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Old 05-17-2015, 02:27 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by bikendan View Post
makes me glad i have the older bungee and snap tent ends.
i'm 6' and can completely do the takedown and closing by myself.
the DW is 5'5" and can almost do it herself too but being able to reach in under the tents, makes it a lot easier to deal with the mattress, shepherd's hook and the C-loop.

so much for the supposedly easier pre-attached canvas.


Totally agree! We too have the older bungee and snap tent bunk ends.

I have had 2 Pop Ups in the past and I feel the video and its method, really, IMO, took longer to close up the bunk ends than it takes us in reality. Even with our HTT we have now, we can tear down the bunk ends, tuck and smooth the canvas, and have the doors closed in less than 5 minutes tops. I could never understand why some say bunk ends are such a nuisance.

I guess all the years having Pop Up Tent ends pays off.

*The video was a bit impressive as to the suction, but truly that was all. Seemed more time consuming to me.*
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Old 05-18-2015, 09:48 AM   #42
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anyone feel like the bunk ends are not secure enough and wind up kicking the locks? To me it just seems they can pop open so I lock all 4 locks as well


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Old 05-18-2015, 10:01 AM   #43
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anyone feel like the bunk ends are not secure enough and wind up kicking the locks? To me it just seems they can pop open so I lock all 4 locks as well


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I replaced the old screw type handles with the Locking Bars. I have not locked them since I installed them. I never really think of it as they are pretty solid and feel secure when the lock "snaps down" into place. I guess a matter of preference and security with each individual. But, always better safe than sorry too.
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Old 05-18-2015, 12:31 PM   #44
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I replaced the old screw type handles with the Locking Bars. I have not locked them since I installed them. I never really think of it as they are pretty solid and feel secure when the lock "snaps down" into place. I guess a matter of preference and security with each individual. But, always better safe than sorry too.
He is talking about the newer latch system, not the locking bar system like you converted to.
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Old 05-18-2015, 01:50 PM   #45
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We have a new 2016 Roo 183 and haven't had any trouble with the beds. On one occasion, while lifting the panel, the cross support did bind against the mattress. I just lowered it again and shifted the mattress slightly. I normally do it all myself, but it does help to have my wife inside the trailer to help guide the cross support.

When the beds are raised, the ridge support is under the folded mattress and the cross support is over the top of the mattress. I'm not sure if that's the right way, but it seems to be working without binding and we haven't had any problems (have only had the trailer for a month, so it's early yet....
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Old 05-19-2015, 04:26 AM   #46
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I tried yesterday to fold the beds with the bars in between the bed fold and then as per the video, the tie-down strap looped around the loop support and snapped in place.
It works well and keeps the mattress against the bed better.
The locks are key-locked during winter storage but, not any other time.
Nice to talk to others with similar units.
Tinker Toy comes from my wife who says I am always Tinkering with the TT.
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Old 05-20-2015, 09:46 AM   #47
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Wow, just came back from our first outing with our new Roo 19 which we love and also experienced the same struggle opening and closing the beds, the mattress being so in the way.


Can someone tell me where I find the RVW videos? Is that a website?


Thanks much.
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Old 05-20-2015, 10:34 AM   #48
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Old 05-23-2015, 06:15 AM   #49
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From Kanga99 and others advice: have found this routine works best with 2015 and newer bunks:


1. Pull the fold in the mattress about 1 inch inboard of hinge.
2. Place the crook support on the crease of the fold.
3. Drop the hoop support onto the mattress.
4. Close windows and turn on power vents.
5. Close the door and go out to lift panels and latch them.
6. Helps to fold upper corner of canopy toward the opposite corner. Watch to make sure nothing gets pinched.
7. If the panel doesn't seem to engage the latch easily, lower it and go back to verify you pulled the mattress in to the correct position. When the matress is not pulled in just so (see step 1) the hoop support can "dig into" the mattress. Once you learn the "sweet spot" to position the mattress, nothing binds and the panel slides right into the upper latching mechanism.
8. If you have a side bunk (183 Roo or Shamrock) - go back inside and you can "gather in" the roof canopy and slide it in over the mattress. The canopy then nicely holds the mattress in place. Close the curtains and you have a wall instead of a mattress awkwardly protruding inward.

There doesn't seem to be any videos of the newer bunks on the internet. Would be a nice touch if FR produced one.

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Old 05-23-2015, 07:33 AM   #50
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Oops! Just looked back a few posts and saw sewingcybermom post with excellent video of closing bunks on the newer model years. It's "spot on!!"


Note the portion when the video shows the panel being closed from the outside view. The panel actually "falls into place" as it closes the last couple of inches.


This made me realize that raising the jack would provide this mechanical advantage - as the jack rises, the angle of the front wall with respect to the plane of the ground would "recede." Raise the front panel with the front jack raised, and the panel passes through 90 degrees and then "falls into place!"


Lowering the jack would create this same mechanical advantage for closing the rear panel ......possibly worth thr effort is you are currently struggling to hold the panel closed while pulling the latch down into locked position.




BTW - my 2016 183 Shamrock seems to have a roof that is practically dome shaped! This quickly directs rainwater to the side gutters, and nicely out the "lil rain spouts" mounted at the four corners. Because of this, I would think the PVC caps mounted on the top rail of the bunk panel may not be as helpful as those placed on a roofline that allows rainwater to cascade in sheets down the fore and aft walls. It may be a worthwhile precaution when the rubber seals at that top edge begin to age; so I will keep this handy tip in mind.





I will add what so many other "newbies" have - thank you to all who pass tips along....it is sooooo helpful. Like, I too wondered why water pressure at kitchen sink of new 183 was less than at the bathroom sink..........read the post and found perfectly normal new-construction debris had clogged the water outlet........something I would have immediately checked on a newly installed sink in my home .... but failed to consider until you folks pointed it out. Thanks to you all.



peace / out
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Old 05-23-2015, 12:13 PM   #51
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Yeah, the domed roof is very cool. I like the visual aspect inside.


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Old 05-24-2015, 08:04 AM   #52
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Yeah, the domed roof is very cool. I like the visual aspect inside.
And at 6-1 I love the room it gives
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