Bunk Seal Tension/Pressure

[Mr Havercamp]

Your bottom picture explains a lot. The top seal should run past the side seal to the edge of the aluminum flange that is raised from the mounting flange. Yours is short and it also appears to run uphill a little as well. It also appears to have a good gap to the side seal. When the rain runs out of that top seal it will hit the end of the vertical seal, and some will get through that gap. If it was extended past and pushed tight to the vertical it would not be doing that. I have seen this condition before. Its a sloppy installation from the factory. That's also the reason your latch brackets are hitting the seal. The vertical seals are spread too far apart from each other, or the screws in the hinge that limit the door itself sliding on the pin are allowing too much side to side play.

[Summer2Go]

I take that back, I'm watching all the pollen dust everywhere right now. It is entirely possible that the door edges needed to be wiped off before I closed. I am usually so busy in the fall that it is hard to even find the time to close up the camper and winterize. I always hope I can take it out for one last trip. I closed the bunks so the tents wouldn't get dirty, and probably never opened them to put the camper to bed for the winter. I also may have cleaned the tent ends with a little soap.

[mvan48309]

Originally Posted by RooToo

Hello,

I recently had my 2017 Roo 233S into the local Rockwood dealer for the same leak issue, they were no help. So I also installed gutters over the bunks. I would say that the gutters solved 80% of the leakage issues and the other 20% was to remove the mattress from the bunk while the bunks are stowed. kinda sucks to have to remove the beds from the bunks each time we are done camping, but better then a water soaked mattress and water damage. It appears that the mattresses are putting a slight pressure on the door to prevent the door seals from doing their job.
anyway this has worked for me.
Happy Camping

Removing the mattress is good but you will still get wood damage on the beds. I had to replace my front plywood and varnish both sides. Also caulk wood edges

[mvan48309]

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by mvan48309

Removing the mattress is good but you will still get wood damage on the beds. I had to replace my front plywood and varnish both sides. Also caulk wood edgesAttachment 140742

mvan, you have a much older hybrid, than what they are talking about. Roos/Shamrocks haven't had the optional white cabinets for years.

They have pre-attached canvas, different sealing system and different clamping system. Lots of improvements.
You don't see the amount of bad bunk doors from leaks, with theirs as you do with with ones from our model years.

My 2007 23SS was only a year older than yours, except I never had any bunk doors leaks or damage in over 10 years of ownership.

Sorry you've had so much damage.😔

[Rodski]

Well, other than replacing the seals which I'd rather not since some times that just makes things worse, I added some gutters and they seem to work great. We just had a downpour and I had no water penetration at all on both bunks. I think both gutters total cost around $10, plus a few bucks for caulk to adhere them to the Roo. I got them at HD in the roofing department. If I had to do over again, I would have cut them a few inches shorter, but overall I'm really happy with them.

You can see in the picts they just barely overhang the seals and keep a lot of the water from hitting the top seals. It took about 1/2 hr total to install.

[Chunk6649]

Originally Posted by RooToo

Hello,

I recently had my 2017 Roo 233S into the local Rockwood dealer for the same leak issue, they were no help. So I also installed gutters over the bunks. I would say that the gutters solved 80% of the leakage issues and the other 20% was to remove the mattress from the bunk while the bunks are stowed. kinda sucks to have to remove the beds from the bunks each time we are done camping, but better then a water soaked mattress and water damage. It appears that the mattresses are putting a slight pressure on the door to prevent the door seals from doing their job.
anyway this has worked for me.
Happy Camping

I bought a 2013 233S this past winter. I didn't notice any leaks. After reading post about how to fold the mattresses in with the bar going on top of the mattress, I switched it up. I started to get a little leak. There seems to be just enough back pressure to crack the seams. Went back to pulling the mattress out, no more leaks. I guess there is a reason why they don't tell you to fold the bunk ends like that in the walkthrough.

[RACarvalho]

Originally Posted by Rodski

You can see in the picts they just barely overhang the seals and keep a lot of the water from hitting the top seals. It took about 1/2 hr total to install.

