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Old 08-12-2014, 08:11 PM   #1
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Fridge confusion

The camper ( 2015 2IKSS)
is in the driveway connected to shore power. The plug that the camper is plugged up to is controlled by switch on the inside. Wife turned the switch that controls plug off. I have the fridge on gas mode only and the and the fridge in the on mode (not auto). I was thinking the fridge would stay on and keep cooling with the gas on but it did not stay cool. Is something wrong with the fridge or did this happen because I did not have the auto switch turned on?
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Old 08-12-2014, 08:14 PM   #2
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How is the battery? Even tho you are on LP you still need 12 volt battery power.
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Old 08-12-2014, 08:39 PM   #3
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In gas mode you still need 12 vdc so your battery disconnect switch should be pulled out (on).
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Old 08-12-2014, 09:15 PM   #4
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The battery disconnect was turned on (pushed in). My pup fridge could only run on gas because would draw to many amps(?) off the battery. How long would the fridge run on the gas mode assuming the battery is fully charged?
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Old 08-12-2014, 09:28 PM   #5
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Normally push/pull type battery disconnect installed in RV's works as follow: push in battery disconnected, pulled out battery connected.
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Old 08-12-2014, 09:39 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMFLYFISH View Post
The battery disconnect was turned on (pushed in). My pup fridge could only run on gas because would draw to many amps(?) off the battery. How long would thefridge run on the gas mode assuming the battery is fully charged?
Our Roo disconnect is as Fonzie stated: push to disconnect. Is the power indicator on the fridge control panel lit? Does your light come on when opening the door? If not then you have no 12vdc. We have dry camped up to 4 days on the standard battery running the fridge on propane before we had to recharge. Of course we were very conservative with everything that draws off the battery. Also if there is a lot of air in the gas line it can take awhile for all that to get purged out before the burner will ignite. You will hear a snapping noise as it tries to ignite. I sometimes light a burner on the stove just to get all the air purged out.
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Old 08-13-2014, 08:47 AM   #7
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The only power the fridge should be drawing is for the gas solenoid to open and close it to cool the fridge. The only other possible power draw besides the light (which is only on when the door is open) is if you have a fan in the exhaust for the fridge. My 2015 23SS does not have a fan. You should be able to run off battery and gas for the fridge for at least 4 days without using anything else. And as others have mentioned the disconnect switch should be in the out (pulled) position for the battery to provide 12vdc. The fridge in your trailer is not like the pop up. Your pop up fridge could run off gas/elec or 12vdc (which drained the battery quickly). Your new trailer uses only minimal 12vdc for the fridge and the primary cooling is the gas. If in auto when plugged into power the fridge will switch from gas to electric or vice versa when you lose power.
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Old 08-13-2014, 09:21 AM   #8
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Did you purge the line? I had to purge the crap out of my line before my fridge would finally light on the propane.

Can you hear the ignitor? You should hear a click-click-click of the ignitor when it tries to light. Listen from the outside.

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Old 08-13-2014, 09:27 AM   #9
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did you purge the line? I had to purge the crap out of my line before my fridge would finally light on the propane.

Can you hear the ignitor? You should hear a click-click-click of the ignitor when it tries to light. Listen from the outside.

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Old 08-13-2014, 12:32 PM   #10
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First of all... THANKS!!! The fridge in my old pup either operated on gas or ac current. You did not have to worry about having a 12 volt supply when it was in gas mode. I was still under that mindset. Lesson Learned! I have been letting my 3 year old push every button that she wants to push under my supervision so she will not have any curiosities about what they do. The only switch I have not let her push is the battery disconnect. She may have snuck one past me or it could have been that way since it left the dealer, but the battery disconnect switch was pushed in (off position). The fridge when I first plug it did everything that it supposed to have done. I was surprised that the temp for the freezer had dropped well below freezing and fridge had dropped below 40 degrees in roughly 5 hours. I was thinking that it would take at least 8 hours to get to operating temperatures.
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