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Old 02-08-2014, 10:50 PM   #11
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There's an easy fix for a fan in the fridge: install a switch. If it's not real hot and the fridge can keep up, turn it off.
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Old 02-09-2014, 12:32 AM   #12
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We don't dry camp (yet) but while I was researching options for keeping the batteries recharged in storage I came across this guy's site: http://www.mdpub.com/Wind_Turbine/

I eventually found a different solution for my needs, but it keep this one bookmarked in case we ever do dry camp. I figure I can count on wind and solar setup to be more consistent over just a straight solar one. Plus I like the idea of a low cost option over what people are charging for solar these days.
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Old 02-12-2014, 09:20 AM   #13
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Thanks for the ideas guys. Cant wait to get the trailer in hand so I can really see what is installed and how much power it uses.
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Old 02-12-2014, 09:28 AM   #14
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One thing I've done on every camper is to check amps on every fuse
in the panel.
It's an education fer sure!
Just pull each fuse one at a time and place meter set on high amps
scale across the fuseholder. Lower the scale as needed. I was surprised
to find even the power center charger itself is a battery drain when
the trailer is not plugged into shore power.
I used to pull the main fuses when my trailer was in storage to save
having a dead battery when I wanted to go camping.

A battery main disconnect switch should be standard on every trailer but
it's rare to find one from the factory.
Many of us have installed our own.
This is one of the best one's--Amazon.com: Blue Sea Systems 6006 m-Series (Mini) Battery Switch Single Circuit ON/OFF: Sports & Outdoors
it also comes in a 2 battery version.
Just google battery switch and see your options.
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Old 02-12-2014, 09:35 AM   #15
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Okay thanks. I'm pretty sure the new trailer has one already installed inside near the power center.
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Old 02-12-2014, 09:47 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davylee View Post
Okay thanks. I'm pretty sure the new trailer has one already installed inside near the power center.
Yes, your Roo will come with a factory installed disconnect. The nice thing, besides the convenience of not having to pull the fuse or disconnect the battery wires, is that the disconnect will bypass the power tongue jack, so that is operational all the time, but you won't have to worry about a dead battery.
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Old 02-12-2014, 09:50 AM   #17
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Yep, new 23ss do have the battery disconnect. Saying that, I never had the chance to really go thru and completely check out all the electricals in our 23ss. We got ours late October and here in s.e. Mich never had much of a chance to "really check" everything out.
Need to get rid of winter and all this confounded snow!

Congrats and enjoy your new trailer when it arrives!
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Old 02-12-2014, 10:37 AM   #18
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If for some reason it doesn't have the disconnect, you can do like one our camping buddies did. He picked up an automotive relay rated at 30 amps, a fuse holder and a simple 12v switch, and put it all in a project box and viola, he's got a disconnect. Wired it so that when the switch is on, the relay would be energized, thereby closing the circuit on the main lead into the trailer. He made sure to wire it this way so that the parasitic drain of his switch loop to control the relay coincided with the the drain on the battery so it would only be used as the battery is being used. And when off, the battery was off and there was zero drain.

Then he had to smack himself when I asked him why he didn't just spend a bit more get a higher rated switch and switch the main line directly.
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Old 02-12-2014, 02:27 PM   #19
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So your buddy bought a switch and a relay and a fuse holder and a
project box to disconnect the battery??
All that instead of just a battery disconnect switch?

Glad to hear that some manufacturers are installing battery switches!
I still urge folks to do the amp meter test on fuses.
It was an eye opener to me. I took notes. It was interesting to see
how much drain the on board charger was when it wasn't charging.
Also interesting to flip on a light or 2 and see how much they use.
Other things like LP detectors and what can sometimes be a biggie--
the fridge on LP mode!

Some folks have found their fridge has a -heater- in the metal strip
between freezer and fresh food doors. This is to eliminate condensation
on that little area. Mine has a switch to shut it off. I keep it off always.
Some others have said they found they had the heater but no switch to
shut it off!! When you are trying to camp off the grid - who cares
about a little condensation on the fridge??
I could maybe agree about the anti condensation heater in very humid
conditions EXCEPT it's NOT 120 v ac heater. It's 12v DC and it's a battery
hog when you're boon docking!
BTW, there is a work around for that if you have that problem.

All those things and more is why it can be educational to do the amp
check for all circuits.
Do it when the trailer is not plugged in to shore power.

If you never boondock you probably don't care.
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Old 02-12-2014, 03:02 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KyDan View Post
Glad to hear that some manufacturers are installing battery switches!
Yep. I have a picture of a Sabre with one being wired up.
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