Rodski,
I loved this solution.
Did you travel after this mod?
What glue did you use for this?
I think I'll do the same but I'm concerned the wind and vibration can take them away if the glue/sealant is not strong enough....

Tks,

[Rodski]

I have traveled a total of about 3 hrs 2 weekends ago and they are still on strong. I used a lot of DAP weatherproof caulk (not silicone) because I had the same concerns especially since the ends are a little long and stick out a bit. I didn't use silicone because it would be harder to remove than regular caulk in case things didn't work out and I needed to remove them. There are different gutter widths too. I forget already what width I had to get but I believe it was 1.5 inch, maybe 1 5/8. The color is almost a perfect match to the color of the camper so that was a little bonus.

[slider in CT]

I like how you left the bar-code on it, so in case you didn't like it, you could return to HD!?

[Rodski]

That last one cracked me up. Yes a bad oversight on my part cutting off the piece that DIDN'T have the barcode on it for this bunkend. I did pick at it for a bit, but its IMPOSSIBLE to remove without some goo gone or some type of sticker remover.

[Rodski]

Well we had 2 more monsoon rains over the past few days and both times there was no water leakage at all inside the 21DK. I'm confident now that this solution solved my particular leak issue. Too bad FR doesn't modify their design to include a better gutter system, as this seems to be a constant complaint people post about on here.

[mlawler506]

Originally Posted by RooToo

Hello,

Yes, you are correct regarding the design of the seal as a simple gutter, but only being about a 1/4" wide at the most, any type of debris that gets in the seal prevents the water from draining properly, and then spills over the seal. The gutters that I have fabricated are 5/8" wide and can handle just about any deluge. and they look factory. i believe I have a grand total $20 invested for all three bunks
best regards

Can you describe what you are using as a gutter and where you bought it. Thanks in advance

[Millhouse]

Originally Posted by Mr Havercamp

I went a different way. For insurance I used storefront metal to fab a drip edge. All water is deflected onto the door surface. The flashing extends past the door by 1/4" then has a 30 degree hemmed turn down. Next time I'm up at the camper I'll post some pics.

Can u put a picture of this, I'm looking to make something up that I can leave on permanent to keep water away from the top seal area. And of course not interfer with the operation of the door. Thx

[indybp57]

Originally Posted by Mr Havercamp

About 99% of the time the water gets in at one of the top corners where they butt the seals together. The seal profile is essentially a gutter, at least the newer seals are. I know for a fact the 16's and 17's have this seal. When they do not extend the top horizontal seal a little past the side vertical seals and butt the top one tight down on the side ones, that's usually where the water comes in.

Here's what i posted on another thread of similar topic regarding this:

The horizontal seal at the top of the bunk door overhangs the vertical seals on the sides. Where they meet is a gap that can allow water infiltration, especially if they did a sloppy job trimming the ends where they come together. I filled those gaps with silicon, slapped some wax paper over it and closed the bunks before it cured. Give it a couple days, open the bunk and remove the wax paper and you have a nicely formed bridge between the two seals.

[JRnCO]

Originally Posted by Rodski

Well, other than replacing the seals which I'd rather not since some times that just makes things worse, I added some gutters and they seem to work great. We just had a downpour and I had no water penetration at all on both bunks. I think both gutters total cost around $10, plus a few bucks for caulk to adhere them to the Roo. I got them at HD in the roofing department. If I had to do over again, I would have cut them a few inches shorter, but overall I'm really happy with them.

You can see in the picts they just barely overhang the seals and keep a lot of the water from hitting the top seals. It took about 1/2 hr total to install.

Rodski,

Are you able to post an edge profile of that trim/flashing? I have a lowes closest to me, and couldn't quite find something close to that and/or suitable. They had standard galvanized 90deg lengths, but it seemed flimsy.

Thanks!

[Rodski]

I can but it will be a couple of weeks as its at storage. This is the product I bought at HD. Its flimsy until its applied then seems fairly rigid. I've traveled about 500 miles now and still on strong.