Got a leak!

Finster · 07-11-2016, 07:18 AM

I picked up our new 2017 Shamrock 233S mid may, and we took it on a trip to North Dakota within a week of delivery. Everything went well. After that trip, it sat for about a month in storage. We pulled it out again for a weekend at Morwood campground, north of Independence just this last week. It sits outside at the storage facility, and I have checked on it a few times after rains just to check for leaks. I did not find any during those checks but I did not set it up either, as there is not enough room in my stall. We had it home for a couple of days while we packed, but again did not set up the bunks, only ran the slide out to make maneuvering through the camper a bit easier.

We left Friday for Morwood, and set up that evening. When we pulled the bunks out, we found water trapped in the canvas. A couple of quarts in each the front and side bunks. There was over a gallon of water pooled in the rear bunk. It doesn't appear that any of it made it inside. During my checks in the storage facility I found no signs of leaks. The mattresses were always dry. After setting up, I checked the canvas. There is some staining from the water pooling but it appeared to clean up well, not leaving anything permanently. I looked over the seals for the bunk doors and found them pulling away from the camper near the top corners, leaving a gap between the top and side seals. I'm guessing this is where the water is entering. It looks like an easy enough fix. Does anyone know what the factory uses for adhesive when applying the seals? Or would it be recommended that I just take it back to the dealership and have them deal with it? Im sure this would be covered by the warranty but the dealer we bought if from is a couple of hours away. I plan to set it up tonight in my driveway regardless to dry everything out as we got more rain last night after we left.

Purdyquibb · 07-11-2016, 07:43 AM

Finster,
This is my opinion on things that go wrong. If it is in your wheelhouse of something you can do, DO it yourself. No disrespect to any dealerships out there but they do this all day and this is your baby, To them is their job. Nobody will fix your camper like you will. When we bought ours last year, like you, We bought a couple hours from the house. I heard about this happening quite frequently. I went to my local hardware store and asked if they had any RV silicon, They did so I went around everything I could find, Top to bottom, Then I went around again. I was amazed at what a poor caulk job that was done from the factory and was actually surprised I didn't also have a leak. It was truly pathetic the way my trailer was "sealed". Not saying yours is the same but the fact they go down an assembly line makes me think we all may be in the same boat. My opinion, If you can do it, Do it yourself You will much, Much happier in the end.

Finster · 07-11-2016, 11:51 AM

I have no problems doing the repair myself. If there were permanent damage or staining to the bunk ends or canvas I would take it in for sure. But the water seemed to be contained by the folded canvas inside the bunk, and the canvas is cleaning up nicely. I just have no idea what to use. I know silicon is a no-no. Ive heard a lot of recommendations for Dicor sealants but I don't know if this will work for the seals. Or if I should just use some kind of weather-stripping adhesive.

Purdyquibb · 07-11-2016, 12:07 PM

Hopefully the RV silicon I purchased was the right stuff then, Now I'm worried, lol. I better look at the tube and see what I put on. I hadn't heard your not suppose to use silicon so hopefully I didn't and just have my terms screwed up. I know it said made specifically for Rv's?

Finster · 07-11-2016, 12:29 PM

If it was for rv's then It might be fine. From my understanding of it is a silicone seal won't last long and it's a major PIA to clean it off. And nothing will stick to it so it all has to be removed when it does fail and you have to redo it. The factory uses butyl tape for the most part but I have no idea what they use on the bunk seals.

Purdyquibb · 07-11-2016, 01:04 PM

Whatever they use must be expensive because they didn't use much, lol

Finster · 07-12-2016, 09:47 AM

I unfolded the bunks in the driveway to finish cleaning the canvas up and let them dry out. After hosing them down I checked for water inside and found none. It also rained last night, with the canvas still out. This is the firt time they've been out in the rain, so I checked for water this morning before I left for work and found none. So at least I know the canvas is water tight. Im still not sure what to do about the bunk seals though. Im going to pick up some automotive weather stripping adhesive and give that a try. Hopefully I can seal it up good enough to make it through the rest of the season and I'll take it back to the dealership in the fall to have the seals looked at. Some appear that they were cut too short. This is the rear bunk that had the most water. There is a good 1/2" gap between the seals with no overlap. A couple of the other corners in the other bunks don't look any better.

Mr Havercamp · 07-12-2016, 11:58 AM

The seal comes with factory applied 3m weatherstripping tape. Do not use the 3m weather strip adhesive in tubes, either yellow or the super strength black. You'll be sorry if you ever need to remove it.

I am not near our 2017 23WS to take a look but from memory it looks like they installed your seals incorrectly. I believe the seal across the top is supposed to come over top of the vertical seals and end just a little bit past the outside edge. The outer edges of the seal is made like a gutter and the water is supposed to run to the end of the top one and then down the vertical fiberglass face at the sides. On yours the water will run out the end of that top seal and right inside the door through that gap. Our 23WS was built mid April and picked up the end of April and the only water I have found in ours has been a drop or two. Since the outside was wet when I found it I believe it may have dripped in when I opened the door.

