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Old 07-05-2015, 08:22 AM   #1
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Heads up on interior modifications

This applies specifically to the Roo 19 but I am sure this could come up with other models as well.

Yesterday I finally go around to installing coat hooks on the outside of the bathroom wall at the entry to the trailer. I needed to drill a couple of holes for toggle blots as there is only one stud in this wall and the material is very thin. I located where the holes need to be measuring the location (I can't use a level because of the slope of my driveway, but this is another lesson learned) and drilled the first hole only to find to my surprise the toilet vent stack is located in this wall! By some miracle I didn't drill through the pipe.

Just be forewarned that even though the walls are thin in the trailer that doesn't mean that there are thing buried in the wall hidden from sight!
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Old 07-05-2015, 08:29 AM   #2
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This applies to (All) units! Floors also! Youroo!!
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Old 07-05-2015, 08:33 AM   #3
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Yep there's stuff in them there walls!!!
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Old 07-05-2015, 08:57 AM   #4
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"Archicamper".....

An easy way to install a row of coat hooks but there are lacking studs or proper backing would be....

1) Place a strip of 'low tack masking tape' horizontally at the height of hooks.
2) locate the stud(s) (with a stud finder) and make a mark on each side of it on the tape.
3) depending on your space make or purchase a 'coat hook board' see picture*below...it would be best to pick or make a reasonably wide board 3 to 4 inches for mounting.
4) by drilling 2 pilot holes (vertically) in the Hook board spaced just down from the top and up from the bottom "at the location of the stud" for a #8 wood screw. ..length depends on thickness of hook board and allow about 5/8 " to 3/4" to penetrate into stud. **Note the stud may be Aluminum ..so a self tapping metal screw would be advised here.

I would advise not relying on the paneling to screw into for support...
- no strength and possible hidden wires or?

Even if the mounting screw location is off center the hook board will still hold quite a bit of weight...if securely attached.
You may want to counter sink and plug the board.

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Old 07-05-2015, 11:46 AM   #5
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Good reply islander, gotta get into those studs one way it another.
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Old 07-05-2015, 12:18 PM   #6
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Whenever I've needed to attach something to a surface that is questionable as far as weight bearing capacity is concerned there are two approaches I use. (and I say this as a retired finish carpenter/cabinet maker with over 35 years experience)

1. if the weight will not be excessive, use double sticky tape. Office Depot sells one that has a foam type center that is about 1/16". Has a red cellophane type cover that is peeled off. A bit expensive but it holds like concrete. I have used it on commercial jobs to attach plastic wheelchair accessible (and other) signs to glass storefronts. After 24 hours it takes a chisel to remove. If you can add a screw or two to a stud it makes it even better. There is also a paper thin double-sided tape I get from a professional sign making supply store. I have tested it by sticking two pieces of wood together, waiting overnight, then trying to pull them apart. The tape did not give ... the wood splintered first.

2. epoxy glue. When weight bearing is more of a concern I always turn to epoxy. I have used it more times than I can count and have never been called back because of a failure of the bond. The only problem with epoxy is that it can be brittle, so it may not be good for high vibration situations. Again, if you can add in a few screws/nails here and there where possible you shouldn't have any worries.
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Old 07-05-2015, 12:28 PM   #7
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I usually just use the 3m stick up hooks to avoid drilling holes. That said, DH Hungary flat screen on the bedroom walls and went through the studs and out the other side ofc the fiver because he used too long of a screw. We fixed it but lesson learned to double check the size of screw you are using.
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Old 07-05-2015, 12:35 PM   #8
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I have found that COMMAND HOOKS are your friend when it comes to campers. No holes to drill and no problems on what is inside the walls. Then as time down the road if you change your mind you just remove the hooks and place in another location if you want.
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Old 07-05-2015, 01:04 PM   #9
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I have had lamination? separation on command hooks. To much on one hook for to long? Yea but still...
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Old 07-05-2015, 01:08 PM   #10
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mods in/on walls

My dad had an antique aircraft tool that was used to place fasteners on sheet metal. I did some research and the fasteners are called jack-nuts.
You drill a 1/2" hole just through the surface, place the jack nut of a puller tool, (think like a pop-rivet gun pulling a stud), insert the jack-nut in the hole and close up the puller tool. The jack-nut squashes to leave a almost flush threaded insert, 10/32 female thread that squeezes the skin to make a solid connection. Covers much more area than a screw, doesn't go as deep, and rugged in the 1/8" or 3/32" plywood wall surface.

By the way, walk gently on the ribs or rafters of your roof. Everywhere else is only 3/16" thick.
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Old 07-05-2015, 01:46 PM   #11
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Where do you purchase Command Hooks?
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Old 07-05-2015, 02:07 PM   #12
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Where do you purchase Command Hooks?
Walmart, Lowes/HD and about any drugstore.
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Old 07-05-2015, 03:28 PM   #13
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Those 3M Command Hooks are my be friend when it comes to hanging anything in the trailer. I especially like the Velcro ones for my photos. I print the pictures of wildlife, etc. and then stick them to a thin, sticky board. No frames needed and they are easy to make and stay level.


I even used 4 of them to apply the Plexiglass on the bathroom cabinet wall that faces the shower.
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Old 07-05-2015, 03:41 PM   #14
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We had a bunch of Command hooks and strips in our old camper and they had all been in use for quite a while. We were kind of worried about removing them when it came time to trade, but none left any marks on the walls.
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Old 07-05-2015, 07:49 PM   #15
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All of this begs the question,"Why do the manufacturers not install more hooks and towel bars when they design these units?" It is not rocket science to spend a couple of minutes looking at a bathroom, kitchen or bedroom to see that hooks are an essential item that customers will need, unless the designers never used a camper or asked a focus group of experienced campers what they would suggest.
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Old 07-06-2015, 05:36 AM   #16
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Definitely it's command hooks without question.
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Old 07-06-2015, 06:21 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magpi26 View Post
All of this begs the question,"Why do the manufacturers not install more hooks and towel bars when they design these units?" It is not rocket science to spend a couple of minutes looking at a bathroom, kitchen or bedroom to see that hooks are an essential item that customers will need, unless the designers never used a camper or asked a focus group of experienced campers what they would suggest.
Someone would need to take that two minutes from some other job they were doing.

And odds are if they did they WOULD have hit a vent stack or wire and it would be par for the course that no end user would like where they were hung.
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Old 07-06-2015, 06:46 AM   #18
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Think that is the real answer. We all would want the hooks and towel racks in different places, so it would be a no win for the manufacturer. Easiest solution to not put them anywhere.

But it sure would be nice to get a schematic of what's behind the wallboard.
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Old 07-06-2015, 07:27 AM   #19
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If you are going to use Jack Nuts,,, plan on NEVER removing them !!!
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Old 07-06-2015, 07:30 AM   #20
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Where do you purchase Command Hooks?
Our Menards has a great display,,, all styles & finishes !!!
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