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Old 06-08-2014, 03:50 PM   #21
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Thanks for the pic Dave ..... I'm sure Reese would love to see that!!
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Old 06-08-2014, 06:04 PM   #22
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There's a lot of Chinese counterfeit stuff on the market these days. The airline and nuclear power industry buyers are always on the watch for it. The Chinese are better at forgery and deception than at manufacturing.
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Old 06-09-2014, 04:18 PM   #23
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Don't go too nutso looking for the hardest, strongest pin you can find.

As a long habit beaten into my by years of crewing and racing on dirt track cars, I NEVER NEVER NEVER use Grade 8 bolts on anything subjected to shear. Seat mounts, suspension points, whatever. A harder bolt will snap when a softer (grade 5) will yeild, but still hold together. On purely tension applications (head bolts, rod ends, etc) I use Grade 8.

I say this because... Look at the pin in Dave's picture. Obviously it bent, but it did not fail. A harder pin may not have bent at all, but if it exceeds it yield point, it will snap the hell off. I'd rather have my hitch connected by a bent pin than a sheared off one.

Tim
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Old 06-09-2014, 04:52 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Cowracer View Post
Don't go too nutso looking for the hardest, strongest pin you can find.

As a long habit beaten into my by years of crewing and racing on dirt track cars, I NEVER NEVER NEVER use Grade 8 bolts on anything subjected to shear. Seat mounts, suspension points, whatever. A harder bolt will snap when a softer (grade 5) will yeild, but still hold together. On purely tension applications (head bolts, rod ends, etc) I use Grade 8.

I say this because... Look at the pin in Dave's picture. Obviously it bent, but it did not fail. A harder pin may not have bent at all, but if it exceeds it yield point, it will snap the hell off. I'd rather have my hitch connected by a bent pin than a sheared off one.

Tim
Well, due to the fact that we had an undying supply of gr 8 bolts/nuts/hardened washers, every bolt on our race cars were gr 8. Never had one break. Coil over shocks were mounted with them, seat, seat belts, shoulder harness, there were no bolts1/4" or larger were not gr 8. Even used a 5/8 gr 8 bolt/castellated nut for the hitch pin. Had to use a carbide bit to drill it for the cotter pin.
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Old 06-09-2014, 05:26 PM   #25
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Also to add, am I correct in stating that the tongue weight of the trailer also wedges the hitch in the receiver, and that in turn offers relief on the pin? Again, don't know if this is true, but would make sense.
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Old 06-09-2014, 06:01 PM   #26
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Also to add, am I correct in stating that the tongue weight of the trailer also wedges the hitch in the receiver, and that in turn offers relief on the pin? Again, don't know if this is true, but would make sense.
If you notice when you tighten or latch the torsion bars, the hitch head actually goes up, forcing the end of the 2"sq bar down in the front which is how the total hitch configuration puts downward load on the front of the tv.
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