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Old 10-24-2015, 08:22 PM   #1
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Few more questions about winterizing

Do I leave the caps off the low point drains while blowing the lines out with air? Do I open them again after blowing lines out again? And I've watched some videos and they show you leave the valves on all the faucets open after putting antifreeze in the lines? Just in case something freezes.. What method do you use?


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Old 11-01-2015, 07:05 AM   #2
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I have a 2016 23ss roo and on the side of the camper their is a sticker that says low point drains yet I see no caps as some have talked about is that the black and gray tank valves ?
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Old 11-01-2015, 07:27 AM   #3
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Leave open one faucet, connect air to city water at no more that 30lbs pressure. Male sure water heater is drained and bypassed.

Fire up the compressor.

Wait until water stops blowing out out 1st faucet, then open another and close 1st. Follow that procedure going around and doing all faucets including the shower hose if you have one and outside shower. Do the two low point drains last.

After pumping in the antifreeze and you know it flowed to all areas, make sure you depress the spring loaded back-check in city water connection, open all valves. Just unscrew the low point drain caps about 1/2 way.
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Old 11-01-2015, 07:28 AM   #4
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I have a 2016 23ss roo and on the side of the camper their is a sticker that says low point drains yet I see no caps as some have talked about is that the black and gray tank valves ?
They will be underneath, two pieces of pex tube sticking down out of the floor somewhere, usually red and blue.
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Old 11-01-2015, 08:04 AM   #5
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Do I leave the caps off the low point drains while blowing the lines out with air? Do I open them again after blowing lines out again? And I've watched some videos and they show you leave the valves on all the faucets open after putting antifreeze in the lines? Just in case something freezes.. What method do you use?


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To answer your question the caps are "on" while blowing out the lines. Drain and bypass the water heater. After opening all faucets remove the caps to drain the lines, this will also drain about 3/4 of the water from your water filter. Replace the caps, close all the faucets and connect the air to the fresh water line. with 30 to 40 lbs of air pressure on the system open each faucet starting at the farthest end closing it when only air comes out. Do this to all the hot and cold water faucets in the RV. Don't forget the outside shower if you have one. Remove low water drain caps again to release any remaining water in the low lines. Remove filter housing, filter and the strainer bowl from the pump. Power or "bump" the pump a few times just to be sure there isn't water in it. Drain all tanks and add the pink stuff to the traps. Your done in about an hour.
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Old 11-01-2015, 11:48 AM   #6
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But can you do this in colder climates, like NY, Northern NJ, and Penn, where it gets into the 'teens on a regular basis?


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Old 11-01-2015, 03:29 PM   #7
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To answer your question the caps are "on" while blowing out the lines. Drain and bypass the water heater. After opening all faucets remove the caps to drain the lines, this will also drain about 3/4 of the water from your water filter. Replace the caps, close all the faucets and connect the air to the fresh water line. with 30 to 40 lbs of air pressure on the system open each faucet starting at the farthest end closing it when only air comes out. Do this to all the hot and cold water faucets in the RV. Don't forget the outside shower if you have one. Remove low water drain caps again to release any remaining water in the low lines. Remove filter housing, filter and the strainer bowl from the pump. Power or "bump" the pump a few times just to be sure there isn't water in it. Drain all tanks and add the pink stuff to the traps. Your done in about an hour.
I have read that some as far north as Canada use this method. If you feel better after blowing everything out send the pink stuff through the water system.
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Old 11-01-2015, 03:33 PM   #8
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I have been under my 23ss roo and being a clean underside I see no blue and red caps at all both inside or on the outside of the frame rails
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Old 11-01-2015, 05:04 PM   #9
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well I found the caps the sticker is near the tires on the left side and the caps are in the very rear corner on the left side behind the skirting that's curls. I was 6 feet away from where the sticker says low point drains
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Old 11-01-2015, 06:23 PM   #10
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Mine are directly behind the sticker, next to the skirting. Red and a blue tube with black tops. Look like big vertical straws! Top may be hard to get off the first time. Just winterized this afternoon. Moved her to the side lot and now begins the long wait for spring😟
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Old 11-07-2015, 02:18 PM   #11
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Still looking for the drain caps in the 183Roo......


