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Old 11-26-2011, 10:56 AM   #1
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Brochure Dry Weight vs Sticker

Ok I'm still a complete Noob, but I'm trying to learn as much as possible. So I've tried reading the posts about Dry Weight vs UVW vs Brochure listed weights and now i'm more confused than when i started .

Can someone listen to my logic and tell me if i'm correct or clueless.

Dry Weight = Weight of a configured/built trailer including options, but without water, battery, and not loaded with belongings

UVW = Another term for Dry Weight (same as above)

Brochure Dry Weight = fictional base non-configured trailer weight with no option weights, water, battery, or other included cargo weights.

The model I've ordered is the Roo 19. Brochure says Dry Ship Weight = 3383 lbs, but i found an optioned one like the one i ordered with a yellow sticker weight of 3617 lbs. So that is only 234 lbs for the weight of options this trailer is configured with. That seems low for the options.

So my question is does the 3617 lb number inlcude the weight of the Convenience Pkg Options, Aluminum Rims, Power Tongue Jack, Spare Tire/Carrier, Gas Oven, and Dual Empty Propane Tanks that this TT is configured to have? (I also figure that this sticker weight does not include the battery + 40 lbs).

Also, does the factory actually weigh each trailer after it is built to get this DW sticker rating or do they just do rough math?


One more thing. Do you guys travel with a full load of water? 36/30/30 gal tanks full? The sticker says the total cargo weight should not exceed 984 lbs and a full load of water is 308 lbs. According to my calculations a full load of 36/30/30 gal of water is way over 308 lbs. More like 800 lbs. I'm not sure if you are just supposed to travel with Fresh Water full.
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Old 11-26-2011, 11:52 AM   #2
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You pretty much have the idea. All weights provided by the manufacturer should be considered estimates. For actual weight, weigh your tt yourself before and after loading. That way you can see how much actual cargo your loading as well as your GCWR, tounge weight and so on.

Most people will travel with only 5-10 gals of water in the fresh tank for washing up and toilet use. If your going to be camping without any hook ups, call ahead to see if they have fresh water available, if not try to find a place close to the campground where you can fill your fresh water tank. Sometimes rest areas will have water as well as some fueling stations such as Flying J. Avoid using this water for dinking. However, If you have sanitized your system and you have a reliable source for potable water it would be okay. We always take bottled water for drinking and cooking.

Ususally people will travel with the waste tanks empty (always keep a gal or 2 in the black tank). If there is not a dump station where you are camping, then find one close by. You can also find dump stations at rest areas and fueling stations.

Hope this has helped.

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Old 11-26-2011, 02:59 PM   #3
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actually, for Forest River, "dry" weight is generally the weight of the stripped-down trailer. no options, battery, propane, water or cargo.

generally, UVW is the weight of the trailer when it leaves the factory. this is the "dry" weight plus the weight of the options.

other manufacturers, such as Jayco, use the UVW and "dry" weight as the same thing.
it is confusing since there is no consistency in the industry with teminology.
also, most manufacturers don't include the weight of "options" in the "dry" weight. but a few do.

for example, my '07 Roo 23SS had a "dry" weight of 4071lbs., from the brochure and the website, at the time.
the actual factory sticker weight(inside a cabinet door), including the options, was 4468lbs., without battery, propane, water and cargo.

now, as far as i know, manufacturers are posting the actual factory weight sticker on the outside of the trailers, instead of inside.

manufacturers really can't post a trailer's actual weight if they give buyers the ability to choose different options that will alter the trailer's actual weight.

for me, i bought a tow vehicle easily capable of towing the trailer at its GVWR.
i don't believe in having a marginal tow vehicle, nor do i want to worry about every ounce of extra weight.
a lot of people buy a trailer that can be near or over the max of their tow vehicle and do have to worry about water.
an extra 200-300lbs. of water isn't really a factor in gas mileage for the tow vehicle.

for me, i dry camp mostly and i much rather have water from my home. so i almost always travel with a full FW tank.
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Old 11-26-2011, 03:47 PM   #4
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Quote:
for example, my '07 Roo 23SS had a "dry" weight of 4071lbs., from the brochure and the website, at the time.
So true... these numbers can be wrong... I have a screen shot I printed off of our trailer at the time we bought it with the gvrw and cargo numbers on the web site. The gvrw is now just over 1500# lower than my print off

Even my yellow stickers are off, Dry = 5681# and Cargo max = 1902# with the gvrw on the trailer showing 7633#. I think the gvrw should show 7583# again all these numbers are different than the web site.
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Old 11-26-2011, 04:46 PM   #5
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speaking of stickers, here' s a pic of mine:

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Old 11-26-2011, 11:00 PM   #6
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All the stickers I've seen have been on the inside of the entry doors and are yellow. Since the Dry Weights listed on them is always higher than the Forest River Website Dry Weights I was assuming that was because it included the options, etc installed at the factory.

