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Old 07-19-2015, 06:06 PM   #1
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Caulking and Sealing Roof and Other Seams

2013 23SS.

I'm looking for guidance on maintaining seals or replacing the caulking.

Did a roof inspection and noticed the caulking material is splitting and separating along various seams (vents etc). I've had no water penetration yet but figure I better get on this or I will have.

So...
1. Is it normal for this putty/ caulking to crack and split ? Just under 3 years

2. What is this material called? It's like a putty - stays pliable - is spread on pretty thick. Can you buy it yourself? Is there a better product to use ?

3. Is this a DIY job or should I take it some place? Looks like a mess to remove - how is it to reapply? Suggestions? Anyone already do it?

4. Any suggestions for the the other seals on the sides of the unit - looks like factory used a white silicone acrylic caulk?


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Old 07-19-2015, 06:20 PM   #2
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Yes, caulking will split and crack. You can use a product from Dicor. Most RV dealers will carry this product. It is very soft and pliable. Do not use silicone. I don't think factory used silicone. You will have to inspect and replace yearly.

Or better, you can use Eternabond and forget about it. Best to google their web site. You can place the Eternabond tape right over the caulking. You don't have to remove the old caulking or put on new. The Eternabond if installed correctly, it will last almost forever. It is all in the prepping and cleaning. Five years ago, I placed on a motorhome that I had and it was good as new when I sold it.
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Old 07-19-2015, 06:29 PM   #3
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yes, it's quite normal.

Dicor is what's used on roof. it can be a diy job. many RV owners do it themselves. should be able to find videos on how to remove and re-caulk.
without pics of what you're talking about on the sides, can't say. there is a Dicor product for vertical applications, different than for the roof.
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Old 07-19-2015, 06:44 PM   #4
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On the sides where the panels meet the nose, there is a caulk on mine that looks and feels like plumbers putty. Wonder what that stuff is?
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Old 07-19-2015, 07:06 PM   #5
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Just did mine. Dicor self-leveling for all flat areas and regular Dicor if you need to caulk down the side. Even with cracks, you most likely do not need to remove the old lap sealant. Just wipe if clean with mineral spirits, being very careful not to get any on your rubber roof. Error on the side of using too much new Dicor, a well-kept roof should look a little ugly. Used 7 tubes on a 39 ft. fiverůClick image for larger version

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Old 07-19-2015, 10:37 PM   #6
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All very very helpful. I appreciate all that was said. Great help.

Question - they say don't use Dicor for skylights ! Out of curiousity - why? It looks like the same sealant used on the other seams and joins that can be used on so ... But what should be used on the skylight caulking


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Old 07-19-2015, 11:31 PM   #7
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Old 07-19-2015, 11:40 PM   #8
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All the RV repair shops that I have dealt with do recommend removing the old caulking but over lapping the cracks that may form. The chance cutting out the old bead and damaging the rubber roof is to great at least for me to start removing the old. We have a 2014 233S and I have over lapped a few seams this year already. Just my thought


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Old 07-20-2015, 02:02 AM   #9
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Any issues walking/ kneeling on the rubber roof ?


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Old 07-20-2015, 02:13 AM   #10
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x2 with igray. the other dicor is the "non-sag". its used where you dont want the dicor to run. the dicor is better than the oem imo. just run it over the top of the existing sealant. it all becomes a part of the roof. a different caulk is recommended on the skylights. the volatiles in the dicor are hard on the plastic in the skylight. its butyl i believe...

edit: the roof will seer sucker a bit after caulking. this is normal and will settle back after the caulk kicks off..
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