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Old 07-19-2015, 05:06 PM   #1
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Caulking and Sealing Roof and Other Seams

2013 23SS.

I'm looking for guidance on maintaining seals or replacing the caulking.

Did a roof inspection and noticed the caulking material is splitting and separating along various seams (vents etc). I've had no water penetration yet but figure I better get on this or I will have.

So...
1. Is it normal for this putty/ caulking to crack and split ? Just under 3 years

2. What is this material called? It's like a putty - stays pliable - is spread on pretty thick. Can you buy it yourself? Is there a better product to use ?

3. Is this a DIY job or should I take it some place? Looks like a mess to remove - how is it to reapply? Suggestions? Anyone already do it?

4. Any suggestions for the the other seals on the sides of the unit - looks like factory used a white silicone acrylic caulk?


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Old 07-19-2015, 05:20 PM   #2
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Yes, caulking will split and crack. You can use a product from Dicor. Most RV dealers will carry this product. It is very soft and pliable. Do not use silicone. I don't think factory used silicone. You will have to inspect and replace yearly.

Or better, you can use Eternabond and forget about it. Best to google their web site. You can place the Eternabond tape right over the caulking. You don't have to remove the old caulking or put on new. The Eternabond if installed correctly, it will last almost forever. It is all in the prepping and cleaning. Five years ago, I placed on a motorhome that I had and it was good as new when I sold it.
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Old 07-19-2015, 05:29 PM   #3
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yes, it's quite normal.

Dicor is what's used on roof. it can be a diy job. many RV owners do it themselves. should be able to find videos on how to remove and re-caulk.
without pics of what you're talking about on the sides, can't say. there is a Dicor product for vertical applications, different than for the roof.
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Old 07-19-2015, 05:44 PM   #4
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On the sides where the panels meet the nose, there is a caulk on mine that looks and feels like plumbers putty. Wonder what that stuff is?
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Old 07-19-2015, 06:06 PM   #5
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Just did mine. Dicor self-leveling for all flat areas and regular Dicor if you need to caulk down the side. Even with cracks, you most likely do not need to remove the old lap sealant. Just wipe if clean with mineral spirits, being very careful not to get any on your rubber roof. Error on the side of using too much new Dicor, a well-kept roof should look a little ugly. Used 7 tubes on a 39 ft. fiver…Click image for larger version

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Old 07-19-2015, 09:37 PM   #6
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All very very helpful. I appreciate all that was said. Great help.

Question - they say don't use Dicor for skylights ! Out of curiousity - why? It looks like the same sealant used on the other seams and joins that can be used on so ... But what should be used on the skylight caulking


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Old 07-19-2015, 10:31 PM   #7
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Old 07-19-2015, 10:40 PM   #8
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All the RV repair shops that I have dealt with do recommend removing the old caulking but over lapping the cracks that may form. The chance cutting out the old bead and damaging the rubber roof is to great at least for me to start removing the old. We have a 2014 233S and I have over lapped a few seams this year already. Just my thought


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Old 07-20-2015, 01:02 AM   #9
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Any issues walking/ kneeling on the rubber roof ?


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Old 07-20-2015, 01:13 AM   #10
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x2 with igray. the other dicor is the "non-sag". its used where you dont want the dicor to run. the dicor is better than the oem imo. just run it over the top of the existing sealant. it all becomes a part of the roof. a different caulk is recommended on the skylights. the volatiles in the dicor are hard on the plastic in the skylight. its butyl i believe...

edit: the roof will seer sucker a bit after caulking. this is normal and will settle back after the caulk kicks off..
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Old 07-20-2015, 06:24 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CDNWhiskey View Post
Any issues walking/ kneeling on the rubber roof ?


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Should be ok with soft soled shoes. I try to keep the walking on it to a minimum if possible. Just added a ultra breeze fantastic fan cover to the front fan/vent. Had to remove some of the dicor around the vent trim, replace screws and redo the dicor where the brackets were attached for the cover. Wasn't a bad job at all and went well. We have a 2014 23ss and I've already "touched up" some dicor spots that looked suspect.
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Old 07-20-2015, 06:57 AM   #12
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Video

If you clean the old and use enough of the new Dicor, no need to remove the old unless it is flacking off, which should not be the case after just 3 years.

This stuff will harnden quickly in the hot summer sun and doesn't level much in its own. In fact I used self-leveling down the sides.

Nasty tough stuff, I would not want to use anything else around skylight...Trilogy had it there from the factory.

Here is a great video worth watching.

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Old 07-20-2015, 07:08 AM   #13
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Thanks for posting video. Good info. Later RJD
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Old 07-20-2015, 09:21 AM   #14
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heres the stuff they ship with a new replacement skylight. someone want to research it? I got a doctor appt.
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Old 07-20-2015, 12:04 PM   #15
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I have read that Dicor isn't compatible with Alpha roofs. The OP didn't state what roof he has, but my 2016 23LB came with paperwork from Alpha. If that is the case, then would he need the Alpha caulk like Crockett posted above?
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Old 07-20-2015, 02:35 PM   #16
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Dicor makes a self-leveling lap sealant for TPO roofs. Look for Dicor 610. I think the EPDM version is Dicor 501. The tubes are different colors - 610 is blue, 501 is yellow-green.

I tried the Alpha product this Spring and it flows about the same as the Dicor I used on the TPO roof of our previous Roo.

Do not use a silicone based sealant.

For the vertical joints where you don't want the sag, I use ProFlex RV Sealant.
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Old 07-20-2015, 03:04 PM   #17
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I did what the video Igray posted last year and this year had only a small spot to do. Mineral spirits is the key but use it sparingly a clean surface makes it adhere better.
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Old 07-20-2015, 03:31 PM   #18
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X2 on the eternabond tape. You can apply a wide tape if you so desire to have even more coverage. I used a 2" wide width as one can see the top of a pop up and I did not want it looking too strange. It gave me a bit over 1" of roof cover beyond the joint. I am very satisfied with it and will not worry about leaks as I know it seals up tight.

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Old 07-20-2015, 04:32 PM   #19
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When I had my rv in for inspection in March I picked up a tube of Dicor to have on hand just in case. The service manage told me not to use it around the skylite. So I got a tube of caulk for just skylite use only ,plus a different tube of Dicor for the sides.
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Old 07-20-2015, 05:05 PM   #20
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Deed is done. Used Dicor. Did as suggested and on video. The cleaning was the hardest part only because it's tedious but also like always the most important part. Under the grim found a few hidden cracks that weren't visible unless cleaned.

Yeah the roof is a little uglier now but well sealed.

All in all a great success thanks to everyone here. Thank you.

Ps. Only stepped in my fresh caulking once. Sigh. Love DIY.


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