Originally Posted by pjnlorrie
Turbs did a nice install using male/female plug ends so he could easily remove the EMS from the circuit if it ever failed. Ours has saved our equipment more than a few times.
Many generators, like our Honda, use a floating ground which the Progressive unit (Maybe other brands) see as an open ground and will not engage. Progressive instructions show how to install an included jumper wire to circumvent this issue. On one of my RVs I installed a switch to the jumper location and on another I simply use a Ground-Neutral Bond plug-Generator Ground-Neutral Bonding | No~Shock~Zone
I'm Mike Sokol from the No~Shock~Zone. Thanks for posting my article about generator Neutral-Ground bonding here. I'm currently editing a video about how to easily determine if your generator has a floating or bonded neutral. I'll post the link here once it's ready for publication.
In the meantime, I have several of the HW Progressive Industries Surge Protectors which I prefer simply because I can test and replace any components if I blow something up during my No~Shock~Zone experiments. I've been trying really hard to destroy one, but haven't been successful yet. For example, they've been designed and tested up to 480 volts, so my 240-volt over-voltage tests just make them shut off. But they come back on after reducing the voltage back to normal levels.
I think that everyone with a 30-amp shore power plug needs over-voltage protection since lots of homeowners and electricians accidentally mis-wire TT-30 receptacles with 240 volts instead of 120 volts becuase it looks like a dryer plug. See my article on that topic at: Mis-wiring a 120-volt RV outlet with 240-volts | No~Shock~Zone
FYI: I'm currently building a Tesla coil for lightning strike experiments on electrical gear (no kidding) which should be a lot of fun. Yes, I'll take videos.