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Old 09-10-2013, 11:09 AM   #11
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Yeah lol I'll include how many times I get zapped too!! I hate electricity !!! Lol
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Old 09-10-2013, 11:14 AM   #12
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Yeah lol I'll include how many times I get zapped too!! I hate electricity !!! Lol
I just did a Tough Mudder challenge this weekend. Lots of electroshock therapy. Trust me - I can relate!
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Old 09-10-2013, 11:35 AM   #13
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It should be from factory like that!! So I should just reroute the wires from the switch to the factory panel and pop a switch in there I'm thinking. Anyone have a wiring diagram of the hot water tank!
Just making sure you understand that most (if not all) of the switches on your control panel are for 12 volt stuff.

Your water heaters electrical heating element is 120 volt, and thus needs wires/switches for that. Make sure you plan/buy accordingly.
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Old 09-10-2013, 11:35 AM   #14
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Yeah lol I'll include how many times I get zapped too!! I hate electricity !!! Lol
If you pay attention, and follow the rules that cost the lives of guys before you, there is NO reason to get zapped.

I've been working with electricity for over 20 years and I'm not talking about your run-of-the-mill 120VAC wall current. I'm talking lots of 460, 2300 and 4160VAC three phase. Over all those years I can distinctly remember every time I got zapped. Both of 'em. Yep, in over 20 years I've been bit exactly twice. Both were over 10 years ago, and both times I got in a hurry and didn't pay attention.

If you take a few minutes to learn the basics, and use the proper tools and procedures, a 12 year old child could safely change an outlet or rewire a lamp.

BTW if you do this mod, MAKE SURE YOUR SWITCH IS RATED FOR 20AMP 110VAC. Many smaller light up switches are only good for 10 amps, and would not be able to supply the water heater safely.

Tim
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Old 09-10-2013, 11:52 AM   #15
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Ok thank you
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Old 09-10-2013, 12:33 PM   #16
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I decided to interupt the power at the breaker and run a switch right next to the power distribution panel. I don"t have pics right now but will take one tonight.
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Old 09-10-2013, 03:23 PM   #17
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So if I'm reading the diagram right there's only a black wire on the switch so what would I use to put in a lighted switch? Just ground the switch?
I guess you didn't even bother to check the link that I supplied for you. It explains how to install a lighted switch and why you need three wires.

...VTX-Al
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Old 09-10-2013, 03:30 PM   #18
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No I looked at it, I have a 233s and my hot water tank is in a different location, I'm trying to take out the existing switch on the tank behind the access door and just put a switch in the panel, My tank is in the front of the coach under the seat
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Old 09-10-2013, 04:19 PM   #19
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What I see most people doing (as it is easier) is to put in an inside switch either

A: in the circuit between the breaker and the 120 volt outlet the water heater plugs into (which then controls the power going to the outlet)

or

B: at the water heater 120 volt outlet itself, to turn off/on the outlet.

In either of these scenarios, they are just placing basically another switch upstream of the on/off black switch on the front of the Suburban water heater. They leave in the black switch, and keep it in the on position.......then use the upstream inside switch to control the 120 volt circuit the water heater get's it power from.

It would be easier to not take out the black switch, but just install another switch in it's circuit, somewhere.
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Old 09-10-2013, 04:24 PM   #20
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Too bad they don't make 20A. Clappers....
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