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Old 08-18-2015, 10:05 PM   #11
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Display mounted on the front of the cabinet:

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Old 08-18-2015, 11:00 PM   #12
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Thank you for all the great advice. This was my first inquiry/post on this forum as a first time owner of a camper. The quick responses with valuable information has been great!

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Old 08-19-2015, 03:35 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by pjnlorrie View Post
Turbs did a nice install using male/female plug ends so he could easily remove the EMS from the circuit if it ever failed. Ours has saved our equipment more than a few times.
Many generators, like our Honda, use a floating ground which the Progressive unit (Maybe other brands) see as an open ground and will not engage. Progressive instructions show how to install an included jumper wire to circumvent this issue. On one of my RVs I installed a switch to the jumper location and on another I simply use a Ground-Neutral Bond plug-Generator Ground-Neutral Bonding | No~Shock~Zone
I'm Mike Sokol from the No~Shock~Zone. Thanks for posting my article about generator Neutral-Ground bonding here. I'm currently editing a video about how to easily determine if your generator has a floating or bonded neutral. I'll post the link here once it's ready for publication.

In the meantime, I have several of the HW Progressive Industries Surge Protectors which I prefer simply because I can test and replace any components if I blow something up during my No~Shock~Zone experiments. I've been trying really hard to destroy one, but haven't been successful yet. For example, they've been designed and tested up to 480 volts, so my 240-volt over-voltage tests just make them shut off. But they come back on after reducing the voltage back to normal levels.

I think that everyone with a 30-amp shore power plug needs over-voltage protection since lots of homeowners and electricians accidentally mis-wire TT-30 receptacles with 240 volts instead of 120 volts becuase it looks like a dryer plug. See my article on that topic at: Mis-wiring a 120-volt RV outlet with 240-volts | No~Shock~Zone.

FYI: I'm currently building a Tesla coil for lightning strike experiments on electrical gear (no kidding) which should be a lot of fun. Yes, I'll take videos.

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Old 08-19-2015, 04:04 PM   #14
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the trickiest part of the install that I found with this unit placing the unit itself. I found room behind the electrical service panel. Also, I placed the hole for the RJ11 connector to the remote behind the remote so that it covered the hole.
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Old 08-19-2015, 05:28 PM   #15
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I started out with an external unit and decided to mount in inside my Roo. I put it under the sink like others have done. I got male and female plugs, cut the line and plugged in the unit. This location has the added advantage that after removing the partitions under the sink I have more storage and can open the cabinet and see the surge protector.
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Old 08-19-2015, 05:53 PM   #16
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Bought this the day we picked up the lite, it has served well 60-90 second delay during pretest.

No wiring needed.

Chain and padlock to keep folks on the up and up.
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Old 08-19-2015, 11:08 PM   #17
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I have the Progressive hardwired (30 amp) unit. The only sound I have heard is the contactor pulling in after the power check. The open ground indicated with some external generators can be bypassed by turning the unit off with the switch on the display (all power sensing faults are then ignored).
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Old 08-28-2015, 01:07 AM   #18
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Decided on the hard wired PI 30 amp surge protector. Just installed it nearly identical to Turbs installation behind the inverter using 30 amp twist plugs. I like the idea of being able to bypass the surge protector if it ever fails and take it with me if/when I ever sell my Roo 19. Installation wasn't difficult. I ended up running the display underneath the sink and out of sight so the kiddos can't mess with it. I will be interested to see how well it does when running power from an external generator. Thanks for all the installation advice from everyone. I would not have thought to use 30 amp plugs to allow me the ability to bypass the surge protector had I not gotten advice from this forum. Fly Navy!!!
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Old 08-28-2015, 06:49 AM   #19
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I just purchased the PI smart surge SSP30 portable. So when I am using my generator I should not use it? What about when I am using 20 amp instead of 30 and using one of those adaptors? Am excited to get it. Thanks for the help.
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Old 08-28-2015, 09:23 AM   #20
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i have what appears to be a single red wire and a single white wire going to my fuse box and then to my converter below...

or maybe its one red going to the fuse block and the white is feeding the convertor and then back into the front of the fuse lock along with the red.

now i'm confused...

there is no insulation (outer sheathing) on the 30 amp wiring and the wires are seperated.
one goes one way and the other goes in a seperate direction.

Should the EMS 30 amp system get wired into the convertor and the wires coming out of the convertor go directly into the fuse block.

or does it go to the fuse block.
on our other trailer it was straight forward - i cut the flexible cord and patched it in before the convertor with the 2 wires and ground only

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