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Old 01-05-2014, 03:02 PM   #11
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Had that problem with a previous short bed truck. I bought a piece of 1/2 plywood cut to sit on the bed floor but long enough to extend flush to the end of the bumper. I filled the gap between the top of the bumper and the bottom of the plywood with 2x4's cut to fit. The end result is a floor that extends to the end of bumper which provides a stable base for the rear tires of the golfcart. Strapped the golf cart down and left the tailgate home...
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Old 01-05-2014, 03:05 PM   #12
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The rear tires of the golf cart sit on the opening between the bed of the truck and the tailgate. I wouldn't feel comfortable taking the tailgate off.
Maybe a short extension for the bed of the truck that could be fastened down and made removable or using the top of the bumper for some support. That said I saw a guy with a camper that goes in the box of a pickup using a hitch extender pulling an enclosed race car trailer. I'd think there would be a good amount of force added to the hitch of the truck.
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Old 01-05-2014, 03:09 PM   #13
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I really appreciate all the feed back. It sounds like I need to go back to the drawing board, but if anyone has ideas please pass them along. Thanks!

A full size 8' pickup bed will hold the golf cart with the tailgate up. Have you looked at other trucks. If you extend that hitch out 18" it will definitely change the towing characteristics and not for the better.
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Old 01-05-2014, 03:19 PM   #14
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A full size 8' pickup bed will hold the golf cart with the tailgate up. Have you looked at other trucks.
It should fit in a regular shortbox pickup. We hauled one in a 2000 Dodge shortbox with a race trailer behind. This was with the tailgate removed but the wheels all sat on the floor of the bed. This cart also had a backseat with a step that stuck out. His pickup must have one of the really short beds?
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Old 01-05-2014, 03:26 PM   #15
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Take three sheets of 3/4" plywood and after tracing a template from a large piece of cardboard (i.e refrig box, etc) build a double ply, or 1 1/2" thick floor bed liner catching the cut outs for the wheel wells and the corner returns where the tailgate fits. That way you have a bedliner that can't slide out. Make the length long enough to fit the wheelbase of your cart with a little extra to give you comfort. You will have to position the top ply pieces so you don't have any common seams, especially near the overhang area. Use liquid nails and a box of 1/3/8" drywall screws to bond the two sheet layers together. You can leave the center of the top layer one ply thick, up near the bulkhead to free up enough plywood to make the area under the wheels and overhang two ply for strength. Try a visit to a local funiture shop or appliance store for your cardboard.
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Old 01-05-2014, 04:34 PM   #16
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from what i've read, hitch extensions are not to be used with WDH"s, since it will lower the weight capacity of the receiver and the WDH.
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Old 01-05-2014, 06:43 PM   #17
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I done this with my last setup. I had an 08 Chevy 2500HD with the 6'6" bed. The golf cart rear wheels would be halfway on the truck bed, and the footpan for the rear seat would extend out over my propane tanks. I'd use 3 ratchet straps to hold the cart tight to the front of the truck bed, and never had an issue. I did have to go with a longer shank, but didn't experience any difference going down the road. The link in my sig should have pics.

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Old 01-05-2014, 09:11 PM   #18
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This was all very helpful. Thanks Again!!
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Old 01-09-2014, 07:29 AM   #19
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Before you do any of that, take the Tundra to a local CAT scale with the golf cart loaded but no trailer and see how much payload capacity you'll have left. You have a relatively light trailer but having the golf cart in the bed of the Tundra may have you close to if not over max. payload before hitching up the trailer.
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Old 01-09-2014, 07:51 AM   #20
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Good idea. Thanks!
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