It amazes me all the misleading information you can find regarding some vehicle manufacturers tow ratings and the trailer manufacturers under-estimated dry weights. Seems like a recipe for disaster for folks that don't do their homework.

I've seen alot of people trying to go by just the listed tow rating the auto company states and thinking that's all fine and good if you stay under that number. Even my local dealer tried to tell me I could easily tow a 21SS because it weighs under my tow rating. I'm so glad I did my homework first and had some idea what to factor in (because with truck and trailer loaded for a trip the 21SS would be about 500-600-lbs over).
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Old 11-27-2011, 09:20 AM   #7
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This has been discussed many times. The brochure weight doesn't include 'mandatory' options like the AC unit and awning, which are heavy. Not all trailer companies market this way and Keystone is one company where the brochure weights are very close to the actual weights. I compared brochure weights to actual weights on several different brands (16 months ago) and Forest River was the worst offender. My trailer sticker weight came in 657lbs over brochure weight so it is buyer beware.
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Old 11-27-2011, 09:55 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoadDog66 View Post
All the stickers I've seen have been on the inside of the entry doors and are yellow. Since the Dry Weights listed on them is always higher than the Forest River Website Dry Weights I was assuming that was because it included the options, etc installed at the factory. ..........
It's my understanding those yellow stickers are the actual weight of the unit as it leaves the factory, however that does not include full propane tanks, battery or any other options the dealer may install.
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Old 11-27-2011, 11:15 AM   #9
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This place is great, so much knowlegde. Thanks for the replies. I was hoping the yellow stickers were close so i could get a good estimate on my overall gear limits to bring along when we go to take delivery of the Roo. Gonna make our first camping vacation on the way back after we pick it up .
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Old 11-27-2011, 01:07 PM   #10
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yep, from what i've read, the yellow stickers have replaced the white ones, like in my pic.
i assume it makes it easier for the consumer to see, from the outside, how much the trailer actually weighs as it sits there on the dealer's lot.
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Old 11-27-2011, 02:23 PM   #11
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The yellow sticker, as stated above, is the weight when it left the factory. Any dealer add on's are not included in the yellow sticker. Propane will be up to 60 lbs. Battery is about 25~30 depending an battery, single 12 volt. These two equal ~85 pounds of tongue weight. 6 gallons of water in the water heater, which is seldom drained before towing, 50 pounds. Now we have added about 135 pounds to the trailer. Some units the dealer may add an air conditioner. Here is another 150 pounds.
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Old 11-27-2011, 05:33 PM   #12
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Mine will come from the factory with the following optional equipment: Convenience Pkg (13.5k A/C, Awning, Outside Speakers, Tinted Windows, Microwave, 22" LCD TV, 110 DSI 6-gal Hot Water Heater), and (2) 20-Gal Propane Tanks, Gas Oven, Fantastic Bath Fan, Carbon Monoxide Detector, Water Filter, 2 Heated Matresses, Double Door Fridge, (5) Aluminim Wheels w/spare carrier, and Power Tongue Jack.

So I would assume then the sticker will reflect the optional equipment's additional weight. As I mentioned the similarly optioned trailer I saw had a sticker weight of 3617-lbs (234-lb over brochure weight). Then I guess I would add the 135-lbs you mentioned above, plus about 65-lbs for the Equalizer hitch, 175-lbs for full gas tank, and possibly 150-lbs for half-full fresh water tank. So that leaves about 800-lbs for the weight of the family and gear to keep me at 80-82% of tow capacity.

My idea of gear would be 4 camp chairs, 25 pieces of fire wood, cooler with adult beverages, cooler with kids beverages, cooler with food, 2-3 shopping bags of snacks, small grill, 5-gal of drinking water, (2) flashlights, clothes, sheets and towels. Am I missing anything?
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Old 11-27-2011, 10:00 PM   #13
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Dishes, pots and pans, cooking utensils, silverware, can opener, coffee pot, cleaning supplies, broom, personal items (toothbrush & paste, soap, etc...), tank chemicals, fresh water hose and connections, sewer hose and connections, awning mat, tool kit, first aid kit, extension cord, DVD's, games, fishing equipment, paper towels/napkins......

