Fan in fuse box?

[smalt]

When we turn on some lights a fan noise starts in the fuse box, and stops when we turn the light off. Not all lights though. Anyone know what this could be? 2006 ROO 23SS
Thanks!

[CHICKDOE]

cooling fan for converter / charger. when you turn the lights on you are using 12 volt dc power. the converter / charger converts 110 volt ac power to 12 volt dc power. your batteries can also supply 12 volt dc power. but in either case the converter / charger fires up to supply 12 volt dc power to run the lights and/or recharge the batteries. the fan turns on to cool it as it is supplying this power.

[bikendan]

As was said, converter fan.
Most common cause is weak/low/bad battery.

[SeaDog]

X2 what bikendan said

[smalt]

Thanks. Our battery is not connected because we are plugged in to 30 amp service, should we connect the battery?

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by smalt

Thanks. Our battery is not connected because we are plugged in to 30 amp service, should we connect the battery?

I had a 2007 23SS and I never plugged my Roo into shore power without the battery.

[smalt]

Thanks for the help!

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by smalt

Thanks. Our battery is not connected because we are plugged in to 30 amp service, should we connect the battery?

Yes, the battery should always be connected in order to extend the life of the voltage converter.

Rapid surges in 12 volt demand (like opening a slide or turning on the furnace) are first supplied by the battery as the converter ramps up to provide that demand.

Without a battery in the circuit, the converter is the sole supplier of DC voltage and current for your devices. Rapid changes in demand can be supplied by the converter, but voltage will vary until the converter catches up with the load.

The cooling fan will run anytime the bridge recifiers (that do the conversion from AC to DC) get hot. Without a battery that pretty much happens immediately.

With a battery to initially supply heavy loads and moderate voltage transients, the life of the converter (and your DC motors) is extended.

[cavie]

Originally Posted by Herk7769

Yes, the battery should always be connected in order to extend the life of the voltage converter.

Rapid surges in 12 volt demand (like opening a slide or turning on the furnace) are first supplied by the battery as the converter ramps up to provide that demand.

Without a battery in the circuit, the converter is the sole supplier of DC voltage and current for your devices. Rapid changes in demand can be supplied by the converter, but voltage will vary until the converter catches up with the load.

The cooling fan will run anytime the bridge recifiers (that do the conversion from AC to DC) get hot. Without a battery that pretty much happens immediately.

With a battery to initially supply heavy loads and moderate voltage transients, the life of the converter (and your DC motors) is extended.

yep ( I stole this)

[CHICKDOE]

i had a query into a converter manufacturer asking why all the different models of the converters with different amperage capacities and how it was determined which capacity converter to put into the different rvs. their reply was that there is a RVIA standard that the converter must supply 1/2 of the amperage that the rv could require. the expectation was that the battery would supply power for high amperage devices and the converter would recharge the battery though time at a lower but steadier amperage.

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by CHICKDOE

i had a query into a converter manufacturer asking why all the different models of the converters with different amperage capacities and how it was determined which capacity converter to put into the different rvs. their reply was that there is a RVIA standard that the converter must supply 1/2 of the amperage that the rv could require. the expectation was that the battery would supply power for high amperage devices and the converter would recharge the battery though time at a lower but steadier amperage.

Yep; my understanding as well.

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by CHICKDOE

i had a query into a converter manufacturer asking why all the different models of the converters with different amperage capacities and how it was determined which capacity converter to put into the different rvs. their reply was that there is a RVIA standard that the converter must supply 1/2 of the amperage that the rv could require. the expectation was that the battery would supply power for high amperage devices and the converter would recharge the battery though time at a lower but steadier amperage.

There's nothing wrong with installing a larger converter than what came with your unit if you have the room. Larger ones usually last longer as they don't work as hard and strain the electrical structure.

[Former Navy]

If you do leave your batteries connected all the time, and are connected to shore power all the time...just make sure to check the battery water level periodically. Especially in Hot Climates.

[amblt]

We just acquired a gently used TT and the light over the dinette table had two automotive incandescent bulbs installed. Changed to LED- no more cooling fan, and much more efficiency.