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Old 06-14-2016, 04:50 PM   #11
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no voltage from black to white. I did see on the panel description the second breaker it says GFCI along with fridge. I don't know where that would.
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Old 06-14-2016, 04:52 PM   #12
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If there's significant voltage between ground and neutral you definitely have an open neutral. You need to unhook it from shore power until you find it. If it hasn't already fried a bunch of appliances.
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Old 06-14-2016, 04:55 PM   #13
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I change my diagnosis. It looks like you have a hot neutral. You need to spend some time finding it, but be very careful. remember there is voltage between hot and ground and between neutral (white) and ground.
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Old 06-14-2016, 06:12 PM   #14
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there is no voltage from white to black, which. The front panel cover has a description for every breaker, the second breaker says GFCI, fridge. I don't know where that GFCI would be.
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Old 06-14-2016, 08:02 PM   #15
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there is no voltage from white to black.
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Old 06-14-2016, 08:40 PM   #16
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OK, let's follow the fault.

1. You have voltage from the hot to ground. That means that the hot (black) line is good to where your are testing.

2. You have no voltage DIFFERENCE between the black and white. I suspect that the neutral circuit has been broken somewhere and some LOAD attached beyond the point of the break is feeding "HOT" back to the neutral wire.

Please do this test just to confirm what you have already stated:

Do you have 120 volts between the ground and BOTH the black and white wire?

If so, try this:

Monitor the ground to neutral voltage and switch off one circuit breaker at a time. By this I mean start at one end of the line of breakers and turn one off, then check the G-N voltage. If it still exists, leave that breaker off and then turn the next breaker off also. At some point, I suspect that you will have the G-N voltage drop to zero. That will confirm my idea from point 2 above.

The most likely cause of an open circuit on either the neutral or hot is the "Back Stab" connections at an outlet. They happen much more often in RV use that in home use because of the vibration caused by road travel.
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Old 06-14-2016, 08:56 PM   #17
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well I don't have 120 at white and black, that tells me the neutral white is open. I gained access to the power end going into the trailer. there is the problem the receptacle white was loose, I have to pull the plug out of TT an repair the white wire conection
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Old 06-14-2016, 09:09 PM   #18
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thanks for your help everybody. Im not a big texer haha, but its nice to know there are fellow campers out there that are willing to help people out.
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Old 06-14-2016, 09:11 PM   #19
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Great news!

Is the bad connection a screw connection?

Thanks for the reminder. I need to check the screws on all the breakers and buss bars before the big Summer trip. I will look at the inlet socket also.
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Old 06-14-2016, 09:28 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluepill View Post
I need to check the screws on all the breakers and buss bars before the big Summer trip. I will look at the inlet socket also.

Good idea, but what I found while installing my hard wired EMS was all the AC connections were overtightened. The square drive heads on both the neutral and ground bars as well as all the breakers were stripped out to the point that you're never getting them loose if needed. On the DC side the heavy gauge ground to chassis was loose and the negative wire to battery pulled out of its lug just from moving the power center around.

Great QC on the electrical inspections. I feel so secure having that RVIA certification sticker.
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