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Old 08-22-2015, 05:28 PM   #21
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Mine works just as fast on electric
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Old 08-22-2015, 05:32 PM   #22
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I installed a switch with pilot light in my bathroom so I can turn the electric heater on and off without going outside to the water heater. Allows me turn it off if I decide to run something that pulls a lot of amps.

First pic is the new electric box. (You have to replace the old one because there is now place to run a new wire into the box and because the outlet doesn't have screws, it uses metal slots that pierces the wire's insulation when you close it up.)

Second pic is the hole for the new switch box under the bathroom sink.

Third pic shows the switch box installed.

Fourth pic shows the final installation

Last is the wiring diagram and Menards part #. (I had to order it on-line to get it in brown.)
Now I like this! I have always assumed people tackled the little switch in the heater area when they installed these. Never occurred to me to tackle the 120 outlet. We've just been flipping the breaker to turn it on and off.

As above ours is plugged into a single outlet under an access panel in the wardrobe.

Bikendan, I think I know what he is saying. I think our might be the same. But, I have never had it read correctly. I must be doing something wrong but the propane gauges never seam to read correctly. The one on our tanks says it is in the green when the tank is empty... I think I was told it is a flow issue to make them read right. IE no high flow not enough to read correct?
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Old 08-22-2015, 05:35 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by wnelsonfl View Post
Mine works just as fast on electric
You have an exceptional electric element then.
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Old 08-22-2015, 05:40 PM   #24
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I use ours to maintain the heat while out and about. Shower time, the propano goes on to keep the DW happy in the shower..
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Old 08-23-2015, 11:32 AM   #25
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Running an extension cord to power your hot water is in interesting concept. How did you isolate the wiring from the circuit breaker the manufacture installed, and what if the additional 110vac is a different phase of 110, thus producing 220
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Old 08-23-2015, 12:00 PM   #26
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Running an extension cord to power your hot water is in interesting concept. How did you isolate the wiring from the circuit breaker the manufacture installed, and what if the additional 110vac is a different phase of 110, thus producing 220
The water heater is plugged into a regular 110 outlet. It is the only outlet on the 15 amp circuit. It is just a matter of unplugging it from the outlet and plugging it into the extension cord.

The additional outlet on the post is just a regular 20 amp outlet, nothing special. Modern posts have a 50 amp/220 outlet, a 30 amp/110 outlet and the 20 amp/110 volt outlet. All have separate breakers.
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Old 08-23-2015, 10:14 PM   #27
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rockfordroo, did you use a GFI circuit for the switch that you installed in the bathroom cabinet which could be touched while using the sink or shower? Could be a safety hazard for someone to get a good shock from. I like the idea you had but I think I would have put the switch outside the bathroom.
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Old 08-23-2015, 11:05 PM   #28
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rockfordroo, did you use a GFI circuit for the switch that you installed in the bathroom cabinet which could be touched while using the sink or shower? Could be a safety hazard for someone to get a good shock from. I like the idea you had but I think I would have put the switch outside the bathroom.
I replaced the original electrical box and outlet with a new box and outlet; located in the same place - smack dab under the drain of the bathroom sink. So if the sink drain were to leak, it would have dripped right onto the original box, with no GFI. Typically the GFI is to protect you when handling something plugged into the outlet that might get wet and you're handling it and making "the ground path." Since I'm not handling anything electrical, and the switch handle itself is insulated, I figure I'm OK. I COULD replace the standard outlet with a GFI, but as I said, I think I'm OK.
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Old 08-23-2015, 11:26 PM   #29
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The water heater is plugged into a regular 110 outlet. It is the only outlet on the 15 amp circuit. It is just a matter of unplugging it from the outlet and plugging it into the extension cord.
Do you have to leave a hatch/access door open to run the cord?
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Old 08-24-2015, 05:32 AM   #30
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Do you have to leave a hatch/access door open to run the cord?
I do right now but keep it closed as much as possible with a bungee cord. I have purchased a small access hatch to install next to the door.

Amazon.com: RV Camper Power Cord Hatch / Cover - White - Brand New: Automotive
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