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Old 05-14-2016, 07:59 AM   #11
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Try a drum sander on the bottom of the socket.

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Old 05-14-2016, 07:59 AM   #12
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Mine is 2016 year and have the same issues.

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Old 05-14-2016, 08:04 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by aceinspp View Post
Also look to see how much cant is on the ball. Mine seemed to be more on my equal i ser hitch than my last hitch and does make it a tad bit harder to release. Later RJD

No cant whatsover here. I dont use a wdh, just a class 5 2 1/2" straight drawbar.....its something related to the manufacture and design of the trailers hitch that LCI used on these frames. It works, its just annoying as hell.
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Old 05-14-2016, 08:06 AM   #14
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grease, grease ,grease lots of grease up inside and always pull forward after you caulk your wheels and when you unlatch pull latch lever back as you raise your TT I don't have a problem now
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Old 05-14-2016, 08:44 AM   #15
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I have this problem every time I go to unhitch. Grease helps but is not the answer for me. When ready to unhitch I pull the pin to the hitch/ hitch receiver in the truck. With the trailer chalked I slowly start to jack the trailer, will see the hitch pull out of the receiver 1/4 to 1/2". At that point I rock the hitch back-and-forth and it the drops out of the coupler. No idea if this is good practice or not, it's just what I've had to do to get it unhitched. Works every time for me
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Old 05-14-2016, 09:00 AM   #16
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I had the same problem. Now I stand on the hitch and jump up and down so the hitch "bounces" while DW extends the hitch jack. Seems to work most every time.
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Old 05-14-2016, 09:13 AM   #17
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The problem is most likely the pitch of the ball itself. I see a good many washers on the adjustment pin. Raising the tongue will help ease the pinch on the ball. I wouldn't start grinding or sanding on anything. If the hitch slides on easily, it should come off as well.

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Old 05-14-2016, 09:25 AM   #18
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You can pull forward or back, grind or sand, or raise or lower as high or low as you want but its in the design or manufacturer of the coupler itself that LCI used on these current frames. Not sure if they made it in house or obtained it from a supplier but they are just tight. I'd think the only way to get it to be like a normal one that we're all used to, would be to cut the damn thing off and weld on a new quality one like an Atwood or Fulton instead of the generic junk they used.
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Old 05-14-2016, 10:07 AM   #19
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Coupler is very hard to release

Originally Posted by cheeseheadjim View Post
I just picked up my Shamrock 23IKSS and it is great except that the coupler is very difficult to release from the ball. I can release the latch fine but the ball won't drop out of the coupler. I'll be working more on it today but wondered if there's a secret to getting the ball to drop ?

Attachment 107815Attachment 107816

You need to pull the latch up THEN slide it backwards. I have the same trailer.

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Old 05-14-2016, 11:24 AM   #20
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Coupler difficult to release

The best tip I've had for getting the coupler to release, or to be able to lock on, for our trailer was from the service manager at the dealer (who came out in the rain to help me ). First, as another has mentioned, make sure the trailer is on flat ground or is chocked. Then put the tow vehicle in neutral so it can relax whatever horizontal tension there is on the ball. This has been a huge help for coupling and uncoupling our Rockwood 8319SS travel trailer.

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