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Old 08-14-2014, 04:36 PM   #11
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Location: Westland, Michigan
Posts: 253
Clark do you use an extension cord per adapter to plug into? If so check the gauge of extension cord you are using..was a simple fix for us.

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Old 08-15-2014, 08:10 AM   #12
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Harrison, Ohio
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Slide Blowing Fuses


Yes, we use a heavier extension cord 12 gauge. But, I had to replace a fuse before we could head home from our last camping trip. Glad I bought extras. Thanks for the reply.


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Old 08-15-2014, 08:34 AM   #13
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Location: MA
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Wow. Sounds like this is a common problem with all the posts that we are getting here. Something is off.

2015 HW296
2006 HW256 (previous pup)
2013 Chevy Tahoe
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Old 08-15-2014, 11:21 AM   #14
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Location: Tega Cay, SC
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Our 23IKSS door is hard to close as well. I do think it may have to do with the stabilizers and how many people are in the camper. Sometimes it closes just fine but more often than not we need to pull the door latch as we close the door to make it close more easily.

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Old 08-16-2014, 06:08 PM   #15
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On our 2014 23SS, when we did our walk through it seemed like our door was a bit tight and seemed to not open smoothly, I assumed that it was just because it was so new and needed to be worked in a little. After setting it up in the backyard and going in and out for a couple of weeks, it just didn't seem right. After further inspection we noticed that the screen door rubbed on the top part of the frame every time we opened and closed it. Not only that but the bottom 2 feet of the entry door seemed to bow outward and had about a 1/4" gap between the door and perimeter insulation tape.

I took the trailer in to the dealer so they could check it out and they are ordering a new entry door under warranty for us. They said it may take 3 or 4 weeks to get the parts from Indiana.
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Old 08-20-2014, 09:46 PM   #16
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Location: Northern KY
Posts: 1,902
awning/door problem solved


Also, when the door opens it slams into the awning brace.
I had this problem also. I fixed it by unscrewing the lower arm from the door bottom that limits the door opening and then closing the door closer to a 90 degree angle with the HTT side, then reattaching the plate on the door, so that it was further from the hinge. This limited the travel of the door. I did this because opening and closing the door with the awning deployed was a problem. I think this was an oversight during construction, because with accurately placing that arm plate on the door bottom, you keep problems from happening.

I thought the admonitions of not using the stabilizers to level the camper were all wet... I figured an inch or so of leveling capability would not hurt... I was wrong... I also worked into a door closing problem. I solved it by bringing up all stablizers, then rolling the HTT onto two stacked 2 x 8 boards on one side to get the side to side level. I used the tongue jack to get front to back level. I laid down 2 x 6 by 10 inch long boards and re-stablized the jacks on the boards, because I am on gravel in my driveway. I only just brought them into contact with the boards, then gave another very short burst on slow speed on the electric hand drill. So far for the past 3 weeks setup in the driveway everything has remainded level and the door closes properly.

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