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Old 04-03-2015, 06:48 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by sewingcybermom View Post
I would like to know about this too. I opened up ours for the first time and what a struggle it was to set up the bed. The cross bar was under the mattress, and the hook was in between the fold of the mattress...what a chore!
We store the hook on the flat part of the cabinetry, under the from of the mattress. We don't put it on the mattress and fold the front part under it. That makes it available to push the arch/hoop up and out by fitting the end into the connector in the middle. A short person might still struggle to hook it into the attachment at the ceiling.

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Old 04-03-2015, 11:33 AM   #12
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Wife and I always tear down outside she inside. She just checks the tenting while I push up the bed. Make sure the seal is completely clear before latching. Any tenting in the seal will cause water infiltration and all the problems that causes.

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Old 04-03-2015, 12:54 PM   #13
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I am picking up my new Roo 183 in 10 days, so I will let you guys know. Being a former 2011 owner with the old style bunk, I am waiting to see if the new style is better or worst. Also, I follow the RVW instructions and keep my hoop between the folded mattress on the old style.
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Old 04-03-2015, 01:24 PM   #14
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Closing tent ends

I was practicing opening and closing the tent ends this morning on our new Roo 24IKSS with the attached tents.

The mattresses are held on the platform with some velcro. I found that pulling the mattress into the unit just inside the hinge works best.

My method.

I pull the shepherds hook and lay it sideways in the mattress seam, drop the hoop on top of the mattress and flip the mattress short piece up to capture the poles. Pull the mattress inward. The folded mattress needs to be inside the hinge by about an inch. Then turn on the fan. Smooth fabric a bit by pulling in any slack and make it as neat as you can. Go outside (don't forget to close the door). I then flipped up the platform, made sure the fabric was not in the way and shut it all up. With the fan on the fabric is literally sucked inside. Works like a charm after a little practice.

I found that the mattress position is the most critical thing (besides of course, not getting fabric in the seals). If the mattress is not moved into the unit a few inches or is moved in too far it gets in the way and the platform will not close. When the mattress is in the right position the platform lifts and latches very easily.
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Old 04-03-2015, 02:01 PM   #15
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Just returned from nearly 10 weeks in FL with my 2014 Shamrock 183. I have camped solo a few times. First time for the DW and we worked through these bed folding problems. We moved 7 times, so got lots of working practice dealing with the beds.

Has anyone had good luck with removing the ridge support and allowing the cross support to pivot down and rest on top of the mattress before pushing the panel up and latching?
First off I will say that I bought foam 1 1/2 inch thick toppers for both the front, side and back mattresses. We use the front and back all of the time but sometimes the side gets used for another family member or guest instead of just clothes storage.

We have found that you can let down the bunk hoop (cross support) on top of the mattress and topper. Pull the mattress toward you, (you may have to pick up on it slightly to clear the edging where the bunk hinges) then fold the hoop and hook onto the (single thickness) mattress then fold the mattress over on top of the metal. If working together someone on the outside then pushes the door closed. This method works well ONLY for the back and side bunk. I can also do this myself with no help, but sometimes it takes a couple of trips in and out to get everything lined up. If I encounter any resistance closing the bunk, then I have to go inside and investigate and usually find I have to pull the folded mattress toward the inside of the trailer a little more. We have folded in the mattress pad, sheets and blanket all at once when we are going to just fold them down again the same day after moving.

On the front bunk, there seems to be less room, so I have to pull off the foam topper, (I roll it up and bungee the roll and put it on the folded down dinette table) then without the topper we let down the hoop, pull the mattress toward the inside, fold in the hook, then shut the bunk up. No need to ever put the hoop under the mattress.

They sell topper zippered cases. We bought one when we got home, and I plan to slip in the topper inside the 2" high queen sized zipper case. This should make it easier to deal with the foam that I have to pull off the front bunk.

The 5' 2" DW also found it easier on her knees to use a small foot stool to crawl in and out of the rear bunk. DW prefers to bunk by herself as she reads late into the night and does not care to hear me snore.

You will work these little things out when you get on the road, or do some practice while in the driveway.
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Old 04-03-2015, 03:02 PM   #16
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I know most of this thread has been about the toppers, folding the mattress and such, but I did want to throw out one suggestion that I read here that has made things a little easier.

When you are ready to close the ends, turn on the the exhaust vents in the bathroom and any others that you might have, close the doors and any open windows. This creates a minor suction, but this is enough to pull the tent fabric in towards the inside, making it a lot easier to not get it in the seams. I was surprised at what a difference this made, I do not end up going back and forth trying to tuck the tent in before sealing it.

Hope that helps...
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Old 04-03-2015, 03:08 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by chriscowles View Post
I've never understood the rationale for that. If you park the nose down to make the front wall vertical, doesn't the back wall end up off vertical? Even if not, what is it supposed to accomplish?
It's not about nosing down enough to make the raked nose vertical. It's about nosing down enough that water will drain off of the bunk door frame and out externally before jumping the dam and draining internally. Nose up and you will get water in behind the bunk door, it will leak onto the cabinetry and into the wall because it will flow right over the lip of the frame (what I call the dam) you likely cannot see due to the membrane FR puts over the hinge gap. Properly nosed down you actually have just the right drainage for the front and rear bunk where the water sits on the door frames.
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Old 04-03-2015, 03:35 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by bikendan View Post
makes me glad i have the older bungee and snap tent ends.
i'm 6' and can completely do the takedown and closing by myself.
the DW is 5'5" and can almost do it herself too but being able to reach in under the tents, makes it a lot easier to deal with the mattress, shepherd's hook and the C-loop.

so much for the supposedly easier pre-attached canvas.
Makes it a whole lot easier to make the beds if you do it before you secure the tent too. Found that out second trip out.
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Old 04-03-2015, 04:15 PM   #19
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Ok, all this mattress talk makes me ask the question. How do I keep the mattresses from sliding out when the bunk is up? We have a 2015 233S and the front bunk mattress slides and sticks out with the canvass all billowed out over the top. It's kind of irritating when I'm in there trying to do anything.

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Old 04-03-2015, 05:13 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by chriscowles View Post
I've never understood the rationale for that. If you park the nose down to make the front wall vertical, doesn't the back wall end up off vertical? Even if not, what is it supposed to accomplish?
my understanding is, there is a lip to divert water to the outside on the bottom framework. the front being angled, somewhat defeats this feature. by dropping the front a little, you overcome the disadvantage of the front slope to some degree.

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