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Old 08-19-2016, 07:56 AM   #11
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Etrailer is lots of help

Scroll down on link below for plug wiring diagrams



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Old 08-19-2016, 08:11 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by husky family View Post
Hi Everyone, I'm in need of some electrical technical assistance. I have a 2014 Roo 233s trailer. On my last trip I somehow managed to cut the 7-pin power cable from my TV to to the trailer (I think I backed up too sharp when parking and it got caught in the weight distribution hitch bars or something). I spliced the damaged wires back together at the campground before departing for home. Everything works except the auxiliary and tail lights (which I believe to be the brown wire). Power brakes, brake lights, turn signals all work. Also, all lights work on my TV, no issues there.

My question is there some hidden fuse that I could have blown when the cable was damaged? Maybe the wire shorted out on the power or ground?? I looked underneath but saw no fuse, or any other cable damage.

Thanks in advance!
I did the same thing a few years back in the North Woods,,,
After splicing all the wires back together,,, I found a blown fuse under the hood of our F-150 !!! We went to the nearest FORD dealer and had it replaced,,, I carry a lot of extra fuses with me,,, but did not have that one !!!

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Old 08-19-2016, 08:36 AM   #13
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Look in your truck manual for the fuse location. The Silverado has a listing what each fuse does and where to find it. My fuse box was under the hood.
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2014 GMC Sierra Crewcab 2500 Duramax
2014 Wildcat 327ck
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Old 08-19-2016, 10:09 AM   #14
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Junction Box

I wired a new plug inside my truck box (// to existing bumper plug") for my 5er cable that now hangs down directly into the box.......I also replaced the metal junction box up under the 5er hitch with a "plastic" electrical box.....Original cable got caught and pulled it out shorting the 12v and caused arking and burnt wiring......New wiring connections are soldered and taped--no wiring connectors to come loose.. This is a common fault in the wiring....bare wires just twisted together with marrets.....come apart..J
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Old 08-19-2016, 10:30 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by stevejahr View Post
I would have replaced the metal house wiring junction box with one of these if I had known about them before I did my cable replacement:
Trailer Wiring Junction Box Spectro Accessories and Parts 38656

Forest River method: twist each pair of wires together (sometimes that means 4 wires) and wire nut them.
Junction box method: crimp/solder on a ring terminal on each wire and run trailer wire in one side of post and connector cable in other side of post. All rather neat, tidy, and easy to replace cable if ever needed.
I am liking that!

Mine is under the pin box and jam packed with wires. REAL pain in the back trying to track down an "open" because my battery would not charge. (Turned out it was a corroded connection at the "truck to battery current limiter")
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Old 08-19-2016, 12:31 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Herk7769 View Post
I am liking that!
Happy to feed your mod work queue as you have mine (and I *hate* going on roofs but that is where the A/C is so...).
Originally Posted by Herk7769 View Post
Mine is under the pin box and jam packed with wires. REAL pain in the back trying to track down an "open" because my battery would not charge. (Turned out it was a corroded connection at the "truck to battery current limiter")
Yeah *that* would be a sneaky little circuit breaker and the version on my bumper tow TT had umpteen wires all connected on this side or that side.

I generally prefer circuit breakers to NOT self reset, to have a visible sign of being tripped, and maybe to have a trip test feature. I hate these little box breakers as they fail my visibility test. Something like this is much better:

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