I'm sure others can offer more suggestions.
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Old 11-27-2011, 10:51 PM   #14
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A level and leveling boards. Salt, pepper, spices, and TOILET PAPER!!!!!!! Towels, wash cloths, dish washing soap, clothes line, clothes pins, ax for the firewood, lighter for the oven. Hot dog fork for roasting hot dogs over the fire, (illegal to break limbs off trees most places). Bring your own fire ring in some places also.

There is other stuff also, but best advice, Make your first trip in the driveway. Leave the house and lock it up. Don't go back in for anything. If you need something, go to the store and buy it, do not go in the house. Report how the week-end went. Curious as to how many trips you went to the store.

I do have a question. List of options you state double door fridge. Then why do you need 3 coolers? You get the fridge cold the day before you leave, and pack the fridge. It takes a day for them to cool down, so turn it on early.
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Old 11-28-2011, 12:04 AM   #15
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i was wondering about all the coolers too.

that's one reason i bought a hybrid, to have a fridge and freezer and not needing a cooler anymore.
just a stop along the way and into the trailer to get refreshments.
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Old 11-28-2011, 12:37 AM   #16
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I could have told him to do the ultimate test, fill the fresh water tank, don't connect to shore power, and then spend a week-end. Of course it is cold most places, and the furnace will kill the battery in one night. Also, the water will run out after a few showers.

He will need the campfire ring to build a fire in his yard though......lol

Of course, if is cold enough, he won't need the coolers, just leave the stuff that needs to stay cold, (beer), in the truck, and hope it doesn't freeze.
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Old 11-28-2011, 12:24 PM   #17
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You guys are a bunch of comedians ...

I'm known for doing things the hard way, so instead of buying locally (too much $$) and doing a local test run, I'll be taking a road trip to pick up my Roo. And since I will be a long ways from home and doing the PDI on site, we'll be heading to the nearest campsite to test her out for a few days before leaving for home.

I figured it would take at least 12-14 hrs to cool down the fridge/freezer so the coolers are to keep the food and more importantly the beer cold during the first few hours . Plus coolers make for extra seating.

And Windrider I do have a fire ring in my backyard, so camping out there is a possibility, LOL. Good idea though about the driveway test...wish I could do that.

I spent an hour making an inspection list and necessities list last night in preparation for our future journey. It's a long list so I'll have to limit the items to just essentials for the drive out and then look for a local Walmart/Target/Grocery Store for the rest. Plus it'll be 6-8 weeks (optimistic) for it to be built and we are delaying pickup until Spring so we have time to prepare. Also I'm kinda OCD so I like to have as many answers and scenerios figured out as possible prior to departure and to limit the arguments with my better half .
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Old 11-28-2011, 01:11 PM   #18
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I do work as a tech, and we test the fridge, gas and electric, before the customer picks it up. The fridge is always on electric when they arrive for PDI. Call your salesman or whatever, and tell them to have it connected to power, so you can test microwave, and the fridge cold, etc. Tell them to have some water in the fresh water tank, to test pump operation. Test the furnace and the AC. Roll the awning out and check for holes in the material. We have the stabilizer jacks down during PDI, so run them down and up, checking for wobble, mounted tightly. Make sure the tongue jack is tight. Open and close all windows and blinds. Test gas stove. Loosen the gas bottles enough to lift them, checking for weight. 20 pound bottles when full will be around 45 pounds I think. Take a blow dryer with you, (not kidding), and test it in every outlet.

Now it may not have towel racks, toilet paper holder, and other things we take for granted. Since you are picking it up that far away, take sleeping bags, less space than sheets and quilts that don't fit.

Plan on a motel the first night. When you get there, if there is something that needs fixing, Don't sign the papers, and take it with you to bring back tomorrow. You may be put at the rear of the line, especially if you have signed the papers. (dealer's like to keep their techs busy, and won't wait on you to return).

Make sure the tanks are dumped before you leave. If it has electric water heater, make them show you where the switch is.

There is some other stuff, I'm sure, but the most important, DON"T FORGET THE TOILET PAPER!!!!!!!!

and enjoy. Glad you can take a little humor.
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Old 11-28-2011, 07:53 PM   #19
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Awesome, thanx for the tips. That will help tremendously. When you are as big of a goof as me you have to have a good sense of humor

Is the hair dryer test to check for overloaded circuits?

And TP is at the top of my list ..
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Old 11-28-2011, 09:17 PM   #20
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This has been a very interesting thread as I am also seriously considering a Roo 19 equipped basically the same at RoadDog66's. I was curious as to your towing capacity, working backwards from the weights you talk about I figure you have 6000# capacity. If this is true then I am somewhat concerned about my 5000# cap TV.Yellow sticker shows a dry weight of 3545#.
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