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Old 11-09-2015, 05:47 PM   #21
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Can't you just blow the water lines and pull the filter then replace the filter housing and suck antifreeze in by the filler hole near the HW heater? Do you have to depress this valve? Worried about breaking it


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I don't know why Mr Havercamp thinks you'd need to open this check valve. Just open a faucet and the pressure will drop to zero.

If you blow the lines out with air, you don't really need the AF. I blew out my Roo 19 for 3 yrs, never added AF, except to the drains and tanks. Blew out my Mini Lite this fall, only added AF to drains and tanks.

I also haven't worried too much about the compressor regulator setting, either. On these little 2-3 gal air compressors, if you've got a faucet open, the pressure drops so fast that it never really gets over 50 psi anywhere in the system. The PEX and fittings should be good for 100 lbs. Now if you were using a 50 gal shop air compressor, it would be a whole 'nother story.
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Old 11-10-2015, 09:26 AM   #22
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I always did mine with 40 psi, and I am only adding AF to tanks and drains not the lines, this way I can clean the lines with Bleach in the spring before the first run of the season which for me is not until mid May


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Old 11-13-2015, 06:22 PM   #23
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Can I get away with a Harbor Freight sale compressor? I see a blow out plug at Walmart, that is white plastic also....?


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Old 11-13-2015, 08:27 PM   #24
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Can I get away with a Harbor Freight sale compressor? I see a blow out plug at Walmart, that is white plastic also....?


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That's basically what I use. Mine's pretty much like this one:

Campbell Hausfeld 3 Gallon, 110psi Air Compressor & 11pc Accessory Set Bundle - Walmart.com
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2009 Silverado 1500 Ext Cab, 5.3L, 4x4, 3.73
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