Furnace Ducting / Roof or Floor

[Pkostiw]

Morning, Does anyone know if the fiurnace on a 2014 233s is to be ducted from the roof? We picked ours up yesterday and tried it out last night. The temp went down to 6 C and if it wasn't for the heated mattress it would have been misserable. I can only see 2 floor vents, one at the entrance door and one in the bathroom under the shower. I find it hard to believe that they are the only ones or am I missing something? Thanks

[youroo]

Heat at floor. Some A/C Mfg. offer a (Heat strip) add on for A/C units. Then you would have Roof Heat. Youroo!!

[Ford Idaho]

Are those heat/AC vents on each side of the vent.

Is the thermostat set right, gas bottles full and turned on.

[KMP44]

Originally Posted by Pkostiw

I can only see 2 floor vents, one at the entrance door and one in the bathroom under the shower. I find it hard to believe that they are the only ones or am I missing something? Thanks

Our 23IKSS only has 2 vents for heat - so it may be the same setup in your tt. Does seem like a pretty cheap way to do it. Our furnace is in the very back with one vent there and the other in bathroom, which is also in the back. So it makes for rather un-even heating, but in the couple times we have needed it, the camper has stayed pretty warm. Would have been nice if they spread the heat out a little though...

[Pkostiw]

Morning, Yes it would have been nice to maybe to have few more vents. With the bathroom door closed, all we have is is one 4" vent at the door to heat the trailer. If they would have at least had the furnace open to push air into the center of the trailer it would have been better. The thermosat has options for high and low fan speed,but running last night it had only one speed.

[garbonz]

Originally Posted by Pkostiw

Morning, Yes it would have been nice to maybe to have few more vents. With the bathroom door closed, all we have is is one 4" vent at the door to heat the trailer. If they would have at least had the furnace open to push air into the center of the trailer it would have been better. The thermosat has options for high and low fan speed,but running last night it had only one speed.

Might try a small 12 volt fan to circulate that heat toward the front. If you put it as high as possible, it might help. Might need a 12 volt outlet to make this option work. It won't use much juice.

If you are plugged in, you may also want a small 5000BTU space heater. Lots of folks do that, including me

[KMP44]

Originally Posted by Pkostiw

Morning, Yes it would have been nice to maybe to have few more vents. With the bathroom door closed, all we have is is one 4" vent at the door to heat the trailer. If they would have at least had the furnace open to push air into the center of the trailer it would have been better. The thermosat has options for high and low fan speed,but running last night it had only one speed.

But the bathroom sure stays toasty with half the heat going into that little space!! We left the bathroom door open to get better air flow. The bunk end light/fan units also help keep things circulating.

I really like the ducted AC. Would be nice if the heat had a similar setp, but to have a true ducted heat system, they would have to run something under the floor like they do in a lot of the larger tt's.

[urocav2001]

We just picked up a little buddy 5k to 9k but indoor safe this thing hears the camper by itself. We do use the heater in our shamrock but does seem to turn on more than off :/

[bikendan]

the furnace is floor only. the high/low fan setting is for ONLY for the a/c, not the furnace. furnace fan has only one speed.

heat does NOT go through any of the ceiling vents, only floor vents.

a heat strip will only work for certain a/c units.

[urocav2001]

Too bad you couldn't run the fan and heat at the same time. My father in law has a tracer that has heat ducts on the floor and when you turn the heat on the fan kicks on up top and disperses the heat through the ceiling vents

[Archicamper]

All I can say is the heater is way better than my popup was where the heat blew directly out of the furnace located in a cabinet! This is a big step up from our popup but we still like to sleep under canvas so I am a little more forgiving about the creature comforts.

[KMP44]

Originally Posted by Archicamper

All I can say is the heater is way better than my popup was where the heat blew directly out of the furnace located in a cabinet!

X2 !!! Plus it was loud enough to wake the neighbors.

[Pkostiw]

Yes you are right,we still feel like we are in a but not on the ground. The unit as whole makes up for the need to get a space heater of some sort

[Pkostiw]

so much for spell check, there should have been in a tent on the first line

[Shado]

Originally Posted by garbonz

If you are plugged in, you may also want a small 5000BTU space heater. Lots of folks do that, including me

Can you let me know what heater this would be??? Our lil space heater is horrible. Keeps the kids warm at the back but we get a lil chilly up front

[Buckeyecmpr]

A few things I have found with heating a 233s over the past few years...btw we have a 2011 with 2013 bunks. There is a lot of space to heat and it's no surprise that the outer edges of the bunks are the coldest I usually supplement the furnace with an adjustable electric space heater plugged into the outlet next to the fridge by the side bunk, 750/1500w settings adjustable throughout. Usually that is fine, but with temps in the low 40s and down into the 30s, the furnace runs all night long. Just plan on filling propane tanks every year. One issue is the outlets, though. At least in mine, all the outlets run off one breaker. That means 3 heated bunks, tv, clock, charging phones, etc, etc. We could only run the heater on the 750w setting before tripping the camper breaker. I had FR add a single outlet and 20amp breaker while at the rally (thanks guys) right next to the breaker panel...probably a foot of wire. Two weeks ago temps hit the mid to low 40s...I used two space heaters. One on the new outlet, one on the old, facing in opposite directions. I did not need the furnace and did not trip any breakers or have problems at the post. My shore power cable was not heating up either. Everyone stayed toasty warm. So far I am very pleased with the first test. I'll be out in two weeks and I'm sure I'll give it another go. Sorry this was so long...just wanted to be detailed

[PineForestCamper]

I was out dry camping this past weekend and I had overnight low temps of 39 and 32. The 39 night we kept the temp around 60 in the center of our 233s. The bunk ends were naturally cooler with the rear bunk being the coldest. We heated with furnace only and were using popup gizmos (no condensation). The 32 night I kicked the furnace up slightly as it was cooler on the ends and that meant the furnace ran longer.

We will be heading out in mid October and may or may not camp with electricity. I am installing another circuit and receptacle so I too can run two electric space heaters just like buckeye if we choose to dry camp. Why are all of those outlets on just one circuit?! Our coleman pup had outlets on two circuits. If we dry camp I will be bringing our Mr Heater, cracking the roof vents open, and keeping the furnace on and ready in case its needed.

I am a little surprised at the placement of the heating vents too. Seems like they could have have had one more vent near the rear of the camper. I came across a post from someone here that said they talked to Forest River about it and FR sent ducting and supplies to add another vent (at no cost). I've thought about doing that but have been reluctant as I remember camping in Yellowstone (2010) in July in our pup with no heat and having snow/frost three nights there and we did just fine with our 0 rated sleeping bags (survival not comfort rating). I dont wanna get too soft.

A picture of our Mr Heater and our two electric space heaters if we have electric (need to add another outlet and circuit).