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Old 08-24-2018, 12:08 AM   #21
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We visited the Surveyor plant in Oregon last fall and they do pressurize and wash every trailer to check for leaks.
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Old 10-24-2018, 07:47 PM   #22
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I had promised an update after I had my pressure test done on my 2018 Rockwood Roo 233S. The test only took about 30 minutes to run. They found probably 8 areas that needed to be re-sealed. Unfortunate for a brand new trailer but the guy told me that he finds more problems on new trailers then used trailers. Total effort for pressurization and resealing was about two hours and a very reasonable price of about $200 I think. I plan on doing this yearly, just seems like a great insurance policy to keep water away from places it should not be! I learned what a horrible job manufacturing did for initial sealing, the guy pointed out places that clearly had no sealant to start with! Thought about bringing it back to my dealer, but when I called the dealer they said that forest river would probably not allow a warranty claim because they would call it a maintenance issue!
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Old 10-24-2018, 08:14 PM   #23
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I have found that the wording of the warranty claim submitted by the dealer or service shop makes all the difference in whether the claim is accepted or not
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Old 10-25-2018, 07:49 AM   #24
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thanks for the update...

Quote:
They found probably 8 areas that needed to be re-sealed.
You show two areas in your pictures but you reference 8...

can you give more specifics of locations?
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Old 10-25-2018, 08:06 AM   #25
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I like the idea of the pressure test, makes sense! I may DIY and reverse the hoses on my shop vac, make a temporary boot and tape it over a window outside to get the air in. Go over the seams with some dawn and water in a spray bottle. Why wouldn't that work. Thanks Wprather for starting this thread.
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Old 10-25-2018, 11:57 AM   #26
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There are some videos on the net of people using a leaf blower to perform the pressurized seal test. (I'm not sure if there are any on here.)

One thing you need to do is have some way of making sure that you're building pressure. You probably need 1" to 2" WC, so it's going to take a pretty good sized blower to produce that pressure in that large a space.

Thinking about it, I wonder if one of those bouncy house blowers would work?
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Old 10-25-2018, 12:00 PM   #27
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Wprather, ignore the dealer, I would contact FR and send them pics and copy of the test.
Is it still under the 1 year warranty?
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Old 10-25-2018, 02:06 PM   #28
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thanks for the update...



You show two areas in your pictures but you reference 8...

can you give more specifics of locations?

Sure, the door was the WORST by far! The tech told me that most manufacturers do NOT seal the door AT ALL! That's crazy. He said that it should have weep holes in the bottom like windows do but they do not! So water puddles in the bottom and rots the inside material of the door from the bottom up requiring the door to be replaced! I will show 3 pictures of the door. One corner had a problem, see pic. The rest were places were lights or other stuff were cutout of the sidewalls. Found that the lights actually had NO sealant around them, only the black foam inserts. Well that might work until the heat hardens and destroys the form insert but that won't take long so that's a manufacturing flaw in my opinion!

Thanks for the comment about "wording the request to FR". Yes, I'm sure I could have gotten FR to pay for the sealing, but frankly the effort to bring it to the other dealer wasn't worth the effort. The place I had the Sealtech test done doesn't do warranty work, they really only do huge remodels but happen to have a Sealtech machine and said they would do that for me, and also installed a battery monitor for me at the same time.

Definitely was worth my time (1/2 a day) and a few hundred bucks! As I said, I plan on doing this every year or so as a preventative measure. MUCH cheaper than water damage repair!
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Old 10-25-2018, 02:24 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bama Rambler View Post
There are some videos on the net of people using a leaf blower to perform the pressurized seal test. (I'm not sure if there are any on here.)

One thing you need to do is have some way of making sure that you're building pressure. You probably need 1" to 2" WC, so it's going to take a pretty good sized blower to produce that pressure in that large a space.

Thinking about it, I wonder if one of those bouncy house blowers would work?

And I'm pretty certain there will be air coming out around the slide- no way they're 100% sealed, especially the lower corners. So you've got to be able to maintain enough volume to overcome that and produce pressure.
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Old 10-25-2018, 02:33 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by dustman_stx View Post
And I'm pretty certain there will be air coming out around the slide- no way they're 100% sealed, especially the lower corners. So you've got to be able to maintain enough volume to overcome that and produce pressure.

I saw a youtube video of someone connecting a blower to one of his outdoor compartments and doing it that way. Didn't look like it worked very well, but I guess better than nothing. Sealtech was cheap and fast, $100 and less than 1 hour! But more power to you .
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Old 10-25-2018, 05:32 PM   #31
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Your pictures speak volumes. So after they perform the test how do they pass the results on to you? Do they give you a walk-around and point out the deficiencies or photograph each one and pass that on. My nearest dealer would be a couple of hours away, south of Indy. Hmmm, good day trip!
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Old 10-25-2018, 05:44 PM   #32
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Your pictures speak volumes. So after they perform the test how do they pass the results on to you? Do they give you a walk-around and point out the deficiencies or photograph each one and pass that on. My nearest dealer would be a couple of hours away, south of Indy. Hmmm, good day trip!
I was curious and had the time and the guy was very supportive of me hanging out, so I stayed and took my own pictures. He took his own photos so that after he washed the soap off and the trailer dried, he could then go back and do the sealant work. Also he did a write up for the invoice to charge me. But to keep track of where to do the work he took pictures of the bubbles. But I did too, mostly because I was curious. Like I said, it only took like 10 mins to hook up the sealtech machine, and another 30-40 mins max to go around the rig and spray it with a bottle of soapy water and take notes/photos. Then he washed it off and did the sealing. I only stayed for the testing, not the sealing. He also installed a Victron Battery Monitor for me. So I went out to eat and came back.
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Old 10-26-2018, 09:39 AM   #33
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OK I understand better. I was under the impression that you took the results home and performed the repairs yourself. Man, for a couple hundred bucks that is a good deal!
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Old 10-26-2018, 09:56 AM   #34
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I've used many moisture meters in my day in my home inspection business.i'll tell you a good accurate meter will cost 500+. The proper meter to use in your application is a "Protimeter". It can detect moisture through an 8" block. The one you need should have surface testing capability and probes. You probably dont have a moisture issue, you have a meter issue. Inexpensive ones are just not accrate.

I've used them also and I have an infrared camera. Metal under the material being checked will also give false positives with a moisture meter.
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Old 10-27-2018, 11:42 AM   #35
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I've used them also and I have an infrared camera. Metal under the material being checked will also give false positives with a moisture meter.
Good to know....thanks!
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