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Old 10-26-2015, 09:14 AM   #11
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I've read a few posts on winterizing, and no one has mentioned removing
the water filter housing and dumping the liquid. I've removed the filters
permanently in my last three campers, so have not had to deal with them
during winterizing. Is this not an issue?

Also, having worked around air compressors most of my life, the thought
of pumping contaminated (usually oil, condensation, dust particles) air through
the lines serves no purpose if you are going to pump antifreeze through
the lines. When antifreeze is pumped through the lines, there is no real,
measurable mixing of it and water in the lines. Just open all faucets until
you see a good flow of pink color. Buy RV antifreeze when it is on sale, and
get several to keep on hand. Don't be afraid that you may be using too much
when winterizing. It is cheap insurance.
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Old 10-26-2015, 09:31 AM   #12
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After winterizing, as much antifreeze as possible should be drained from all
of the lines. Leaving antifreeze "topped off" in the system is a bad idea.
When all liquids are cooled, they expand. You should always give liquids
a needed space for expansion. Antifreeze flushing purpose is just to remove
all of the water from the system. Once done, there is no need for antifreeze
to remain in the system.
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Old 10-26-2015, 09:42 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by urocav2001 View Post
Yup hot water heater is empty and cleaned out as well as anode rod, everything is pumped back full of antifreeze, it actually seems way to easy for what dealers like to charge


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Yep, my friend here pays $95 every year to have his winterized...he's nuts!!
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Old 10-26-2015, 10:03 AM   #14
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Did you push the check valve for the city water inlet while pumping the antifreeze in? My city water hook up is above the pump and makes a nice trapped area for water to freeze. Pushing the check valve at the hook up connection forces the pink stuff back up that tube. Be careful you don't get sprayed when you do it.
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Old 10-26-2015, 10:57 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogevans View Post
After winterizing, as much antifreeze as possible should be drained from all
of the lines. Leaving antifreeze "topped off" in the system is a bad idea.
When all liquids are cooled, they expand. You should always give liquids
a needed space for expansion. Antifreeze flushing purpose is just to remove
all of the water from the system. Once done, there is no need for antifreeze
to remain in the system.
The whole point of the AF is that it doesn't expand. Leaving it in the lines all winter doesn't hurt anything and in fact, it's recommended to leave some in your toilet to keep the seal from drying out.
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Old 10-26-2015, 11:00 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dogevans View Post
I've read a few posts on winterizing, and no one has mentioned removing
the water filter housing and dumping the liquid. I've removed the filters
permanently in my last three campers, so have not had to deal with them
during winterizing. Is this not an issue?

Also, having worked around air compressors most of my life, the thought
of pumping contaminated (usually oil, condensation, dust particles) air through
the lines serves no purpose if you are going to pump antifreeze through
the lines. When antifreeze is pumped through the lines, there is no real,
measurable mixing of it and water in the lines. Just open all faucets until
you see a good flow of pink color. Buy RV antifreeze when it is on sale, and
get several to keep on hand. Don't be afraid that you may be using too much
when winterizing. It is cheap insurance.
Blowing the air through allows you to open all your drains and get as much water out of the system as possible first. I was surprised at how much water came out when I did it. If you just dump AF through your system without blowing the water out then you are severely diluting the AF and raising the freeze point.

If it doesn't mix with it, then you just have a bunch of water in your lines that could possibly freeze. Neither is a good situation.
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Old 10-26-2015, 11:11 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iwritecode View Post
The whole point of the AF is that it doesn't expand. Leaving it in the lines all winter doesn't hurt anything and in fact, it's recommended to leave some in your toilet to keep the seal from drying out.
X2 on this. I leave the anti-freeze in all the lines over the winter and this is our 12th season doing so. I also dump some anti-freeze in the kitchen and bathroom drains and also the drain for the washer/dryer hookup.

Don't forget to run anti-freeze to the washer faucets regardless of whether you use it or not and for those with an ice maker in their fridge anti-freeze should be run through that too.
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Old 10-26-2015, 11:15 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mtelkman View Post
Did you push the check valve for the city water inlet while pumping the antifreeze in? My city water hook up is above the pump and makes a nice trapped area for water to freeze. Pushing the check valve at the hook up connection forces the pink stuff back up that tube. Be careful you don't get sprayed when you do it.

No , but I blew that out with air so should be clear , I may put some antifreeze in there though just in case


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Old 10-26-2015, 01:38 PM   #19
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Another question. ..Do you have a sprayer on toilet? Shower sprayer hose?
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Old 10-26-2015, 04:11 PM   #20
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If you have never used the outside shower do you still need to winterize it?
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