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Old 04-02-2015, 03:45 PM   #1
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Any tips for closing new Hybrid Beds?

Just received our new 2015 (possibly 2016) Shamrock 183 Hybrid trailer.

Got an excellent walk through from our dealer, but remain mystified about the drop down beds.....and we have 3 of them.....lol!


After the panel was unlatched and lowered, we went inside to raise the cross support and insert the canopy ridge support. The cross support was under the folded mattress. This required pulling the folded mattress almost fully off the platform to gain enough clearance to pivot the support upward into position. My wife is well over 5 ft tall and about 120 pounds so this proved to be extremely awkward and physically demanding!

There's no factory information in the "all too generic" Trailer Owner's Manual. Nor can we find a "how to" video for a hybrid bed showing the newer style, which I believe was introduced a bout the 2014 model year.

Has anyone had good luck with removing the ridge support and allowing the cross support to pivot down and rest on top of the mattress before pushing the panel up and latching? What's the best trick to doing this? Anyone from Forest River want to chime in?

BTW....GREAT TIP on closing the windows and doors with the roof vent fan running to literally suck the canvas side walls inward. Thanks for that, and it's a testament to how well sealed these units are.

Anxiously awaiting this tip.....as it will allow us both to setup the beds.
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Old 04-02-2015, 05:22 PM   #2
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Unless it just changed, the "wagon hoop" lays on top of the folded mattress in real world use. Former long-time owner of a 21ss.
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Old 04-02-2015, 06:48 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by geotex1 View Post
Unless it just changed, the "wagon hoop" lays on top of the folded mattress in real world use. Former long-time owner of a 21ss.
X2. Hoop usually is folded down on top of the mattress, shepards hook lays in the folded up mattress. Not sure on the newest models, our 2014 has straps on the side of the mattresses that snap to the bunk ends and keeps everything in place while folded up
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Old 04-02-2015, 09:07 PM   #4
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If you have a mattress topper and leave it on the bed, take care that the hoop lays straight across it without pinching the topper against the side of the mattress. Yes, the hoop compresses into the topper but that doesn't seem to hurt anything. However, our topper once slid a little sideways and the hoop pinched it, result in a tear in the topper when closing. Not a big deal. Just watch where it lays when you fold it down.
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Old 04-02-2015, 09:28 PM   #5
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if there are beds fore and aft, is it still best to park with the tongue slightly down due to the incline of front wall? when stored that is...
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Old 04-02-2015, 09:38 PM   #6
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In both my htt pdi's, I was instructed to put the hoop in between the folded mattress. Definitely don't want it under the mattress. It is longer than the bunk so it will hit the bunk end when folded. I use a 8in gel foam mattress on my front bunk (dumped the yoga mat of a mattress). It won't fold in the bunk so I have to leave it out. But, have to be careful as not to allow the hoop to bottom out on the frame (like if it would have been under the mattress).
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Old 04-02-2015, 09:54 PM   #7
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if there are beds fore and aft, is it still best to park with the tongue slightly down due to the incline of front wall? when stored that is...
I've never understood the rationale for that. If you park the nose down to make the front wall vertical, doesn't the back wall end up off vertical? Even if not, what is it supposed to accomplish?
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Old 04-02-2015, 10:13 PM   #8
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Nor can we find a "how to" video for a hybrid bed showing the newer style, which I believe was introduced a bout the 2014 model year.
go to RVW's video library. they have a lot of videos on Roos and opening/closing the bed ends.
and the newer style came out in 2012, i believe, not last year.

and there is no one from Forest River to "chime in" here,
since there are no Roo/Shamrock factory staff who are members of the Forum.
only one Palomino hybrid rep is a Forum member.

there are only a handful of FR staff who are Forum members here and that's something they choose to do on their own.
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Old 04-03-2015, 12:46 AM   #9
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I would like to know about this too. I opened up ours for the first time and what a struggle it was to set up the bed. The cross bar was under the mattress, and the hook was in between the fold of the mattress...what a chore! I am only 5'3", so I had to struggle to get the mattress out of my way and try and use the hook to find and push the cross bar into the end. I'm hoping there's an easier way too!
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Old 04-03-2015, 02:54 AM   #10
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makes me glad i have the older bungee and snap tent ends.
i'm 6' and can completely do the takedown and closing by myself.
the DW is 5'5" and can almost do it herself too but being able to reach in under the tents, makes it a lot easier to deal with the mattress, shepherd's hook and the C-loop.

so much for the supposedly easier pre-attached canvas.
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Old 04-03-2015, 06:48 AM   #11
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I would like to know about this too. I opened up ours for the first time and what a struggle it was to set up the bed. The cross bar was under the mattress, and the hook was in between the fold of the mattress...what a chore!
We store the hook on the flat part of the cabinetry, under the from of the mattress. We don't put it on the mattress and fold the front part under it. That makes it available to push the arch/hoop up and out by fitting the end into the connector in the middle. A short person might still struggle to hook it into the attachment at the ceiling.



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Old 04-03-2015, 11:33 AM   #12
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Wife and I always tear down together...me outside she inside. She just checks the tenting while I push up the bed. Make sure the seal is completely clear before latching. Any tenting in the seal will cause water infiltration and all the problems that causes.
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Old 04-03-2015, 12:54 PM   #13
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I am picking up my new Roo 183 in 10 days, so I will let you guys know. Being a former 2011 owner with the old style bunk, I am waiting to see if the new style is better or worst. Also, I follow the RVW instructions and keep my hoop between the folded mattress on the old style.
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Old 04-03-2015, 01:24 PM   #14
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Closing tent ends

I was practicing opening and closing the tent ends this morning on our new Roo 24IKSS with the attached tents.

