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11-07-2012, 08:14 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 15
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Furnace Blower and Heat
Hello All - great site! I've tapped into the knowledge base many times but have yet to post.
I'm a proud new owner of a 2013 Shamrock 23SS. Purchased a week ago Saturday. The PDI list that I pulled off the site was awesome. Highly recommend everyone one use it and make service tech go through every detail.
I blew out the super slide fuse first week while parked in front of the house. Do not hold slide button too long after slide reaches max extension. Found "hidden" green fuse box underneath trailer near the battery thanks to FR forums and it was easy fix.
Now having issue with furnace. Plugged into power from the house. Slept in trailer this past weekend (36 degrees) and was toasty. However, went to start it tonight and nothing. No blower fan...no heat.
Checked all fuses and all good. Ran gas to stove and working fine.
Any ideas?
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11-08-2012, 12:35 AM
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#2
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Site Team
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Goodyear, Arizona
Posts: 33,758
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not sure what the problem could be but one of your first mods, should be changing out the OEM analog thermostat, for a digital one.
Hunter and Honeywell ones can be bought for under $25.
perhaps you could post a pic of the thermostat.
also, there should be a troubleshooting guide, in the furnace's paperwork.
and Welcome to the exclusive 23SS Owner's Club!!!
__________________
Dan-Retired California Firefighter/EMT
Shawn-Musician/Entrepreneur/Wine Expert
and Zoe the Wonder Dog(R.I.P.) 
2016 PrimeTime TracerAIR 255, pushing a 2014 Ford F150 SCREW XTR 4x4 3.5 Ecoboost w/Max Tow Package
4pt Equal-i-zer WDH and 1828lbs of payload capacity
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11-08-2012, 05:53 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Clarksville Va.
Posts: 10,422
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richro
Hello All - great site! I've tapped into the knowledge base many times but have yet to post.
I'm a proud new owner of a 2013 Shamrock 23SS. Purchased a week ago Saturday. The PDI list that I pulled off the site was awesome. Highly recommend everyone one use it and make service tech go through every detail.
I blew out the super slide fuse first week while parked in front of the house. Do not hold slide button too long after slide reaches max extension. Found "hidden" green fuse box underneath trailer near the battery thanks to FR forums and it was easy fix.
Now having issue with furnace. Plugged into power from the house. Slept in trailer this past weekend (36 degrees) and was toasty. However, went to start it tonight and nothing. No blower fan...no heat.
Checked all fuses and all good. Ran gas to stove and working fine.
Any ideas?
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I'm not sure what FAU your unit comes with? The Fan on a suburban must start first which causes the air to blow over a sail switch which after proven will ignite the burner. Remember that the blower is 12v. Make sure your battery is fully charged. Your stat will lock out after 3 times to light and you will not get the blower on.(safety issue) RESET the the stat by turning it off and then back on. If your blower still will not start it will be on the electrical side. Also check at the furnace and see if any limits have been tripped. I think that you will see at the furnace, more then likely will have a black plastic cover over them with 2 dimples that you can push. Make sure your converter is working and that your disconnect switch to your battery is on. This is just a guess without knowing what was installed.A furnace blower can run down your battery faster then you think, Check the voltage at the batterys... 
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11-08-2012, 06:22 AM
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#4
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Southeast Wisconsin
Posts: 6,949
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Plenty of good advice above. We have some additional resources that go beyond the manual in our Fles section (green menu bar at the top).
I would also start with the battery and go from there. Sometimes, not always, but sometimes its the simplest things.
Congrats on your new camper.
__________________
Scott
DW, 3 Kids and our Goldens
2012 Shamrock 233S
2008 Toyota Sequoia 5.7L 4WD
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11-08-2012, 06:15 PM
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#5
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 15
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Appreciate the input and still working to resolve issue.
Will attach pics of theromstat.
Furnace is Suburban NT20S.
Battery fully charged and I'm hooked up to electric from the house.
Read through Furnace User manual. No trouble shooting ideas.
Getting to the furnace to see if any limits have been checked is easier said then done. If that truly is the issue I'll be heading to the dealer.
It has to be electrical. I'm able to run AC fan. Switched out the 2amp fuse in the thermostat though original one looked fine but still nothing.
Blower just will not kick on to blow air over the sail switch.
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11-08-2012, 06:45 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Clarksville Va.
Posts: 10,422
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richro
Appreciate the input and still working to resolve issue.
Will attach pics of theromstat.
Furnace is Suburban NT20S.
Battery fully charged and I'm hooked up to electric from the house.
Read through Furnace User manual. No trouble shooting ideas.
Getting to the furnace to see if any limits have been checked is easier said then done. If that truly is the issue I'll be heading to the dealer.
It has to be electrical. I'm able to run AC fan. Switched out the 2amp fuse in the thermostat though original one looked fine but still nothing.
Blower just will not kick on to blow air over the sail switch.
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Okay, I see your subbase, If you can check the wiring diagram and if you are conformable doing that , then jump out the red and white wires at the stat . There is also a fuse on the subbase you said you checked, check that to make sure it is not blown with a continuity meter. It might look good but who knows, also you should get 12v on each side of the fuse. I could be wrong but all you will do is blow the fuse. If your blower starts when you jumper it, then you have a bad stat.
If blower still will start take it to the dealer. I hope this helps you, if not forget my name and anything i have said.... 
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11-08-2012, 07:31 PM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Saint John, N.B. Canada
Posts: 69
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I assume the fan is switched to "Auto" and the other switch is on "heat"? 
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11-08-2012, 08:38 PM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 15
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gljurczyk...12v on each side of fuse per voltmeter. Will you please give more details on how to "jump out the red and white wires at the stat"? Is "continuity meter" same as ohmmeter? This is probably over my head.
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11-08-2012, 09:10 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,570
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Richro
gljurczyk...12v on each side of fuse per voltmeter. Will you please give more details on how to "jump out the red and white wires at the stat"? Is "continuity meter" same as ohmmeter? This is probably over my head.
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Thats two separate steps. Remove fuse from clips, mwasure with your ohmmeter. Should read 0 on any scale. If reads infinity its no good.. Other step will bypass the thermo and if blowers trys or does start, its a thermostat thats bad. Using a stiff of insulated wire, similar size in the thermo now can be used to temp connect the two terminals.
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11-10-2012, 08:04 PM
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#10
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 15
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Made my way to dealer this morning. Turns out blower defective. Complete furnance unit replaced and I'm camping tonight with heat  .
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11-10-2012, 09:37 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,570
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richro
Made my way to dealer this morning. Turns out blower defective. Complete furnance unit replaced and I'm camping tonight with heat . |
Sounds great, thats its called troubeshooting, lots of targets!
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