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Old 11-07-2015, 02:19 PM   #12
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And the "sticker" you mention is marking the location of the drains?


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Old 11-07-2015, 07:02 PM   #13
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And the "sticker" you mention is marking the location of the drains?
Yes. You may need to look around a little underneath, as they don't always stick the sticker directly "in front" of the drains. But they should be close, somewhere.
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Old 11-08-2015, 12:05 AM   #14
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How do you get the low point drain caps off? I turned and turned but they would not come off. Do you just pull them straight down? Thanks.
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Old 11-08-2015, 01:04 PM   #15
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They screw off. You'll probably need a pair of slip-joint pliers for the cap and wrench for the fitting. The factory really puts them on tight for some unknown reason.
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Old 11-08-2015, 07:33 PM   #16
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Leave open one faucet, connect air to city water at no more that 30lbs pressure. Male sure water heater is drained and bypassed.

Fire up the compressor.

Wait until water stops blowing out out 1st faucet, then open another and close 1st. Follow that procedure going around and doing all faucets including the shower hose if you have one and outside shower. Do the two low point drains last.

After pumping in the antifreeze and you know it flowed to all areas, make sure you depress the spring loaded back-check in city water connection, open all valves. Just unscrew the low point drain caps about 1/2 way.

Um I have a 2015 Roo 23IKSS and I don't know what you are talking about when you say Spring Loaded Back-Check cap for City Water Inlet? What is that? I don't seem to have one?


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Old 11-08-2015, 09:39 PM   #17
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Um I have a 2015 Roo 23IKSS and I don't know what you are talking about when you say Spring Loaded Back-Check cap for City Water Inlet? What is that? I don't seem to have one?


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Your city water inlet has a check valve inside of it. If you look into the connection, you'll see it's not just a hole. This check valve is what keeps your fresh water, when being pumped by your water pump, from coming out of the city water connection. (There's a similar check valve built into your water pump so city water doesn't flow into the FW tank.)

You can stick a small nail or something like that into your city water connection to momentarily open the check valve. Be careful not to damage it, though.

I seem to recall someone posting a pic of it. You could try searching for it.
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Old 11-08-2015, 09:55 PM   #18
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Your city water inlet has a check valve inside of it. If you look into the connection, you'll see it's not just a hole. This check valve is what keeps your fresh water, when being pumped by your water pump, from coming out of the city water connection. (There's a similar check valve built into your water pump so city water doesn't flow into the FW tank.)

You can stick a small nail or something like that into your city water connection to momentarily open the check valve. Be careful not to damage it, though.

I seem to recall someone posting a pic of it. You could try searching for it.
You have to remove the screen and washer at your city water connection and then you will see it...it's just a spring loaded tab. Stand to the side when you press it or you will be taking a RV antifreeze shower. Don't ask how I found this out!
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Old 11-09-2015, 10:58 AM   #19
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You have to remove the screen and washer at your city water connection and then you will see it...it's just a spring loaded tab. Stand to the side when you press it or you will be taking a RV antifreeze shower. Don't ask how I found this out!

Can't you just blow the water lines and pull the filter then replace the filter housing and suck antifreeze in by the filler hole near the HW heater? Do you have to depress this valve? Worried about breaking it


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Old 11-09-2015, 11:07 AM   #20
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183 Low Point Drains

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Still looking for the drain caps in the 183Roo......


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I had a 2008 183 that either 1) did not have low point drains or 2) they managed to elude me.

Winterized the RV for 7 years without a problem.

My new camper has low point drains. Also, the fresh water tank drain petcock is accessed from underneath the camper at the bottom of the tank as is the case with most. The 183 drain was accessed from inside the camper with the opening in the lower side of the tank.
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