Anode Rod and winterizing

[dslakamp]

We have had difficulty removing the anode rod when it was left in by our dealer during winterization. Has anyone else has this problem and should the rod always be removed when winterizing. Thanks

[Flybob]

If the anode is installed without Teflon tape or not removed for some time, it can be hard to remove. You may have to use a breaker bar for more torque. I recommend removing once a year just to prevent the threads seizing.

[SeaDog]

welcome to the forum its a great place to get your questions answered. What rig do you have

[Kimber45]

I pull mine any time the unit sits for more then 3 weeks. Ive never had a problem getting mine out, but im sure not to over tighten. I have the correct sized socket (so not to strip) on a very short ratchet (so not to over tighten) in my camper tool box.

[Oaklevel]

We remove the anode rod to drain the water heater once a year for winterizing and put it back with Teflon tape never had a problem.

[Mr. Dan]

Originally Posted by Oaklevel

We remove the anode rod to drain the water heater once a year for winterizing and put it back with Teflon tape never had a problem.

Same here.

[CHICKDOE]

ditto. a dedicated short handle ratchet with the proper socket and some rolls of teflon tape. i also drain it when it is going to sit. many time i actually drain it as we head for home as 12 gallons of water in the heater is 100 lbs that i don't have to carry.

[rockfordroo]

If it's a Suburban, it needs a 1-1/16" socket. Preferably a 6 point, not a 12.

It is my understanding that Atwoods use a 15/16" socket.

I remove mine to drain in the fall, then re-install with teflon tape; it stays that way until NEXT fall. Never had an issue removing it.

[OldCoot]

Always remove ours after each trip to drain the water and then just hand screw it back in about 1 turn to keep varmints out. When we get ready to go, I remove it, wrap 2 or 3 turns of Teflon tape on it and screw it back in and tighten. Never had a problem. I do take an air hose to it when it's empty to blow out all the sediment in the bottom. You'd be surprised at the amount from only 2-3 months of use.

[Cold Lake Kid]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

Always remove ours after each trip to drain the water and then just hand screw it back in about 1 turn to keep varmints out. When we get ready to go, I remove it, wrap 2 or 3 turns of Teflon tape on it and screw it back in and tighten. Never had a problem. I do take an air hose to it when it's empty to blow out all the sediment in the bottom. You'd be surprised at the amount from only 2-3 months of use.

How do you blow it out?
I feel a lot of sediment in the bottom of my tank. I gave it a bit of a back flush with water, but your way sounds better.

[jimmoore13]

Originally Posted by dslakamp

We have had difficulty removing the anode rod when it was left in by our dealer during winterization. Has anyone else has this problem and should the rod always be removed when winterizing. Thanks

Your dealer's a creep.

The anode should be left in the water heater to prevent entry by bugs, etc. If the anode is out, it's possible for mosquitoes to lay eggs in the standing water left in the tank...and other bugs to enter in search of water and refuge.

Finger tight should be enough unless there is a substantial amount of RV anti-freeze in the heater tank, and to that, I'd ask "why??" The heater should be bypassed and drained...with no antifreeze added, so a loose fit on the anode is enough to keep out the vermin without enabling the anode to rust in place.

As others have said, use teflon tape or "pipe dope" on the threads to prevent seizing (rusting) in place. Alternatively, any number of "lubricants" such as Vaseline or a lip balm can also be used on the threads to lube them with something non-toxic.

Personally, my plug/anode in my water heater is positioned awkwardly behind the burner tube. The weight of the anode makes it difficult to avoid cross threading when wrapped with teflon tape, so I like the pipe dope option.

I leave mine finger tight, and when I've de-winterized, I fill the fresh tank, start the pump, and let the HW tank fill a bit. Once there are a couple gallons of fresh water in the tank, I pop the plug and let that flush out any stale water or residue from over-wintering, then plug it up tight. Good to go.

[hack522]

Originally Posted by dslakamp

We have had difficulty removing the anode rod when it was left in by our dealer during winterization. Has anyone else has this problem and should the rod always be removed when winterizing. Thanks

I do my own winterizing and remove it to insure the hot water heater is drained fully.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by Cold Lake Kid

How do you blow it out?
I feel a lot of sediment in the bottom of my tank. I gave it a bit of a back flush with water, but your way sounds better.

I have a pc of copper tubing soldered to an air nozzle end and just stick the tube all the way in the anode hole. I even move it around to try to gently scrape more residue loose. After doing this several times, now I just stick it in and press the trigger to blow out the water, etc.

[DouglasReid]

Originally Posted by Oaklevel

We remove the anode rod to drain the water heater once a year for winterizing and put it back with Teflon tape never had a problem.

When removing the anode rod to drain the WH it is also a good idea to get a hose with a tool like this one:

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...iABEgJQBfD_BwE

It will allow you to flush the tiny white granules of the used anode on the bottom of the WH.

This will prevent them from entering your water system and plugging up the screens on all your faucets in the kitchen and bathroom

[Comanchecreek]

First when installed I always use Teflon tape. I remove mine when I winterize to fully drain the tank. I also run a little pink just to displace any water in the bottom of the tank. I have indoor storage so I leave the plug/anode out so that I can thoroughly flush the tank for pink and sediment in the spring. I do understand the bug thing so in that case would probably just hand thread it in before storage. When you reinstall do not get crazy tightening the plug. With fresh tape it should not leak, and will make it tough to get out the following season. Here is where the discussion of using an anode on the Attwood aluminum tanks begins. I ere on the side of a cheap anode over an expensive water heater. I have used one on mine and the anode is clearly working. Just try to keep your fittings corrosion free and use fresh tape and you should be good.

[KennethD]

Originally Posted by hack522

I do my own winterizing and remove it to insure the hot water heater is drained fully.

Removed anode with 1 1/16 socket, installed 3/4 x cl gal nipple, 3/4 x 1/2” gal tee, anode. Installed 1/2”x cL gal nipple, 1/2 ball valve, 1/2” mips x 3/4 male hose adapter. Had to remove the handle from the ball valve to tighten the ball valve, reinstalled it when it was in the correct position. I drained the wh with the ball in fall or between trips.

[Cold Lake Kid]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

I have a pc of copper tubing soldered to an air nozzle end and just stick the tube all the way in the anode hole. I even move it around to try to gently scrape more residue loose. After doing this several times, now I just stick it in and press the trigger to blow out the water, etc.

Now THAT is clever!
Handy Old Coot ain't ya!?
Thanks pard.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by Cold Lake Kid

Now THAT is clever!
Handy Old Coot ain't ya!?
Thanks pard.

You're welcome, use it for numerous other things also, like sweeping the garage floor, etc.