-19-2012, 11:20 PM

I have to admit that I find mine quite handy, especially when heading out the door with a platter full of steaks for the grill. But I will be keeping a close eye on it after hearing about the problems others have had with them.

gbpacker · 04-21-2012, 11:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bikendan

i asked about retrofitting the hydraulic closer to our '07 Roo's door, at our local Roo dealer.
i was advised not too, because they had nothing but problems with them.

I also asked my dealer to install a door closer on my 2009 23SS. He recommended that I not do so as they haves had problems since day one.

To keep the door open, I use a short bungee cord attached to the awning support. works well and we do not pull out the plastic 90 degree latch.

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