That seal would be super easy to change. More work cleaning the old 3m off than anything and getting access to the top center. A couple step ladders and a plank would work. I would email one of the warranty reps at Rockwood and send that picture. They might send you the new seals.

I had some commercial brake metal drip edge bent up, and I Installed it above the doors with 3m and caulk. The water drips onto the door face and never hits the seal. It also serves as a channel to clamp the top of our gizmos to.

Finster · 07-12-2016, 01:23 PM

Well, we got another trip planned for the 22nd, and I have no doubt that if I take it in to be repaired it wont be ready in time. So I sent a carefully worded email to the service rep at forest river, along with that picture. I'll just have to wait and see what he says.

Mr Havercamp · 07-12-2016, 01:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Finster

Well, we got another trip planned for the 22nd, and I have no doubt that if I take it in to be repaired it wont be ready in time. So I sent a carefully worded email to the service rep at forest river, along with that picture. I'll just have to wait and see what he says.

I have my money on they help you out. On our first trip with the Roo Memorial weekend and the week following the microwave went up in smoke, and later on the fridge crapped an AC heating element. Finished the week running the fridge on gas. When we got home I pulled the microwave just to check for an internal fuse but since it smelled like a Lionel train I knew it was toast. I also had ordered a replacement element for the fridge. I contacted Rockwood and was told to take the microwave to a Forest River dealer, and have them verify it was DOA, and also to have them submit the receipt for the element purchase. It took about 2 weeks for the new microwave to be delivered to my house and about a month for the check for the element to arrive.

bareftn · 07-13-2016, 04:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr Havercamp

I have my money on they help you out. On our first trip with the Roo Memorial weekend and the week following the microwave went up in smoke, and later on the fridge crapped an AC heating element. Finished the week running the fridge on gas. When we got home I pulled the microwave just to check for an internal fuse but since it smelled like a Lionel train I knew it was toast. I also had ordered a replacement element for the fridge. I contacted Rockwood and was told to take the microwave to a Forest River dealer, and have them verify it was DOA, and also to have them submit the receipt for the element purchase. It took about 2 weeks for the new microwave to be delivered to my house and about a month for the check for the element to arrive.

How you get them to respond when I had a problem I sent several email and when I roo was at the dealer for the repair nothing was done for over a month so the dealer went and fixed it better with out the factory parts. Please post the email address's for the roos reps

Mr Havercamp · 07-13-2016, 06:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bareftn

How you get them to respond when I had a problem I sent several email and when I roo was at the dealer for the repair nothing was done for over a month so the dealer went and fixed it better with out the factory parts. Please post the email address's for the roos reps

All I have ever done is to go to the Rockwood Roo website and use the fill in form on the "contact us" feature. I always received a response usually the next business day. Usually it was Jacob Carter who was most helpful. Using the email addresses they had listed seemed to never get a response.

I went there this morning before I replied to this post, and there seems to have been some kind on shakeup at Rockwood in the last few weeks/days. They always listed 4 service reps with email addresses under the service area of the contact us tab. Now they only list one, Chuck Pederson.

I can find Jacob Carter listed as the service rep now for Flagstaff but can not find the other two reps listed anywhere and I had talked to both of them the past on the phone, both seemed to be good people, Roger Bieler and Fred Yoder. It now looks like Rockwood and Flagstaff only have two service reps when prior and up to a few weeks ago had 4. This can't be good.

Finster · 07-13-2016, 07:04 AM

Jacob Carter is who I sent my email to. He is listed as the flagstaff rep, as I have a Shamrock. I did not use the fill in form on the contact us page though, because there was no way to attach photos. I instead sent an email to the address listed. Hopefully I get a response today.

bareftn · 07-14-2016, 06:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr Havercamp

All I have ever done is to go to the Rockwood Roo website and use the fill in form on the "contact us" feature. I always received a response usually the next business day. Usually it was Jacob Carter who was most helpful. Using the email addresses they had listed seemed to never get a response.

I went there this morning before I replied to this post, and there seems to have been some kind on shakeup at Rockwood in the last few weeks/days. They always listed 4 service reps with email addresses under the service area of the contact us tab. Now they only list one, Chuck Pederson.

I can find Jacob Carter listed as the service rep now for Flagstaff but can not find the other two reps listed anywhere and I had talked to both of them the past on the phone, both seemed to be good people, Roger Bieler and Fred Yoder. It now looks like Rockwood and Flagstaff only have two service reps when prior and up to a few weeks ago had 4. This can't be good.

I have never ever got any response from them for my problems

Finster · 07-15-2016, 10:39 PM

I never got a reply from the email I sent earlier in the week so I gave him a call the other day. Had to leave a message and he got back to me today. He got my email, just hadn't replied to it yet. He just asked for my Vin and shipping address and he'll be sending all new seals out to me shortly.

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