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Old 04-24-2016, 08:21 PM   #11
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Agreed


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Old 04-24-2016, 08:24 PM   #12
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Thanks for all the info. I am going to start doing some testing to find out if there is a hidden draw that I am not aware of. I will also do a load test on the batteries. Never know, but at least it could save or create more work depending on the results. I will probably disconnect the heater cable regardless. Since it isn't used for extended periods and then turned off, I can't see condensation being an issue. Again, thank you for the info.

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Old 04-24-2016, 09:09 PM   #13
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Old 04-24-2016, 09:21 PM   #14
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I think you have a typo in your initial post. I assume you are asking about a 200W solar panel. A 200amp solar panel set up would be much larger than your RV. Try changing some lights out for LEDs if not already equipped. Disconnect the Fridge door frame heater.
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Old 04-24-2016, 10:11 PM   #15
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Kinda of a useless recommendation for a hybrid TT owner, since there's only room for two batteries on the tongue.

If you can handle the taller 6v golf cart batteries, you should consider them.
I couldn't because of clearance issues with the electric tongue jack.
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Old 04-24-2016, 10:35 PM   #16
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I'm starting to question the health of the batteries. The deeper you discharge them and the longer you go before fully recharging can shorten life on them. You've most likely got hybrid / marine type batteries that aren't really ideal for deep cycle use. They'll work, but you've got to take care of them. It's also possible you've just got a weak battery. The status lights are a joke, but 1/3 will generally tell you that you are actually on the low side. It sounds like you use your rig like I use mine. What I ended up doing after my 12V finally died (took about four years) is switch to 2 6V in series and get a good charger ( I use a CTEK 7 stage ) and just leave it plugged in when not in use.
The "1/3" light is actually an "F" - "fair" when you read the battery; it only means 1/3 when reading tank levels. In this case it means your 12 volt battery is outputting more than 11.6 volts. (near death).

My guess is you have exceeded the number of usable cycles due to discharging your battery below 50% capacity too many times ("G" light JUST goes out - or the "2/3" light)

200 watts of solar won't help you if your batteries are toast.
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Old 04-26-2016, 11:22 AM   #17
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I appreciate all this information. I have charged my batteries and given them 24 hours rest to determine whether they are even holding a full charge. At this time (24 hrs later) they are both sitting at 13.00V. I guess I need to have a load test done to determine overall health. They haven't been used that many times, but I guess they could be toast. If I do need new batteries, then is a 200W solar panel enough to keep me up and running above the 50% with "normal" usage?
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Old 04-26-2016, 11:26 AM   #18
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I have charged my batteries and given them 24 hours rest to determine whether they are even holding a full charge. At this time (24 hrs later) they are both sitting at 13.00V.
Can't be...13.00 is to high for a flooded lead acid battery. as far as the 200 watt solar installation...what is "normal use." Without a big inverter and residential reefer, 200 watts should be enough for lights and such. Remember its 200 watts on the best day, with the sun shining directly on the panel. I am using 300 watts for 6 batteries and a residential reefer, but I will use the generator to get a boost charge for 3 or 4 hours a day in addition to the solar.
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Old 04-26-2016, 12:44 PM   #19
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I appreciate all this information. I have charged my batteries and given them 24 hours rest to determine whether they are even holding a full charge. At this time (24 hrs later) they are both sitting at 13.00V. I guess I need to have a load test done to determine overall health. They haven't been used that many times, but I guess they could be toast. If I do need new batteries, then is a 200W solar panel enough to keep me up and running above the 50% with "normal" usage?
There are many web sites with instructions on how to calculate the size solar panel you need based on battery bank size and your predicted usage.

There are just too many variables to predict how much solar you would need.

I can tell you that 200 watts is enough to power a TV for a few hours and that is it.

A 100AH battery contains (12 volts X 100 amps) 1200 watts for 1 hour till dead (Math here is theoretical since it is impossible to get 100 amps out of a battery for an hour due to the Peukert Effect - PE) or 5 amps at 12 volts for 20 hours (5A x 20H = 100AH) which is the rating and also equal 1200 watt/hour @ 12 volts.

As discharge rate goes above 5 amps, the PE reduces the AH the battery can deliver.

For example, from the graph, we need 10 amps to run our camper. Due to PE, the capacity at that load drops to 78AH. So at 10 amps, the battery will last 78AH/10A or only 7.8 hours.

Remember that Peukert Effect impacts charging too. You just can not smash 1200 watt hours into a battery without burning it up.

If you charge at 10 amps, it will also TAKE 7.8 hours to replace that charge (provided your solar charge controller will do that, which it won't due to the charge rate dropping as the battery fills, just like your dedicated charger or Converter does).

If you plan on more than that you will need a lot of battery and a way to recharge them every day beyond solar (which will cut down on generator time each day).
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Old 04-26-2016, 12:59 PM   #20
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It works but have not done it yet, the wire can be found through the light switch access hole.
Here's your fridge wiring diagram.
T is the heating cable being referred to as the defrosting circuit.
Following, we need to run our fridge in the storage lot and turning of the ndoor defrost will certainly help with draw.
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