The mattresses are held on the platform with some velcro. I found that pulling the mattress into the unit just inside the hinge works best.

My method.

I pull the shepherds hook and lay it sideways in the mattress seam, drop the hoop on top of the mattress and flip the mattress short piece up to capture the poles. Pull the mattress inward. The folded mattress needs to be inside the hinge by about an inch. Then turn on the fan. Smooth fabric a bit by pulling in any slack and make it as neat as you can. Go outside (don't forget to close the door). I then flipped up the platform, made sure the fabric was not in the way and shut it all up. With the fan on the fabric is literally sucked inside. Works like a charm after a little practice.

I found that the mattress position is the most critical thing (besides of course, not getting fabric in the seals). If the mattress is not moved into the unit a few inches or is moved in too far it gets in the way and the platform will not close. When the mattress is in the right position the platform lifts and latches very easily.
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Old 04-03-2015, 02:01 PM   #15
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Just returned from nearly 10 weeks in FL with my 2014 Shamrock 183. I have camped solo a few times. First time for the DW and we worked through these bed folding problems. We moved 7 times, so got lots of working practice dealing with the beds.

Quote:
Has anyone had good luck with removing the ridge support and allowing the cross support to pivot down and rest on top of the mattress before pushing the panel up and latching?
First off I will say that I bought foam 1 1/2 inch thick toppers for both the front, side and back mattresses. We use the front and back all of the time but sometimes the side gets used for another family member or guest instead of just clothes storage.

We have found that you can let down the bunk hoop (cross support) on top of the mattress and topper. Pull the mattress toward you, (you may have to pick up on it slightly to clear the edging where the bunk hinges) then fold the hoop and hook onto the (single thickness) mattress then fold the mattress over on top of the metal. If working together someone on the outside then pushes the door closed. This method works well ONLY for the back and side bunk. I can also do this myself with no help, but sometimes it takes a couple of trips in and out to get everything lined up. If I encounter any resistance closing the bunk, then I have to go inside and investigate and usually find I have to pull the folded mattress toward the inside of the trailer a little more. We have folded in the mattress pad, sheets and blanket all at once when we are going to just fold them down again the same day after moving.

On the front bunk, there seems to be less room, so I have to pull off the foam topper, (I roll it up and bungee the roll and put it on the folded down dinette table) then without the topper we let down the hoop, pull the mattress toward the inside, fold in the hook, then shut the bunk up. No need to ever put the hoop under the mattress.

They sell topper zippered cases. We bought one when we got home, and I plan to slip in the topper inside the 2" high queen sized zipper case. This should make it easier to deal with the foam that I have to pull off the front bunk.

The 5' 2" DW also found it easier on her knees to use a small foot stool to crawl in and out of the rear bunk. DW prefers to bunk by herself as she reads late into the night and does not care to hear me snore.

You will work these little things out when you get on the road, or do some practice while in the driveway.
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Old 04-03-2015, 03:02 PM   #16
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I know most of this thread has been about the toppers, folding the mattress and such, but I did want to throw out one suggestion that I read here that has made things a little easier.

When you are ready to close the ends, turn on the the exhaust vents in the bathroom and any others that you might have, close the doors and any open windows. This creates a minor suction, but this is enough to pull the tent fabric in towards the inside, making it a lot easier to not get it in the seams. I was surprised at what a difference this made, I do not end up going back and forth trying to tuck the tent in before sealing it.

Hope that helps...
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Old 04-03-2015, 03:08 PM   #17
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I've never understood the rationale for that. If you park the nose down to make the front wall vertical, doesn't the back wall end up off vertical? Even if not, what is it supposed to accomplish?
It's not about nosing down enough to make the raked nose vertical. It's about nosing down enough that water will drain off of the bunk door frame and out externally before jumping the dam and draining internally. Nose up and you will get water in behind the bunk door, it will leak onto the cabinetry and into the wall because it will flow right over the lip of the frame (what I call the dam) you likely cannot see due to the membrane FR puts over the hinge gap. Properly nosed down you actually have just the right drainage for the front and rear bunk where the water sits on the door frames.
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Old 04-03-2015, 03:35 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by bikendan View Post
makes me glad i have the older bungee and snap tent ends.
i'm 6' and can completely do the takedown and closing by myself.
the DW is 5'5" and can almost do it herself too but being able to reach in under the tents, makes it a lot easier to deal with the mattress, shepherd's hook and the C-loop.

so much for the supposedly easier pre-attached canvas.
Makes it a whole lot easier to make the beds if you do it before you secure the tent too. Found that out second trip out.
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Old 04-03-2015, 04:15 PM   #19
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Ok, all this mattress talk makes me ask the question. How do I keep the mattresses from sliding out when the bunk is up? We have a 2015 233S and the front bunk mattress slides and sticks out with the canvass all billowed out over the top. It's kind of irritating when I'm in there trying to do anything.
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Old 04-03-2015, 05:13 PM   #20
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I've never understood the rationale for that. If you park the nose down to make the front wall vertical, doesn't the back wall end up off vertical? Even if not, what is it supposed to accomplish?
my understanding is, there is a lip to divert water to the outside on the bottom framework. the front being angled, somewhat defeats this feature. by dropping the front a little, you overcome the disadvantage of the front slope to some degree.
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