Electricity for Water Heater?

[wnelsonfl]

Mine works just as fast on electric

[doc73]

Originally Posted by rockfordroo

I installed a switch with pilot light in my bathroom so I can turn the electric heater on and off without going outside to the water heater. Allows me turn it off if I decide to run something that pulls a lot of amps.

First pic is the new electric box. (You have to replace the old one because there is now place to run a new wire into the box and because the outlet doesn't have screws, it uses metal slots that pierces the wire's insulation when you close it up.)

Second pic is the hole for the new switch box under the bathroom sink.

Third pic shows the switch box installed.

Fourth pic shows the final installation

Last is the wiring diagram and Menards part #. (I had to order it on-line to get it in brown.)

Now I like this! I have always assumed people tackled the little switch in the heater area when they installed these. Never occurred to me to tackle the 120 outlet. We've just been flipping the breaker to turn it on and off.

As above ours is plugged into a single outlet under an access panel in the wardrobe.

Bikendan, I think I know what he is saying. I think our might be the same. But, I have never had it read correctly. I must be doing something wrong but the propane gauges never seam to read correctly. The one on our tanks says it is in the green when the tank is empty... I think I was told it is a flow issue to make them read right. IE no high flow not enough to read correct?

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by wnelsonfl

Mine works just as fast on electric

You have an exceptional electric element then.

[doc73]

I use ours to maintain the heat while out and about. Shower time, the propano goes on to keep the DW happy in the shower..

[Dc8mdtmech]

Running an extension cord to power your hot water is in interesting concept. How did you isolate the wiring from the circuit breaker the manufacture installed, and what if the additional 110vac is a different phase of 110, thus producing 220

[cpd1343]

Originally Posted by Dc8mdtmech

Running an extension cord to power your hot water is in interesting concept. How did you isolate the wiring from the circuit breaker the manufacture installed, and what if the additional 110vac is a different phase of 110, thus producing 220

The water heater is plugged into a regular 110 outlet. It is the only outlet on the 15 amp circuit. It is just a matter of unplugging it from the outlet and plugging it into the extension cord.

The additional outlet on the post is just a regular 20 amp outlet, nothing special. Modern posts have a 50 amp/220 outlet, a 30 amp/110 outlet and the 20 amp/110 volt outlet. All have separate breakers.

[RCCS]

rockfordroo, did you use a GFI circuit for the switch that you installed in the bathroom cabinet which could be touched while using the sink or shower? Could be a safety hazard for someone to get a good shock from. I like the idea you had but I think I would have put the switch outside the bathroom.

[rockfordroo]

Originally Posted by RCCS

rockfordroo, did you use a GFI circuit for the switch that you installed in the bathroom cabinet which could be touched while using the sink or shower? Could be a safety hazard for someone to get a good shock from. I like the idea you had but I think I would have put the switch outside the bathroom.

I replaced the original electrical box and outlet with a new box and outlet; located in the same place - smack dab under the drain of the bathroom sink. So if the sink drain were to leak, it would have dripped right onto the original box, with no GFI. Typically the GFI is to protect you when handling something plugged into the outlet that might get wet and you're handling it and making "the ground path." Since I'm not handling anything electrical, and the switch handle itself is insulated, I figure I'm OK. I COULD replace the standard outlet with a GFI, but as I said, I think I'm OK.

[howie70]

Originally Posted by cpd1343

The water heater is plugged into a regular 110 outlet. It is the only outlet on the 15 amp circuit. It is just a matter of unplugging it from the outlet and plugging it into the extension cord.

Do you have to leave a hatch/access door open to run the cord?

[cpd1343]

Originally Posted by howie70

Do you have to leave a hatch/access door open to run the cord?

I do right now but keep it closed as much as possible with a bungee cord. I have purchased a small access hatch to install next to the door.

Amazon.com: RV Camper Power Cord Hatch / Cover - White - Brand New: Automotive

[dcheatwood]

I use electric only with dw and I, unless it's unavailable. Save your propane. If you need more hot water, turn on both. (Multiple showers back to back)
Also, carry a small cube heater for chilly nights. Again, save your propane.

[drhroo]

Been using electricity the past 2 days. Works great. We do need to get a heater before our next trip. All in all things are working out great.

[Flybob]

Originally Posted by cpd1343

The water heater is plugged into a regular 110 outlet. It is the only outlet on the 15 amp circuit. It is just a matter of unplugging it from the outlet and plugging it into the extension cord.

The additional outlet on the post is just a regular 20 amp outlet, nothing special. Modern posts have a 50 amp/220 outlet, a 30 amp/110 outlet and the 20 amp/110 volt outlet. All have separate breakers.

This may or may not work depending on how the campground is wired. For example a campground that I stay at often has 30A /20A pedestals Three sites are then run through a 100A breaker in a sub panel. If all three sites used both the 30A and the 20A outlet to close to full capacity, they would trip the breaker upstream. I say this because I have seen it happen when three large units ran AC and other items on the 30A and then connected griddles and coffee pots to the 20A.

[howie70]

Originally Posted by Flybob

This may or may not work depending on how the campground is wired. For example a campground that I stay at often has 30A /20A pedestals Three sites are then run through a 100A breaker in a sub panel. If all three sites used both the 30A and the 20A outlet to close to full capacity, they would trip the breaker upstream. I say this because I have seen it happen when three large units ran AC and other items on the 30A and then connected griddles and coffee pots to the 20A.

Sounds like it has been working fine for him.

[cpd1343]

Originally Posted by Flybob

This may or may not work depending on how the campground is wired. For example a campground that I stay at often has 30A /20A pedestals Three sites are then run through a 100A breaker in a sub panel. If all three sites used both the 30A and the 20A outlet to close to full capacity, they would trip the breaker upstream. I say this because I have seen it happen when three large units ran AC and other items on the 30A and then connected griddles and coffee pots to the 20A.

What you say is true. When an apartment building or camp ground or other large system is designed, there is a formula used to determine what size electrical service to provide based on projected need. The two numbers are never the same. The formula may say that you only need to provide 70 or 80 percent of the projected load/demand. So if you have 150 amps of possible maximum need it may work out that you only need to provide 100 amps of service. They figure the chances of maxing out the load are small.

[cpd1343]

Originally Posted by howie70

Sounds like it has been working fine for him.

And it has worked out fine for me so far. Maybe just lucky.